FSRBIKER

I would say with no lift pull the motor is easier, I can easily get mine out in about 90 minutes. I hate working on my back if I don't have to, also replace your plugs while the engine is out! Do your self a HUGE, HUGE favor and look into this product first: http://www.smart-service.com/store-tranquil-sleeve-kit.html That site has a good description of the kit but I have seen it for under $115 for a non-turbo car elsewhere. I now will have to remove my engine to use this kit since my throw out bearing is squealing like a pig. I replaced the clutch 30,000 miles ago and if I only knew about this kit beforehand I would have spent the money without a doubt.

So for this last tank of gas I changed one habit in my driving and it returned a +3 MPG difference, in fact I don't ever recall getting over 25 MPG in my Outback. I have a 26 mile commute each way and there alot of lights plus there are plenty of downhill portions to work. All I did was to push the clutch in or take it out of gear and coast down hills, I will also pay attention to upcoming lights and do the same thing. I can tell when I should do it if I pay attention to the exhaust sound, I can hear the engine braking/slowing me down when the exhaust has a resonating sound. I still accelerate the same, which is I get on it for first and second and into third gear so my driving habits haven't really changed I just pay attention to the road conditions/exhaust sound. I also don't hold up traffic(I do drive fast most of the time) and only coast when I can. I find myself catching up to the cars in front of me now all the time so I now know how much the engine has been slowing my car down. Now for some new plugs and wires with hopefully even better results.

http://www.pulstarplug.com/ Anyone want to be the guinea pig?

My original engine had a blown head gasket, I did a HG job on it and the car still didn't run right. I bought an import motor with low miles and before I installed it I put new HG's, water pump, tensioners, timing belt, etc. The head actually has the opening for the EGR, it's just cast closed off. I measured the depth of the old one and put a drill stop on and then drilled and tapped it. I am sure I will never use that tap again so if someone wants to buy it cheap just let me know.

Mine was a import motor maybe that's the reason, it came with hydraulic lifters and no EGR. It was from an auto. Are you using regular, mid or premium gas?

I drilled and tapped the head, swapped the intake over from my old engine.

just an FYI: my 96 engine I installed in my 97 was non-EGR, I had to drill and tap for the pipe. I don't think this would be an issue in reverse though for the computer.

http://www.car-safety.org/latch.html Good info, they basically say it's easier to install a child seat with the Latch system. I think the third point down is interesting about choosing a center position safety belt installation over outer position Latch ones.

The tether is the strap that comes off the upper back part of the child seat(it's part of the child seat), it is another attachment point for the seat to the vehicle. In my Legacy Outback I attach these to the anchor points in my cargo area. On sedans they are located on the rear shelf near the speakers if so equipped, usually hidden under a plastic cap. FYI: Booster seats do not have tethers.

Look at the bottom of this page, I doubt there are predrilled anchor points though. I thought about welding anchors in a long time ago but i just use the seatbelts in my Outback. I am fanatical about my kids safety and I feel this was the best option even considering my welding abilities. If you find a Subaru kit please let us all know.

One review out of hundreds? Filter the results on Tire Rack for just Subaru's, everyone seems to love them. Now I have had them for about 25,000 miles and they are a great tire. Rain, snow or dry they are fantastic, my first Toyo's were better on dry roads but bad in the rain plus I now needs struts/springs so these will handle better when i replace those. As far as mileage goes I have consistently got 21-24 mpg in my 97 Legacy Outback no matter what tires I had.

What a great feeling to have a perfectly working braking system. I replaced the front rotors, calipers and pads, it turns out I had a stuck piston on each caliper that was causing the rumble when braking. The rotors and pads were worn bad. Of course it didn't go smoothly as two caliper support bracket bolts snapped, I had to ride my moutain bike to the auto parts store and replaced all 4 bolts with new ones. It was well worth the $300 in parts, now to replace the struts and springs.

I just replaced mine with a Subaru one, I did notice some oil seepage at the hoses so I am guessing it was not operating correctly. The engine has been using some oil lately as well, with no visible signs of leaks or smoke with someone driving behind me. I know CCR suspects a bad PCV in this case, hopefully they are correct.

If you bought it from a dealer bring it back to them to fix, in NJ they must sell you a car that can pass inspection unless you sign off on the car is sold as is.

I bought my exhaust parts from RockAuto.com, there is also a pretty decent price on EBAY for the muffler. BTW I used a cat setup that I bought with an engine from a 92 RS Impreza that fit perfect on my 97 Legacy Outback.

Yea they confirmed that they are sold seperately, what a pain in the rump roast if this was just the clips.

I really don't remember for sure, I had bought a new clutch, PP, pilot bearing and throw out bearing from 1stSubaru and i don't see a listing on their site for the clips unless it comes with the throw out bearing. I just talked to 1stSubaru and they don't think the clips would be an issue, with 200K on the trans they would more than likely say the snout kit might be the solution. Of course once I take it out I would buy new clips as well.

I just wish i knew about it when I had replaced the motor and installed the new clutch setup. The added cost would have been worth it, I found it online for around $115 from http://www.subaruparts.com/catalog/?section=759

That's possible, the car is just about to turn 200,000 miles. The $145 cost sucks though and I don't have the time/space to pull the engine or drop the trans right now.

About 6 months after I swapped engines and installed a complete clutch kit from 1stSubaru I started to get a throw out bearing whine occasionally. It eventually went away but now it's been back for the past 3 months full time( close to 30K miles since the swap now). Since it's warm out and the windows are down of course it really annoys me now. Anyone have a solution/trick without taking everything apart again? I did a quick search on the web and I found a couple of people that added a light spring to put some pressure on the fork on other vehicles. It really only takes the weight of my foot to get the noise to disappear so I am thinking I might try this unless there is another tip/idea. I know it might wear the clutch faster but it shouldn't be significant I would think. I am in the middle of restoring my 69 Bronco and 64.5 Mustang Convertible otherwise I'd pull it in one night and tear it apart, but that will have to wait for now. Any ideas????

Goodyear Assurance TripleTreds http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Assurance+TripleTred

That is so nice.

So have him tell you the codes or go to a local auto parts store that reads them for free.

Nobody is running an aftermarket muffler????

I've had a CEL twice in the last month and both times the car has started to run crappy. I will pull the code just for the hell of it but both times it went off when I got gas again....both times when it happened it was the day after I filled up at the same Shell station.