FSRBIKER
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Everything posted by FSRBIKER
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Ed the gas station next to the delaership is a rental car place I believe. They can also get you a loaner from a sister dealership, I have had Honda do this for me in the past. One question why a new block not not a full engine? Who knows what other issues are lurking out there because they screwed the repairs up?? Ask them how the main bearings went when they were fine before their repair work, there might be a blocked oil passage in the heads.
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I work for Jaguar at the North American Headquarters in the parts distribution center, you couldn't give me a used X-type...the later years are a bit better but we still ship out TONS of parts for these everyday. The new Jag XF is an amazing car though. Nipper: Jag/Land Rover are being sold, the deal will be announced by the first quarter of 2008.
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Hmmm, I have been tossing around the idea of looking for one in the near future but figured the power had to be worth having a car payment again. My brother in law had an STI that he did a bunch of work to, that car was amazing...it launched like my 67 Shelby but with no wheelspin and that convinced me that I wanted a Turbo Outback one day.
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I installed my Drawtite hitch on my 97 Legacy Outback and connected the Drawtite wiring harness to the pigtail on the drivers side rear light but was just wondering if there is an access hole(rubber plug) that you can snake the wires through easily to be near the hitch without tearing my car apart to locate one.
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Yes this is for my 97 Legacy Outback. I have tried to see if there is a stored code for the ABS light and there isn't, the only codes I had at the time were for a misfire. Would the inspection scanner be different that what I borrowed from my brother inlaw(he is a Lexus mechanic), it's not like the ones you can pick up from the hardware store as it looks like a small laptop. I haven't looked at removing the dash, is it just a few screws holding the panel in or clips? Thanks
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Is there a fuse or some wire I can disconnect to turn the dash ABS light off? I really don't miss the fact that my ABS isn't working but I have to go for inspection soon so I don't want any reason for them to fail me. The car has new brakes all around with new rotors in back and when I swap the rotors up front this summer I will probably replace any ABS parts I might need as well. Thanks!
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I cleaned all the connections and still nothing, there is 12V at the battery connection at the starter but I didn't check the solenoid hookup. I did try to jump the solenoid with the key on and still nothing, it is a pain to get a jumper cable in there and I might not have had the best connection but I tried this three times so I think the solenoid is dead. Where is the starter interlock relay and is the clutch switch just the pin that rests against the clutch pedal arm and comes out as you depress the clutch? I ordered a starter today but will check for 12V at the solenoid beforehand. Any tips on installing the starter, I didn't really look at the bolts last night.
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I was heading to work one day and my car cranked over slow but started and didn't think much of it since it was cold out. Later on when leaving work it wouldn't start at all so I rolled it downhill and jumped it in gear, got home and parked on a hill so i could get to work and try to figure out the problem. The next morning and the past few days there has been no problems...until today. Again it cranked slow when I left a store and then when I went to leave my house it wouldn't start at all. It doesn't crank at all, click and the headlights don't dim so it's not the battery. I am going to try jumping past the solenoid tomorrow but could it be the neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal? Any other suggestions? It's just odd to be the starter I think since it was fine, cranked slow and then the next time nothing, worked fine for a few days and then trouble again.