ocsike74

My opinion is that the problem is a fuse but after the replacing of it check the real cause of the problem in the way that i'll tell you: replace the fuse; check if you cannot smell an odour of burned wire;turn on one by one the consumers : lights, then wipers,and so on. Then at the moment that the fuse burns youll find the problematic part. Mantain 6 or 8 seconds between each swich.

If the simptom is that the puwer is loosen or the memories became volatile allways check the ground because these older cars somtime came in contact with the problem of oxidation what causes the bad contact, and therefore all that inconvenient. Hi!!!

I agree the opinion that is a bad ground contact between the engine and the cassis. Check if the main ground cables are in good condition especially the big one between the battery and the alternator. Then check if the cable between the cassis and alternator is optically OK. A bad contact you can suppose if the conector of the wire is oxidated. In fact the simptoms what you are tellin' about are specific of a bad ground contact. Don't give up!!!

Here in romania I followed the next rule: contacted the local subaru dealer who told me the adress of a person who is disassembling old subies and knows these old generation of soobies. Whwn I need something I'llm thalk with him and the problem is OK. As I can see from the Message board Miles Fox seems to be a person who can help you. Try him.

Here in romania we are thinking like this: do the best you can but with less money. So if you are thinking to the exhaust system, try to use some 50 mm internal diameter thin tube and if you have some basic skills and one acetylene welding system youcan do everything yourself. If you want to do something COOL try to use stainless steel tubes and rear and middle silencer. You will hear some kind of engine noise like people with Remus exhaust system. And you wount have problem with corrosion. In my 87' glw Coupe I changed the air filter element with another one who permittes to the engine to absorb much easily the air and the diferense is considerable.

There's a red lamp called STOP LAMP lighting when I'm putting on contact the engine on my 86" gl Coupe 4WD. After the engine's starting to work it's turnin" off. First I thought that It's the controller of the brake lamps, but it is'nt. What is that light?

I think that the synthetic oil gives the same viscosyty parameters like any other mineral oil but with the diferense that is prolonged the oilchange intervallum, and this sintetical oil will mantain the same parameters all the time of using instead of the mineral one wich in time goes to loose the initially parameters. What I suggest is to consult your dealer about what kind of oil he recommends for you and follow his instructions. But if you really want to use syntetic oil use it all the time because the tribotechnology tells that isn't wery fortunate to change from mineral to syntetic and then back to mineral. these goes to shorten your engines life.

So, maybe I'm not too lucky but about me the oil is made to protect the engine from inside not from the outer side . Finally can somebody give me a professional advise how could I change the sealants in the optimal way? I don't like to work in plus , just to change the selants not to smount all my car. Thank you previously.

Hi everybody! I'm owner of a 1.8 GL 4Wd Coupe '86. There's a problem and maybe someone kan give me an advise: how can I do in the best way the change of sealing elements at the front part of crankshaft, oilpump, because there's some leakin' there.