Andyjo

i went out to radio shack, got the cheapest CB they had (40 bucks), got myself a 5' fiberglass wound antenna, and a spring, bolted that puppy to my rack rail.. and away i went, it works great, never had a problem with any of mysetup. can't seem to find anypics that are online right now.. but i tucked the radio right under the stock radio.. edit: found the pics In the car: on the roof: i also made a 2nd mount for my thule bars (not seen here) for those large loads on the roof that don't allow the CB to be placed in that position..

Ohhh Zing!

Can you find out how much a full set of forester springs would be?

the big upside down U is for pushing... where as it's hard to push right on the bumper (in some situations i've gotten into).. it's also to protect the lights a little, and for a general "i'm gonna push you" look I'm guessing it's going to be about 60-70 lbs, and plans for a skidplate are also going to be added and the tubes are going to be so close to the existing frame, that the added bar isn't really killing my approch angle.

whoah! I've got some drawings, some steel, and a bunch of tools, i'm ready to go! woohoo! here are the general plans (i got bored in class today) there's alot more detailed & dimensioned drawings somewhere.. but.. these are the newest ones... here's what i have built up sofar (x2), the nuts are welded on... mounting pieces are cut, just need to bend some tube now!! The outside end of the mount is going to end up being a scackle mount, we're going to take out the center/middle of the tube, vice it, and weld it all up good & stuff, then punch a hole through the new end, and shove a shackle through there. It's going to look mean and be pretty hard core when we're done with it

http://subarugenuineparts.com/ if you want anyquestions Jamie is more than helpful (she's on this board, Subie Gal)

i sometimes get a death vibration when there's too much snow in there, just kick the fender a few times... or if it gets really bad, take out your crowbar and start chipping away.... another thing i've heard, is to spray PAM on the inside of the wheel well... no clue if it works.. but i've heard it might.

Hey, i MIGHT be heading back to NH that weekend... i also MIGHT be heading to NYC to work for the summer.... or staying in Po-dam... i should figure these things out.

If the bearings arn't bad.. don't worry about them, if you do up the axles yourself you're most likely looking at about 120-200 bucks in parts, including the core return.... all you need is to get that axle nut broken off, and the whole process can take something like 30 minutes if you know what you're doing.. Pop the nut off, smack the pin out, undo the controling arm, pop it off the ball joint, wrestle with the controling arm to get it to stay down.. ratchet strap the arm to the other side of the car... sometimes it helps to loosen the top strut bolts, pull the strut away, pop the axle out... and the installation is pretty much the same.... I'd recommend doing it yourself... you only get smarter by doing it, and you get a feeling of accomplishment when you're done

Well, i've heard that the 5MT has a standard 50/50 split (roughly) all the time.. where as the 4EAT has a 90/10 split, until the computer tells it not to have one... or if you just throw a switch on the duty solenoid C you can lock up the center clutch pack (read center diff mech.) and get a near 50/50 split. How it works... well there's a signal from the computer, and a pulse width modifyer in the computer, and it sents that signal to the solenoid which opens & closes, moving hydrolic fluid all around. I might actually be able to 'borrow' an occiliscope from the school to test out the signal one of these days other than that... what do you need to know?

I have somewhere special i could put one i have a collection of subaru logos/badges... one of my fav's is off an ol GL wagon though.. i polished it up, and made it shiney... shiney things make me happy :clap:

if you're looking to get rid of it for a regular one.. let me know.. i could use an I badge

Everyone talks about them, so what brand do YOU use? where do you get em.. how much do they cost...how to install them.. etc... ?

So on EJ cars, the vac. line under the air cleaner? the one that comes off all the time? AND... i know this seems like a dumb question, but you put the line back on when you're out of foam, right? then let it cool, and restart? AND... what would be so bad about leaving it in the crankcase for a longer period of time, other than idling?

i found that a new air filter (And a snorkle ) helped out my gas milage a bit. Even fully loaded (rear suspension riding pretty low) we were getting about.. 28mpg on the highway.. with the thule box on top. But now it's sucking again, so i'm gonna check my fuel filter, pull the sending unit and see if i can clean that up a bit.. maybe i'll grab some seafoam and slap it on the vacuum hoses... see what happens

Is it an auto or manual? with my auto, the little pin the pushes the 'parking position switch' fell out, when that switch is opened, it lets you take the key out, if it's closed you can't get the key out. (if you can shift w/o pushing the button, this is your problem) SO, what you do, take out the center consoul stuff, get down to where the shifter is, and look in, and you'll see a noched out thing, where the pin slides.., keeps it from going into 2nd, or reverse, etc, without pushing that button. So what you do, is grab the pin (about 1.5" long, maybe 1/8" dia), it will be trying to fall down into the carpet or something bad like that, then what you're going to want to do is figure out what position it fits in the shifter best (It's got some triangleage to it) and then pull it out, slap some super glue on it, shove it back in, and then re-assemble your car. I did it w/o the super glue the 1st time.. and it vibrated itself out again. It's pretty greasy in there, so you might have to clean it up a little to get the glue to stick.

3.9 in the 97 OBS

my 2.2L was loose... tightend em right up, threw it back in, and away i went. no problems since.. well.. problems with leaking oul

don't give him ideas like that!! he'll do it!!

wiring for the lights up top. i ran mine in the same place... except i used my trusty hammer to make the trim fit back in place ALSO, on that list you can't forget the welder... because zipties & gorilla glue can only hold so much....

Mine does the same thing, i just ignore it usually... there's a post somewhere about someone opening up their valve covers, and cleaning out the rockers... i've also heard that some people have had some luck with seafoam... when the time comes for my next oil change i'm going to try dumping some seafoam in the oil and seeing if it'll clear things up... but i doubt it will. I've also read that the spacing could be a little bit off, causing the noise... and yes, it is a very annoying noise isn't it? it's louder than my exhaust!! (even w/ cracked headers )

lol, good show, one of the people i live with owns a blazer, and he thinks he's so badass with his 29" tires... i've showed him up many a time, the funny thing is, he always ends up going back alone to prove to himself that he can do what i've done with my impreza

ceramic pads will disipate the heat faster... same amount... and they resist the effect of 'fade' a bit better... i've got some lab data on that if you'd like to see

i doubt seafoam is going to stop the leak.... and 2 quarts a week??! if you're burning that much.. something's messed up... sure there isn't something leaking under the car? maybe onto the headers, where it gets burnt off? My oilpump rattled it self loose (the screws) we tightened those up and it ran like a champ after that...

So i went through with it again (4th time), i got the pipes back from CA a while ago, and if finnally went through with throwing them on today, ended up having to buy a titanuim 1/2" drill bit (the stud holes are too small...), ripped right through the stainess plates, mauhahaha, anyhow, after that they snapped right on there, a little silicon, everywhere and away we went. I love the extra power of these things, and they haven't cracked! (Yet...) i'm giving them till the end of the week before the crack again.. But this time if they do, we're going to weld the piss out of them... maybe add some brackets to re-distribute the stress loads... anyhow, just thought i'd brag about my +5hp... lol.. or something like that.