Ferret54

IIRC this compressor uses a SWASH plate ( VARIABLE DISPLACEMENT, CONSTANT PRESSURE pumps ). There is no clutch. They move the angle of the swash plate to increase or decrease the freon pressure/flow thru the condenser or evaporator. Many newer cars are using this system.

I have had 2 timing belts break. a 98 DOHC Forester we bought for our daughter in college. On way from sale from owner, engine died. Got home and disassembled. Yeah broken belt. I did plan to take it apart for head gaskets, but this had me send them out for resurfacing and 6 valves. All on drivers side head. After that repair, she then had that for 6 more trouble free years. Also MY04 Forester, Going on interstate, engine just died. No loud sounds, dashboard just kit up. I had just replaced the timing belt about 20K earlier with about 130K on odometer. Had it towed home ( yes AAA and was 110 miles from home, slight charge ). similar to 98 .... 4 bent valves, all on drivers side again. Reason I THINK for failure, 5 speed has 'keeper' above crank sprocket, and I DO know SOMEONE made the clearance a little too tight thinking it would prevent it from jumping BETTER is car was pushed backward in gear. TOUGH LESSON TO LEARN. In any case, sent out heads for resurfacing and valve replacement. After rebuild I drove until 260K and then sold it. My $.02 and experiences. If it's a good car, and worth the $$$ to invest, I would. If not, look for a replacement and find someone mechanical to sell this to.

Possibly Neutral Switch. Had them go intermittent or bad, but my 5 speeds were NOT drive by wire, so would call out idle control solenoid. Just a thought since we can't see, touch or hear your car.

Is it a 5 speed? If so the Keeper above the crank shaft may have been mis adjusted ( saw this more than once ). If it was other than a Subaru belt, YES I have seen those fail also. Quite a few years ago even Gates went to a Cheap Thinner belt. The original coming off, even worn, felt sturdier than the Gates and others new going on. Had seen about a half dozen with broken belts. Sent heads out for valve replacement, Put back together with Subaru Water pump, pullies and belt and ran for MANY more miles.

It would be easier to ADD a relay, SPST. If you try to energize the installed relay, you will have to isolate it with a pair of diodes to avoid turning on other electrical items when you open the door. I have done similar with MANY of my Subaru's so I can operate the windows in ACC instead of just the ON key position. Connect the contact points to an ALWAYS on power source like the power window fuse or Circuit breaker, the other side to the power feed wire going to the power window switch. Then attach one side of the coil to your ALWAYS on you just used on the contact point and attach the other side of the coil to the door switch which will ground and energize the relay when the door is opened. This way there is NO feedback of power to any other devices when you open the door. These are the relays I used ....... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KH17YKU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As far as I researched and newer systems control many functions, HVAC, and other options that they did away with the physical buttons now controlling via CAN bus. MAYBE 2016,17 or 18 depending on the model you can upgrade. For this I would go to Crutchfield and see what they suggest. Out son had a 2008 Lexus IS and wanted a radio with more OOMPH .... but the factory radio did a lot more and was not recommended to be replaced.

Of the 13 Subaru's i've owned, 8 were EJxxx engines. Mostly 5 speeds. I can't deny I replaced Head gaskets on every one of those. As well as Timing belts, water pumps, separated damper pulley etc. Still have a factory wrench to hold the damper pulley for removal. And replacing Clutches, broken clutch forks and Snout Kits for worn transmissions. Being a mechanic since my teens and soon to be 70, Labor was always cheap. I also understand why people stayed away from them because they were NOT mechanically inclined and these repairs become expensive very quickly. For this reason I also helped many neighbors who could not afford dealer or garage repairs. I REALLY Love my Subarus. They always started and got me through some bad weather and driving conditions. But recent purchases ( in the last 10 years ) brought the FB motor and CVT to ALL Subarus. And I was just relaying our experiences with these newer Subarus. But like politics, religion, oil discussions etc, to each their own. Ask 10 people and you will get 10 different answers. And everyone IS correct ...... for them.

Our daughter has the power tailgate on her 2016 because it's a Touring model. I personally don't like it. On the 2023 models it's standard on the Limited and Touring models. Also on the newer models, and update firmware 11" screens, when you start the car, the screen comes up with options including to DISABLE Start/Stop mode. Then goes to the regular 3 information display sections ( Top is widgets you pick like temp, date, MPG, miles to empty etc, Center is infotainment information including Navigation if ordered, music, apple carplay etc, and bottom is HVAC including dual zone temps etc ) there are buttons for individual temps, Defrost etc. Also some respond to voice commands to keep your eyes on the road. The Crosstrek we have on order does not offer power tailgate ( I'm glad, daughters drives me NUTS ), and I plan to turn off a lot of eyesight options ( can't turn off Forward Collision ) and enable each as I MAY get used to them. Or NOT AT ALL as my wife said when she drives the car,

I know others here don't like the FB engine or CVT, but our family has had good service from them. MY14 Impreza currently at 185K, other than replacing all 4 wheel bearings, has been trouble free. Our daughter has a 2016 Forester at 105K also trouble free. Currently have a 2024 Crosstrek on order, our 14th Subaru ..... I know first year for a new model .... but everything on it is NOT new to Subaru, but new to the Crosstrek, which never had that option before. Only NEW thing is on all 2024 and up Subaru's, Gen 4 Eyesight. Of Those 14.we had 2 that were not up to expectations. A 2002 Forester 5 speed, ate 8 front Oxygen sensors in the 1st year. It would backfire on deceleration and POP ..... CEL .... another Oxygen sensor. Subaru couldn't fix, so they gave me a deal on a 2004 Forester ..... Had that 10 trouble free years. Other was 2011 Outback, Our daughter was in Construction single lane in Pa during Covid 2020, Blew top off radiator. She couldn't pull over ( no place to and next exit 4 or 5 miles down the road. Engine was destroyed, more importantly she was OK. Other 11 gave us great service .... which is why I have bought Subaru's since 1978. My opinion and experiences ...... NEXT poster

Same as Intermotor HVAC Relay RY56 ...... and they are available as a replacement part.

When we had this code on our daughters 2001 Outback ( 2.5L ), it was 10 years old. No exhaust leaks. Tried rear Oxygen sensor, still P0420. So I purchased an extender. Had to drill out the center for the Oxygen sensor to fit, then installed it. Takes rear sensor out of the flow. No more P0420. It was still on the car when we sold it 2 years later.

Cables..... Manual had cables for Temp and Function ( Def, Dash, floor ). Auto had 2 14 or 16 pin connectors as well as motors for Temp and Function. Also blower motor on Manual had blower resistor, The Auto had Blower with speed control electronics on the base of the motor. Also different connectors. Edit... As I think of it, The X model was manual controls, The XS had Auto Controls. I had both ..... long ago

Probably a bad ( dead battery ) in one or more of your TPMS sensors in the tires. you need a TPMS tool to diagnose and bead breaker if you want to do your own repair. Or you can go to any tire store and have them do it for you. Cheaper than the dealer, I have replaced 2 in MY14 Impreza to date. Both last year. Just did oil change 172,500 on it today.

Also check for 14.2 volts at battery with engine running .... Could be alternator diode(s0 gone bad.

There are 2 parts to that actuator. The motor that moves the door, and a variable resistor to feed back how open the acutator is. Since you tried another panel ( controller ) and the motor moves when you apply power, then I would still replace the actuator as I suspect the variable resistor inside is defective. It's simply a slider on a carbon path that does wear out over time. Replaced many of these on all different makes of vehicles. They all seem to work the same, just with different controllers or panels.