Espey16

Awesome, thank you. I bought a drill press a year ago just for this job.

Hey everyone. I'm looking to do my own 6 lug conversion. I need to drill the holes so the lug nuts don't spin obviously. Does anyone know what size drill bit I need to buy so the splines on the studs bite into the hubs? 9/16" end wrench will fit over the stud itself, 14mm won't, but I feel like the stud could spin in the hole with that size.

Awesome, thank you. I have a scanner with a live data function, I just don't really know how to use it except to check for dtcs

I'm dropping the exhaust again because the header vibrates on the sway bar. That's why I'm curious about the orientation of the wires. I don't know the brand of the header, I'm just gonna "massage" it a little with a ball pien hammer. Can't go grinding on the sway bar haha.

Hey guys, I'm back with another question about this car. I swapped the lift, and the header over from a 99 same car i had but got rid of. Like an idiot, I didn't disconnect the pre cat o2 sensor, and when I dropped the exhaust to remove the manifold to cat bolts, I forgot to disconnect the o2 sensor. The wires pulled out from the male connector, but the terminals stayed connected. I plugged them in the way I thought they were supposed to be oriented and I haven't had a cel. I know the male end of the connection is supposed to be there to prevent moisture. My question is (till I get a new sensor) are the 2 white wires supposed to go into a specific spot, or are they interchangeable? Thank you for any help, I appreciate you guys.

How would I find out what size trailing arm spacers I need for the lift i have? I have an ADF lift on my 98 Legacy Outback, I believe it's 2" (I'm not the original purchaser of the lift). Should I just measure the gap between the front of the rear tire and the fender, then compare it with the rear of the tire?

Hi guys. I'm sure I'm not the only one with this problem. Delay mode stops working after a few wipes. Low and high work fine. Do I need to replace the whole switch arm in the column, or can I fix the one I already have?

I can probably remove the pipe and clean it up with some sand paper, but the hose that goes to the tank is my main concern.

My car is leaking fuel while filling. I just cleaned 35 years worth or dirt away from the hose and pipe and saw the pipe is rusted pretty good. Does anyone know where to find the parts to fix this? Rock auto doesn't have anything, and I can't find anything at the auto parts stores.

Hey guys, I apologize for no updates yet. I've been busy with a couple projects around the house and haven't had a chance to get to the car. I appreciate the replies and information you've given.

Yeah, it's spfi

I replaced the CTS back before I found out the MAF was faulty, it's the one with the green plug. And the IAC was cleaned out when IL pulled the engine to reseal it and do the clutch swap. I'll check both of those again though this weekend.

Ok, I didn't think WD would work. I'll check that out in a little bit.

Just spray some starting fluid around the motor while it's running?

I was thinking of throwing my timing light back on it to make sure that's perfect, and also re calibrating my TPS. I just did that recently though.

Hey guys I'm back. My 89 GL used to not idle at all upon cold start. After finally replacing the MAF it would idle. It would idle high upon startup then drop down to normal once the car was warm. I recently pulled the engine to replace the clutch among other things, but now it doesn't idle high anymore on a cold start. I did the work in September if I remember correctly, and I've been daily driving it since. It runs well just won't warm up in the mornings. Is there anything you can think of that maybe I missed or need to replace?

Ok, that's unfortunate. I'll try to check for bad connections and or relay. Thank you for the replies.

The other day out of nowhere, the horn on my 89 GL just started going off. Anyone else have this issue? I had an 82 GL sedan that did this once too.

https://www.autozone.com/engine-management/throttle-position-sensor-tps/p/duralast-throttle-position-sensor-tps-tps4085/229608_0_0 This is the sensor I have on the car now. It went up about $100 since I bought it.

I have a link to it in one of my previous posts. I'm not 100% sure it's under this user name or espey_16.

It's the same unit, it just has a pigtail attached to it. I had to hardwire it in to the harness.

I still need to figure out how to calibrate the throttle position sensor (it's not the stock one) but other than that she runs and drives fine.

Or just file it under I actually have a nice vehicle that I'd like to keep the idiot lights off of. You can live with it, I don't want to.

I want to say the stock tire pressure was at about 35 psi. The tires I have on the car now are truck tires. I'm not too concerned about a blow out or what not. I just don't like having a bright orange light on the dash that says my tires aren't happy based on stock specs. I'd rather not pull the gauge cluster just to remove a bulb, and I don't really care to use electrical tape to cover it up.

I don't know what the stock tires were at honestly. I pumped the tires up because the went a little low. And my fuel mileage was garbage. I was getting 21mpgs before now I'm getting about 25.