Espey16

Yeah, the mufflers just hang real low compared to stock.

Sorry, I just found your reply. I haven't noticed any rubbing at all. I sent the wheel spacers I bought back because I didn't need them. The offset was +38mm.

I was kind of thinkinking something like that.

I'm not a worrier, I just don't know if any wiring would be angry about getting wet. I live in Washington so we get a decent amount of rain, and occasionally a good amount of snow.

Hey guys. I'd like to put an XT hood on my 11 Forester. Should I be worried about rain or snow getting in through it?

Longer hangers did the trick. I think it looks kinda dumb now, but I'd rather do that than put axles in it constantly. The dealership doesn't offer a boot kit so I was gonna have to buy an axle for $618, and the nut for another $8. Luckily I found one at the junk yard for $45.

Yeah, it was the 2"f, 2&3/8"r with multi link spacers set they offer. There's a hanger on the sub frame before the y pipe, then 2 on each muffler. It dropped the subframe down onto the y pipe.

Ok, I wasn't sure if I could say the brand name on here or not. It's an ADF lift.

Only problem I see, is the hanger coming from the y pipe to the subframe is up above the hanger on the subframe. Shouldn't it hang below the subframe? This would be so much easier to describe if I could post pics lol.

I put a piece of 1/8" steel between the subframe and the y pipe (temporary) and that gave the axle enough clearance where the boot clamp won't hit anymore. I might see about getting slightly longer hangers for the mufflers when I get a new clamp and see if that drops it down sufficiently.

I read a post saying to disconnect the front hanger on each muffler and that would drop the exhaust down far enough where it won't rub, but that made no difference in my case.

I lifted my 2011 forester Sunday, 2" up front and 2 3/8" in the rear. When I finished installing everything I drove it around in front of my house down and back a few times to get the suspension to settle out. Yesterday when I got home I wanted to re-torque the hardware just to make sure I didn't miss anything, and noticed the driver rear cv was rubbing on the exhaust. The diff side boot clamp came off and flung axle grease everywhere. Looks like I'm not the only one to experience this, but from what I've read I can't find a fix for it other than modifying the exhaust. Have any of you had this issue and resolved it without going to an exhaust shop?

There's nothing in it.

At the moment I'm just going to get rid of everything under the hood and cap off the lines just to clean it up.

I think it will work with my water pump, I just got a driver cam tower off the car I got the brackets from and it's power steering and water pump have double pulleys too.

I was at the junk yard a few weeks ago and found a non ac Loyale, so I grabbed the alternator brackets and hardware. I'm in the process of replacing timing belts on my car so I figured now would be a good time to get rid of the ac. My question is, will the non ac brackets work with the water pump on my car? Or will I have to buy a water pump for a non ac car because of the shaft size?

I didn't really think about going down in rim size, I just figured that was what it came with. Looking back, I wish I would've gotten the smallest possible rim because I like having more sidewall. I ended up going with 225/60/19 open country 3s.

I'm also curious about how much I'm gonna have to beat my inner fenders, and if I'm gonna need wheel spacers or not.

Hey guys. I bought a 2" lift for my 2011 forester last week, and purchased wheels for it yesterday. The tire chart on the manufacturer's website states 225/65/16, and 215/70/16 will work, but I bought 17" wheels. Could someone point me in the right direction for the same size tire but 17" rim?

Sorry, I can't post pics off my phone.

I marked the amount of rotation on the old socket with a welding marker, then trimmed the rotation stop tab off the new socket and marked it where it fits in. It will twist in now and the marks line up. Now I just need to wire it up .

So the socket for the Loyale on Rockauto is just a little different. There are 3 alignment tabs on it just like the socket on my GL, 1 big, a small one, then a medium one. The big and medium ones are what lock the socket into the housing. The small one on the Loyale socket is clocked different than the one on my GL. The small tab is like a rotation stop or whatever so you don't twist it too far. Well anyway long story short, the replacement for the Loyale will fit in it just won't rotate to lock in.

I never thought of that, thats a good idea

Yeah, I took my buddy down to Portland a few years ago to get a white GL10 with the EJ22 swap and it was nuts. My SH forester couldn't keep up.

the cts was one of the first things I replaced, $70 later and I have a lifetime warranty on it now.