TheBrian

Have it read. It could be nothing, it could be something minor that's increasing your emissions, it could be impacting your gas mileage. There's a small chance it's a problem that's affecting the longevity of other parts. In any case, you're better off at least knowing what it is, even if you decide to do nothing about it.

At 10 years and 125kmi, my exhaust still looks good, though I had a flange rust out on me (in an easily reparable manner). I only wish they made the body out of what they made the exhaust from. I have rust patches at just about every point where the three plastic under-rack roof guards attach to the roof. Rust just behind one rear wheel. Rusty engine crossmember. Rusty oil pan. Rusting chips and dents on the hood. I want a DeLorean! But one with a Subaru engine.

Yes, bad gas can be detected by your car's computer as either a misfire on random cylinders or as running too lean. But if it's running fine, the gas may not have been bad enough to set off the code. There are over a hundred other possible causes of a CEL. Get the code read.

Cheap parts. Arvin mufflers. I would recommend a local, independent mechanic over any dealership or chain. http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2003/04/03/158643.html

You can't just go replacing every sensor in the car every time a MIL comes on. Take it to AutoZone or Advance where they'll retrieve the stored troublecode for free. </rant> I would like to second what Frag said. An exhaust leak before the rear O2 sensor is likely to cause the "catalytic converter performance below spec" code. Flange repair / replacement is your best bet. Also you can replace the gasket with a new one.

AWD costs you about 3mpg (from cars101.com). In the Legacy, that works out to you spending about $900 per year on gas, versus $800 for a 2WD. Living with it is cheaper than doing anything about it. I've read about people welding shut the center differential to convert their AWD Subaru to 2WD. Try a search here or on NASIOC. You'd need to plug the hole in the rear of the tranny, and the wheel bearings must not be loaded without CV axle ends in them. Converting to FWD would add a little pep, too, as you could remove probably 150lbs of rotating mass.

Now that's badgeworthy. 100k? Much less so. I bet about a quarter of the cars on the road, including American and even Korean cars, have over 100k.

'scuse the slight topic drift, but I thought Legacies came equipped with stainless mufflers. I appear to have the original exhaust (9.5 years old), which has a stainless muffler stamped SUBARU. 96 Brighton (base model), California emissions. Does anyone have a non-stainless, SUBARU muffler?

Beck-Arnley offers two timing belts for my 2.2L SOHC. A Fed-spec "neoprene", and a Cal-spec "highly saturated nitrile". I'm no rubber engineer, so I can't tell you whether you can expect a significantly longer service interval with the California belt. But they are different belts, at least in Beck-Arnley.

I just read this and went out and measured the electrical resistance of my tire. It's off the chart, and my meter goes well into the megaohms. Sorry, I'm going to have to disagree with the chumps.

I don't like the direction they've taken the brand, but I have to say the new looks suit their new plans. Of course, I'd prefer if they brought back the Loyale, in wagon and hatch form. Now that's easy to look at.

If you can get a thin loop of wire in from the side, and pull on it while you push on the button, you should be able to pull out the cupholders. Then remove the two screws on either side, remove the cupholder assembly, disassemble, clean, and reinstall.

Oh yes they can, with the P-brake on. Well, smoke at all four wheels, at least.

Oh, and I think you should try it with the stock water pump and a cooler thermostat first. It might be powerful enough. If it's not, you'll need a pump capable of higher pressure, not so much higher flow. A cooler thermostat would allow more flow at a given temperature, up until the thermostat is open wide. After which point, the warmer thermostat doesn't increase flow. The thermostat opening temp. does not affect max. flow.

How about an electric water pump off an '06 BMW I6 or a newer Prius? Or maybe you'd have better luck finding a universal aftermarket 12V water pump.

Thank you for all of your input. The problem is that I'm having a hard time getting the crank pulley bolt loose. I guess I'll try to find a bigger hammer and try again. If that fails, maybe I'll use the controversial "starter method".

An exhaust flange rusted out on me, so I had basically an open pipe ending behind the rear cat yesterday. Maybe it was just trepidation at pressing the LOUD pedal, but it seemed that the car produced very little power below 2250RPM, versus its usual production of adequate power from 1750 on up. Unfortuantely, my experience is no scientific study of exhaust backpressure (I'd love to dyno test an exhaust with a variable restrictor plate). An anecdote is all I offer. That, and advice: If an exhaust flange rusts out, replace it with a split flange, such as they have at AutoZone. Installation is very easy. I'd rather have stainless hardware, but AZ was the only place open on Mermorial Day.

That's an awesome gauge pod. Does the turbo light come on at a set rev count, or a certain manifold pressure? Does the driveline drawing in the middle light up or do anything besides notify you that your car rocks? And congrats on your mileage.

The crankshaft pulley doesn't strictly need to come off to replace the timing belt, does it? From the looks of this schematic, I should be able to split the plastic timing belt cover down the middle, remove the center tensioner and idler, and I'd be in. Can anyone who's actually done a timing belt job on a 2.2L SOHC comment on whether it would be possible, whether I could still replace the oil pump seals, and whether removing the outer timing belt cover in pieces would be bad?

Welcome to the board. The only new-gen Subaru repair manual Haynes makes is for the Legacy, '90 to '98. The Forester is based on the Impreza platform, which is similar to the Legacy, but there are differences. The 2.5L engine, and everything bolted to it, is covered in detail. The Haynes would be a good, cheap, handy reference, though not 100% accurate when it comes to your car. Enjoy your new Subaru!

I'm just a n00b when it comes to cars, but here's my hunch. I find the simultaneous failure of all three fuel injectors unlikely. Anyway, I'd test for battery voltage at the fuel injector harness while cranking the engine. If you don't have it (i.e. computer not firing fuel injectors), I'd see about testing your cam/crankshaft sensors. Probably with them on the engine. I'm rooting for you. Justies are cool cars, and I don't see enough of them around.

It sounds like a problem with the shift linkage, if N = R, D =N. Do you have lights on the dash telling you what gear the transmission's computer thinks you've selected? Either way, I'd inspect the linkage.

2.1psi. Why do car manufacturers do this? Are they saying it's safe to run the engine with 2.2psi of oil pressure?

I'd actually recommend AutoZone. Get a Bosch (is OE) sensor from them if they have it in stock, and borrow their O2 sensor wrench for free. Then take it back to them and have them clear the code.

I have a steering column with adjustable height, so I just had to set it to the lowest position. Then remove four screws retaining the black plastic trim piece around the cluster, then remove four screws retaining the cluster. Do yourself a favor and remove the clear plastic thing that keeps dust off of the gauges before trying to clear the steering wheel. It takes under half an hour.