TheBrian

Regarding Iceland: Is Iceland party to the Kyoto Protocol? EU emissions regulations? I understand they have a huge number of diesel fishing boats per capita, hence huge emissions per capita. That and a lot of energy-hungry aluminium production. They will have to work very hard at being green to bring per capita emissions to levels like they have in more populus European countries. Iceland is definately using some interesting technology. We'll see how it works out.

As it stands, burning fossil fuel is the cheapest way to generate electricty in America. Accordingly, it is the most popular method. A hydrogen car has zero harmful tailpipe emissions, true, but the car causes emissions from fossil-fuel burning power plants for every mile it drives. Want to reduce this country's CO2 emission and fossil fuel consumption? Owning a hydrogen car won't help. Installing a windmill in your yard will help a bit. But major reduction in our CO2 emission requires political action. Higher taxes on fossil fuels would make hydro, nuke, and alternative energies more attractive and more common. It would also encourage people to drive more efficient cars. In addition to making fossil fuels more expensive, we should make other power sources cheaper. We need a long-term solution to the nuclear waste problem. Until burning coal ceases to be the cheapest method of generating electricity, an electricty-consuming, zero-emissions vehicle, whether running on rechargable batteries or hydrogen fuel cells or whatever, is not nearly as environmentally friendly as it may appear.

This isn't Subaru-specific, but I thought I'd ask it here, where the gearheads are. Besides, it was an old-gen thread that got me thinking about this. The alternator spins at different speeds based on how fast the engine is spinning. How do Subaru engineers cope with that? Does it produce a whole lot more power at high speeds than low ones? What happens when the alternator doesn't need to produce much power, but it's spinning fast anyway? How much of the alternator's power output is used by the ignition system, which obviously uses more power at higher revs?

Will the tranny off a car with a 2.0 or a 2.2 bolt up to an EJ25?

I had CarQuest mix me up a spray can of '96 Subaru Green. I'm sure they could do the same for '86 Subaru colors.

Absolutely the rear seats. .75gal of washer fluid (which'll also reduce sloshing.) Rear floor mats. Spare tire. Roof rack. Speakers. A/C system. Carpet. Rear driveshaft, diff, CV axles. Look at every single thing in the car and ask yourself "What percent of the car's mass is this object here, and can I live without it?". But once you remove the big items like rear seats, you're looking at considerable cost / loss of functionality for minimal go-fast gains.

It says right on the bottle, "100% pure petroleum". From the MSDS: 40-60% Pale Oil 25-35% Naphtha 10-20% IPA (Isopropal Alcohol, which, AFAIK, is not petroleum.) The product claims many uses, most of which involve breaking down carbon and rust buildups. Naphtha and IPA are found in other products which do the same. It looks like it's simply high-energy petroleum distillate, functioning by absorbing carbon deposits.

The bulbs burn out. My local Subaru dealer stocks them, and they wanted $11 for the three bulbs.Open the cupholder, unscrew the screws on its right and left side. Pry out the trim piece with the hazard lights and two vents on it. The heater controls can now be unplugged and unscrewed. In addition to three wires plugging in to the controls, there's a cable attached to the temperature slider. Go under the dash by the passenger's left foot and make a mental note of how the cable is held in place. Detach it, and the heater controls are free. The replacement bulbs screw in place with about a quarter-turn. Maybe 1/8 turn.

:-/... I'd like to see $4.33/gal in gas taxes here. Then all the people driving their Dodge Ram 3/4 ton macho trucks to work every day at 15mpg would consider switching to a more reasonable car. Without so many Ford Explorers on the road, it would be safe to drive a 2000lb hatchback. Subaru would bring back the Justy. Hello, 50mpg!

Now I see it. Lunchbox? Weapon / contraband locker? Those are my guesses unless you've owned the car since it was new or there are any electrical lines or any hoses attached to it. Take it apart, see what's inside!

All I see is the first 128KB of a large photo.

I was hoping someone had already done this...I've seen that done, and posted to a Subaru forum. Either here or on NASIOC. It weighed in at 250lbs, and that included the a steel plate placed on the scale, and a few links of the chain he was lifting it with.

They do.

The EJ22 would need to bring its engine control computer and all of its spaghetti with it. It may well need a more powerful fuel pump than the 1.8L SPFI. Whether the 1.8's AT will mate to the EJ22, or the EJ22 will make too much power for your driveline, or the EJ22 will fit between the strut towers, or the EJ22's crossmember will bolt in place, or where you'll keep your spare tire, I can not say. I seriously doubt it will be simple.

Wash the engine (perhaps with one of those engine degreaser products, but soap, water, and elbow grease have always worked for me) and see where it leaks. If it's getting on the timing belt, yep, I'd re-seal it. I might have a leaky driver's side valve cover (either that or poor aim with an oil bottle, time will tell), but the only place mine's ever dripped on to the driveway from is the oil drain plug. Which is not to say yours isn't leaking from one or more of the seals your mechanic mentioned. Does your water pump *need* changing? Do your valve covers leak? Also, I'd get a second opinion before giving a thousand dollars to a mechanic.

Regarding the ValuCraft: you save $20, but how much would you be willing to pay to not have to do the job twice? (Multiply the cost of doing the job again by the likelyhood of having to for CCT and ValuCraft.) If it were me, I'd go for the lifetime supply of reman axles.

$20k is no econobox. $13.6k gets you a FWD Toyota Matrix wagon. Now that's an econobox. $16.8k for the AWD version with the bells and whistles. And if you're fortunate enough to live in Canada, they'll sell you a compact hatchback. That's something Subaru won't do.

Don't forget that Advance Auto Parts offers the same service for free, too. (I mention this because AutoZone has sold me crappy Fenco products too many times. No more Fenco in my car!) A code scanner retails for $80, so it really makes sense for auto parts stores to make them available.

I've heard this before. Just how expensive are we talking? Let me put it this way: ABS adds how much to the cost of a new car?I haven't been able to find ABS pumps in any auto parts stores.

AutoZone sells Bosch (and AZ house branded) plug wires with lifetime warranties. It's more like a lifetime supply of plug wires than a statement that the wires will last a lifetime. Regardless, they get the job done, and cost-effectively.

I've checked a few times, and my gas tank accepts very nearly 51 L of fuel when the idiot light has just come on. Subaru says I've got a 60L tank, and that the light comes on when 9L remain. So I say with confidence that my idiot light is very accurate. Though the fuel gauge is one pip below E at that point. My guess is that the idiot light would come on if you ran it down farther.

I'm concerned about the Felpro name. I know they've had a reputation as good gaskets, but they were recently acquired (along with Champion, Anco, Wagner, and a few others) by Federal-Mogul, who are bankrupt. One can hope they aren't desperate enough to reduce production costs at the expense of quality.

There have been a few great improvements in cars in the past 20 years: fuel injection, aerodynamic bodies, and variable valve timing. If Subaru made a new Justy (and not a Hungarian-made Suzuki Justy), I'd buy one. Especially if it could tow 700 lbs. A 2-door hatchback with four seats and a trailer could be your only car. Effecient for commuting, and a capable touring wagon.

It sounds like a solid car, and I'm sure you'd enjoy it if you bought it.However, five-year loans are not fun. I'd say it's reasonable to expect over 100k miles of service without spending much on repairs. However, past that mark, some components will begin to show their age, and you'll have some repair bills to deal with. My advice, look at a 5 year old Subaru with two previous owners and 60k miles. See if you can afford that without the risk of ending up upside down (owing more than the car is worth).

It's true that it'll take more gas when cold. However, in closed-loop mode, rather than just making generous guesses as to how much fuel is required, it would compute exactly how much is needed. What I don't have any idea about is just how much fuel would be saved. Does anyone here have a Fuel-Air Gauge? If so, please tell me how long it takes for your O2 sensor to heat up. If not, I'll have to make a gauge out of a few feet of wire and a voltmeter.