TheBrian

I'd like to tack on a question here. Legacy777, did you have to deal with ABS? The ABS controller is a different part number for MT and AT. I was wondering what, if any, compatibility there is between the two. Also why would ABS care what flavor transmission you have?

Yes, they must have an issue with the new headlamp. I've seen it, too. I do hope the penny-pinchers at GM haven't penetrated FHI. I also hope that FHI can continue making great cars, while surving in the marketplace. The only possible causes I can think of are: Factory uses bulbs with a 1%+ latent defect rate. i.e. cheap bulbs Headlamp assy transmits excessive vibration to bulbs. Do the '05's appear to have adequate cushioning?

If your '91 exhaust is like my '96 exhaust, cut 'em off. Threaded fasteners on an old exhaust are a lost cause. I replaced my rusted out flange with a split flange. Of course, that's not an option either if your flange is integrated, or if the lip the flange rests on is in bad shape. In either of those cases, I'd guess the easiest approach would involve welding. Are you still running the original exhaust?

The starter is something you can easily swap in in AutoZone's parking lot. It's on the driver's side, just behind the engine, on top. Your problem could be the starter, or it could be something electrical somewhere between the key and the starter (ignition switch, wiring, safety interlock, starter cables, starter solenoid). What I would do, is since I'd estimate there's a good chance it's the starter, I'd remove the starter, make sure the cables to them aren't totally corroded and hopeless, which they won't be, take it in to an AutoZone or similar and have them test it. If money's an issue, you might consider a used starter, seeing as it's easy to change out if it goes bad again, and Subaru's starters seem to last a while, based on that few people post about them. How many years and miles are on yours?

Plugs 3 and 4 are fired by the same ignition coil. Since 4 still fires well (presumably), I'd guess the problem is after the coil. The left and right wires are almost the same length; swapping them is a good test. It might also be a fuel injector.

I had a Tribeca sighting on Saturday. My first thought was "Ha, ha, someone bought an ugly Nissa-- whoa, that's a Tribeca?" It's got a really big nose for something packing a flat six. This one was a purple/pink that, with the snout, really made it look like a pig. My second thought was that it really doesn't look that big on the outside. Later, I was following a ~2000 Outback, when a 2005 Outback passed us, heading the other way. It was an interesting opportunity to see the progression of Subaru's styling. Picture an EA82 wagon, then Legacy wagons from '90, '95, '00, and '05. Maybe the 2010's will have Picasso-inspired headlamps.

I find the "wide open throttle" switch very useful. Push the pedal *all* the way down, and it'll turn off the A/C and EGR. Unfortunately, it'll also make the fuel/air mixture rich to maximize power. When I have to drive an automatic, I enjoy shifting with my right foot. Stabbing the throttle down to WOT, then immediately releasing to the 2/3 throttle I actually want, almost always causes a downshift. Completely lifting the throttle, then returning to 1/3 throttle, often causes an upshift.

I don't know what XADO is (hey Xadoman, what's Xado?), but I know molybdenum sulfides are added to motor oil for a very similar effect - the molybdenum fills in rough patches on metal surfaces, "repairing" wear, reducing friction. Most of the high-mileage motor oils have such additives in them already. In worn engines, I could see a surface-smoothening additive improving efficiency, but I would not expect miracles. If there were miracle additives, you'd have heard about them, and Exxon-Mobil, Chevron, Sopus, and everyone else would be trying to sell them to you. So I guess I'll believe it when I hear it from a megabillionaire.

From what I've read, K&N's are not much higher-flowing versus paper filters, and they let in more wear particles than other filters. I give them a thumbs-down.

Wow, I just looked at a bunch of pictures with the new grille and I didn't notice the grille until someone pointed it out. The grille looks fine. I like how the hoodscoop looks like it sorta lines up with the center grille portion, rather than just sticking up five inches out of the middle of a flat hood like the old ones seemed to. I really like all that underbody plastic. They should make that as an extra-cost accessory for the Impreza and Legacy. I do not at all like the latest fad in station wagon C pillars. It's trying to imitate a sedan. Also, that little bump on the tailgate that imitates a trunk is a pet peeve of mine. I want a wagon that makes no apologies about the fact that it's a wagon. The rear wiper on the sedan is also pretty cool. I don't know if it's cost-effective, but hey, since when is an STi supposed to be cost-effective? All in all, it's not too bad. It's definately cooler than a Mustang. I hope it works out for them.

I'm not terribly far from you, in Buffalo. Here, there are loads of Subarus, but a '90-'94 Legacy is a pretty rare sight, and I think I've only seen one pre-1990 Subaru since I got my Legacy. I attribute their rarity to rust. My '96 is starting to rust in more places than I want to sand and paint. My dad had a 1984 Subaru hatchback, which he bought new, and later sold for $500 in 1992. It was badly rusted out after eight years in salty Buffalo. Corrosion aside, I love my car. It's easy to work on, it handles wonderfully, it's remarkably reliable.

They sell automotive weatherstripping and adhesive at parts stores here. I'm sure you could find some and make a new gasket.

I saw a set of spinning iron crosses on a Dodge Caravan the other day. I almost took pictures, but the minivan's owner and his kids were right there. Anyway, spinning rims are silly on any car, but on an older Subaru, they look completely out of place. Maybe less so on a WRX, but that car has actual performance and doesn't benefit from showy hubcaps interfering with airflow across its brakes.

Fun with cruise control: With cruise control on, yank the stick into the Neutral position without declutching. The computer doesn't seem to know it's not still in gear, and the revs start to climb (but surprisingly slowly). I chickened out at 4000RPM, so I don't know if it would give up or bounce off the rev limiter. It's great that the cruise control works in 3rd, 4th, or 5th gear. I like my cruise control, despite the occasional minor bucking. But then it'll buck a little even I myself let off the throttle suddenly while in gear.

The layer of salt, oil, and grime that forms on the top of batteries is conductive. Clean the top of your battery when it gets filthy.

Plus they give your car bling looks; w00t! When you get to Vermont, don't forget that while AWD makes you more stable while cruising and able to launch just as well on ice and slush as on dry pavement, it doesn't do a thing for you while you're trying to slow down. Even so, Legacies hold the road way better than taller cars and cars with mushier suspension. Subarus are great.

That's a very reasonable guess. The computer uses the MAP sensor to calculate how much air is entering the engine so it can make educated guesses about how much fuel to inject. The sensor is mounted to the firewall, near the passenger side fender. If its hose was disconnected or leaking, and you fixed it, the code should stay off and you should have nothing to worry about.

Well, I did the math, and here's what I came up with. Five quarts of oil, one filter. SuperTech oil change: $.79*5 + $2 = $6 oil change. Valvoline/Fram: $2*5 + $3 = $13 Mobil1/Bosch: $4.5*5 + $5 = $27.50 Run the car for 201,000 miles, changing the oil every 3000 miles, you change the oil 67 times. Which would cost you $402, $871, or $1842.50, depending on your choice of oil. So you could be lining the pockets of predatory corporations with quite a bit of money. And I think the amount of money you could save is significant.

I have some unconventional advice. Don't do scheduled mantainence just because the calendar or odometer says it's time. Inspect at least the alternator and A/C belts. Look for cracks, missing sections of tooth, etc. Here's a Link to a potentially helpful site. If they're still good, there's no need to throw them out. That is, unless you don't mind spending a few extra Jacksons to be sure your belt won't break before you next have it serviced. You could do the water pump and front oil seals every 120,000 miles. But 60000 highway miles puts far less wear on the car than 60000 stop-and-go miles, so your car's parts will probably last more miles than normal.

Also, some models have EGR (and a port for it on one cylinder head), and some don't. That PDF sounds great.

SuperTech all the way. That's Wal-Mart's house brand. It's made by Sopus (Quaker State / Pennzoil), and it's API certified for use in non-historic cars (just like all motor oil sold anywhere but Dollar General). I also run SuperTech oil filters, using the rationale "At least it's not a Fram." There really isn't any indication on the packaging that $2/qt oil is better than $1/qt oil. I presume the difference is mostly marketing and markup. My owners manual from 1996 says the factory specifies API service grade SG motor oil, and they recommend 5W30. So I guess, if you really wanted to, you could say SuperTech 5W30 is factory recommended oil.

Wow, that sucks. I have two questions which won't bring you closer to solving your problem. 1. How did this happen? 2. Can you start the car using a key that's in two pieces? Seeing a locksmith sounds like a good idea. As an absolute last resort, you could replace the lock with a new one. But then you'd have to carry around seperate keys for the ignition and door locks.

It makes 100 horse. That's respectable for a 1.5L engine, and so is its 70 ft-lbs per liter figure. Does anyone know if it uses the same block as the EJ18/22?

Well, I've seen Aussie and German-market Subarus with stars upon thars, so this odd lightning-esque logo that's not even in an oval surprised me. It's not a bad logo. I wouldn't mind having one on my grille. It would probably fit well on the new Tribecas and Imprezas. Also odd is that this model is being sold as a Brighton, yet it has ABS, fog lights, and a raised roof.

from http://pravo.ruz.net/shop/propview.php?view=31