SiriusBlack

Well they aren't upgraded like I was hoping to get, but rockauto has sachi struts under 86 GL 1.8 OHV. Only right hand, but the spring cup isn't offset, so it should fit both sides. I've ordered two while we conduct further research into aftermarket alternatives.

@SuspiciousPizza I'm not sure about an L series, as I'm not sure what you're refering to. If you mean a loyale, then no it won't fit a BRAT. The BRAT along with the Leone Sedan, wagon, and hardtop all shared the same suspension mounting through the 80s as far as I know. Even the XT (minus the XT6 which was different thanks to its 5 bolt hubs and the three bolt top hat of the XT4) had the same suspension mounting style as the Leone line. This stems from the BRAT not actually being its own thing, but rather being built off the 4WD Leone wagon, and sharing its underpinnings.

I've been looking at 80s era Citroen struts, as apparently the air struts in the XT were sourced from Citroen. Knowing that the XT and other Subaru's of the 80s shared the same suspension mounting style (minus the three bolt top mount on the XT) I think some Citroen struts may be a good lead to check out as well.

So, so, SO many of us need struts :(. And yet not a single aftermarket company seems to make them in any way shape or form.

Tough to tell from the one pic, but could it be? A direct bolt in? It claims a tube diameter of 45mm like you said. https://bilstein.com.au/shock-absorbers/bilstein-coilover-kit-shock-absorber-206/

I may just have to, my BRAT really needs new struts. At the very least I'd be adding new knowledge to the old gen scrolls, lol! *sigh* I was really hoping for some gorilla units, as I adore the ones in my STi, but no matter how many times I email them, they never agree to make actual BRAT parts...

Yeah, that's what I was concerned about. Unfortunately I don't have any other ideas for new BRAT suspension that don't involve a five lug swap. ISC used to build struts to order, but they don't seem to anymore.

@bushytailsIf I get complete assemblies from Gorilla, they offer three different spring rates. So I could get firmer springs. My primary concern outside of them bolting up, is travel. I'm pretty sure sambar coilovers don't have as much travel as a BRAT. I'd love to get some used sambar struts just to see if they'll bolt up, but I have no idea where to find some. I did email Gorilla for further specs, but have yet to hear back.

Sorry for the late update on this Issue. I'm pretty sure the contacts in the ignition switch are bad. I installed a push button that gives the starter a direct 12V upon press. So when the issue pops up, just key on and Push button.

Hey all. I'm needing new front suspension assemblies for my 86 BRAT, and of course have been unable to find any new assemblies. However for those of you that have gotten suspension from GorillaOffroadCompany, have you looked at their offerings for the subaru Sambar? The assemblies look shockingly close to a BRAT's. So has anyone ever tried fitting any kind of Sambar suspension to a BRAT? Are the upper mount spacing and lower tube diameters right for direct bolt in? I bought a set of silverback limited coilovers for my STi some years ago and love them, so if anyone has tried this, I would be extremely curious to know how it went. As always Thanks in advance for any help.

@nvu Yeah I figured that out after I did it XD.

For it to be toast, it would of had to have been out of the box. It's a brand new starter and solenoid. Which is entirely possible.

I have now jumpered both clutch switches. We'll see if that fixes it.

@1 Lucky Texan Is there any way to delete or bypass the clutch safety switch? I certainly don't need it.

@forester2002sThere is an audible click when they key is turned, however the solenoid was replaced along with the starter.

Hey all, my 05 STi has a seemingly random intermittent no start issue. I originally thought it was the battery or starter, but I have replaced both and run all new and upsized cable. Thinking now that it's something with the immobilizer. The cycle the key 3 times reset doesn't seem to affect it. It has full power, but will not crank when this occurs. I was wondering if a new key with a new chip could fix it? I don't know if the chips can become corrupted like a thumb drive? Or if I need a whole new ignition cylinder, which seem to be rather difficult to find. Any help would be greatly appreciated, it's very nearly left me stranded several times now. Thanks in advance.

@GeneralDisorder I have my engine mostly back together. However I have found a hose barb that appears to have been welded or brazed to the back of the drivers side valve cover. It had a hose from the bottom of the AOS I removed, going to it. From all the pictures I've seen of this engine, I assume that barb is not factory? Thanks in advance.

I wasn't worried about doing the test in my driveway, I was worried about replacing the pistons in my driveway should the ringlands be cracked. I'll be doing the compression test soon. @1 Lucky Texan I already installed a killer bee pickup in it awhile back.

I was thinking about that. I don't think they are, as it ran completely fine besides the oil leak. I just pray they haven't cracked. My shop setup is non-existent, I've been doing repairs in my driveway all these years.

Done. I got stainless steel braided oil lines installed. Now I'm in the process of putting the PCV system back to stock. Looks like they deleted my PCV valve when they installed the AOS.

Alright, I just finished pulling the car apart. The turbo is PRISTINE. No residue, no shaft slop, nothing. There is oil all over the turbo oil drain hose and the gasket for the metal hose barb, where it bolts to the bottom of the turbo doesn't look very good. So I'm going to replace that gasket and others while I have it out. I will also replace the small rubber oil drain hose, and look into deleting the AOS the previous owner installed. Currently we're working under the hypothesis that the PCV system over pressurized and blew the excess pressure out that drain line, since it's the path of least resistance.

Reasonably sure. It sure as hell looked like engine oil, but by that same token it was dark out. So I'm not 100% sure.

Hey all, got a bit of a problem. I have an 05 WRX STI that I got used with 70,000 miles on it. Owner said the engine had been swapped with a 20,000 mile unit. I have owned the car almost a year now. Mods it came with: Invidia cat back exhaust. Cobb intake Grimspeed turbo solenoid AOS of unknown brand Aluminum mishimoto radiator Cobb accessport running stage 1 tune of unknown origin. Mods I installed: Killerbee oil pickup Prosport oil pressure and voltage gauges. I run Castrol 5W30 premium full synthetic. Now on to the problem. I was driving home one night, about 12 miles. I was driving spiritedly, but definitely not thrashing it. I pull into a gas station at the edge of the town I live in and notice smoke from under the hood. There is oil all over the passenger side strut tower and on the turbo and down pipe. I check the oil level, and it's right on the money. I decide to drive it the 8 blocks home and keep a close eye on the oil pressure. Oil pressure is fine all the way home, I open the hood and check again. There doesn't appear to be any additional oil on the strut tower or surrounding area. I have thought for awhile that it gets hotter under the hood than it ought to, but my temp gauge never climbs past the third mark up that's before the red zone. I have yet to pull it apart and look in depth, in the meantime anyone have any ideas as to what may have happened? My current theory is that the banjo bolt for the oil line on top of the turbo went bad. As always, thanks in advance.

It does it even when in gear with the clutch in. The neutral switch shouldn't affect it then I would think.

Hey all. I just got done replacing both O2 sensors on my 05 WRX STI. It was throwing a running rich code, and getting abysmal fuel mileage, hence the sensor replacement. Now after the sensor swap, it hasn't thrown the rich mixture code with a 5 mile test drive. Now however it has a wandering idle. If you disengage the clutch and let it drop to idle, it will either drop so low it actually dies, or it will drop to around 200 RPM before climbing back to 800. It will also occasionally speed up the idle to 1000 RPM. It had this wandering issue before the sensor swap, but it was never bad enough to kill the car and generally wandered up instead of down. I have only had this car a few months and the previous owner tuned it. How is the idle controlled on this car? Is it all ECU controlled? Or is there something I can adjust? Do I just need to give the ECU time figure out it has new sensors? Thanks in advance.