RallyKeith

I was just coming back to add that. I also use what is basically a chisel to help pry that split joint apart. Keith

The ball joints aren't pressed in, but after 10 years they are rusted in. Removing that 14mm bolt on the split joint behind the ball joint is all that really holds it in. Like I said though, because of the split joint, water gets in there and they rust together. The best way I've found to get them apart is by removing that 14mm bolt, un-bolting the sway bar so the lower control arm moves freely, and then actually bolting the ball joint back onto the lower control arm. Then I carefuly heat the area of the hub that holds the ball joint and proceed to use a small sledge hammer and hit downward on the lower control arm. Once I get the ball joint out I take sandpaper and clean all the rust out of the socket the ball joint sits in. That's how I've done mine. They aren't fun. Keith

Ok, I see what you mean now. Thanks

As for your issue at hand, there are a few things the mechanics can do before tearing the engine apart. Two common test that should be run are a compression test and a leak-down test. These will give you an idea of how well the piston rings are sealing. If for some reason your engine has low compression or does not hold pressure in a cylinder well, you could be getting oil into the cylinders and burning it off. I'm not sure I understand your reasoning on this and I might be thinking along different lines than you. Can you explain further? Here is what I'm thinking. If she has a valve seal leak, or blow by (Oil from the sump getting past the rings and getting into the cumbustion chamber) or oil getting into the cumbustion chamber for any reason, then it doesn't really matter if it burns or not. It still in there and once it is in there it will either burn or be blown out the exhaust. In fact, I would think it is better for it to burn then to be blow out raw into a catalytic converter. As for a thicker oil being less likely to leak in the first place I would agree. But at that point why spend $3-4 more a quart just to have it leak. I'd try it with a standard oil first. I'm curious on this.

178K on my 95, only replaced the seals My father's 91 had something like 200k+ and never had a problem other than seals My brother's 91 has something like 220k+ with nothing other than replacing the seals.

So far I've guessed that your car is AWD, but is it an Automatic or a manual? Is it a turbo or just normally aspirated? Depending on how much you are willing to spend you can get one from a salvage yard that should be gauranteed to be good for some amount of time. Of course, the other route is just finding a u-pull it yard and getting one for next to nothing. Keith

I'm assuming you're talking about the part that goes between the switches and the wheel that the airbag wires come out of? If so, then I used the original unit and never unhooked the wires for it. I even followed the dirctions on it where with the wheels pointed straight you turn it completely clockwise and then back the 2.65 turns, just to be safe. Keith

How does it smell after you do that? You are most likely over powering the clutch and it's sitting there slipping like mad. The RS has a better clutch in it that will grab a little better and is probably why it behaves differently.

So I'm in the process of adding the rear wiper to my 95 Legacy Brighton Wagon. Last night I pulled off the air bag and steering wheel and swapped the switch cluster for the turn signals/headlights and the wipers. I put it all back together and now the airbag light is on. The only thing I can think is that this is like my old honda was. I reattached the battery after the airbag was removed because I wanted to make sure the new junkyard assembly worked. In my old honda turning on the key with the airbag disconnected would trip the system and it would need to be reset. So I quess the question is, is that what most likely happened to mine, and if so how do I reset the airbag computer? Thanks, Keith

If you haven't already, you need to go to http://www.nasioc.com and http://www.i-club.com Both are Impreza specific boards and they will have much more info on the WRX then we have here. Not that we can't give you a good idea, but most of the people here are dealing with all the different models of subaru. Over there they are basically all RS, WRX, and STi people. Oh, and as long as you aren't abusive to the car there are no major problems. They've had some issues with things like over active ABS and clutches that shutter when cold, but they've got that all worked out now. Keith

Well, I don't own the car yet. It gets picked up next week and then it will be some time before I can try to get it fixed and on the road. For now I'm just posing the question. Also, you live in PA, of course you live on a hill I my self live at the base of a hill, some even call it a mountain. I basically have to drive over it and another "mountain" to get to work. PA is great like that, especially in the winter! Keith

Don't knock it till you try it. The outside leaves lots to be desired, but the interior is awesome. This is the first Subaru that I've seen with a truely high-end interior design. Oh, and that 7 passenger thing, yeah... only if 2 of the people are under 8 and don't mind being cramped. The thrid row of seats is a joke.

What are the odds that a 4EAT from a 96 Impreza with a 2.2 would be the same as a 4EAT from a 96 Legacy GT with the 2.5? Keith

So, Everything I'm reading says that the 96 EJ25 motors require 93 octane. My question is, what if I retarded the timing a few degrees, would it then most likely run ok on 89? I have ECUTEK's Delta Dash software and with it I can globally adjust the ignition timing +/- a few degrees. Does anybody think it would work or am I wasting my time? I know I wouldn't get the same performance, but unless I'd be towing or hauling around a bunch of people I don't think I'd care. What do you think? Keith

Would I need to get an ECU from a 2.2, or would the 1.8 ECU run it just fine? Thanks, Keith

Actually, I remember reading this TSB when we had issues with the clutch in our Rally car. Same thing, the clutch was stuck to the floor and had no pressure. It was the master cylinder in our car that was bad. Keith

Yeah, I'm more inclined to say there is a small problem with the master cylinder not holding the pressure. You can boil the fluid in brakes because the heat from the pads is transfered directly through the caliper piston to the fluid. In a clutch you've got the piston, then a long actuating arm, a bearing, and a pressure plate to transfer all the heat built up in the clutch back to the fluid. So I don't think it is really possible to boil the fluid, especially since the pressure the fluid see's is based on the back pressure of the clutch pressure plate, and not how hard you are pushing the pedal. I'd say small issue with the master from you holding the pedal in for extended periods. The problem went away because you started shifting normally with out holding pressure on the pedal for extended periods. The more you shifted normally the more it pumped back up until the pedal felt normal again. Does that sounds reasonable? Keith

Although that sounds really awesome, I think he is going to do this to sell the car, so I don't know how that would go over. Thanks for the input though. I may have to consider doing that to my Step-father's 1.8 slug. Those little 1.8's are ok unless you want to do major 70mph highway driving. Then they can't seem to get out of their own way. Keith

It looks like my dad is getting a 95 AWD Auto Impreza with an EJ18 that is blown. We have a few EJ22 motors lying around. Can we swap one of those in, and if so what would we use. I'm guessing that we could just use the EJ18 intake, wiring, and sensors, and slide the EJ22 Block and heads under it and it would work. Thoughts? Keith

http://www.paeco.com/ It's not explicitly listed, but they have something.

I'd more or less agree. Some kind of base program would be nice. Dyno time isn't cheap, and I'd rather have something to start with if I was doing it. Keith

Thanks. I kinda figured the axle back wouldn't fit, but if I could get the midpipe to fit up that would save me some time and money.

So since most of the exhaust needed to be replaced on my RX I went ahead and bought a TWE Downpipe to start the project. Now, it just so happens that my father has a complete WRX Exhaust lying in his garage. Does anybody know if that will fit under the RX, and will it bolt up to the TWE down pipe? Thanks, Keith

Especially in the North East you should see lots of RHD Legacy Wagons. The US Postal service uses RHD legacy wagons as delivery vehicles in rural areas. After some amount of time they sell them off to the public.

That's a good point as well!