TomRhere

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71341 There's Gary's how-to. I agree on it being in the speedometer head. Been my experience that a bad cable would cause issues at different speeds, not just a particular one.

I would leave them also. There should be a shield covering most of those lines in the wheel well. You could fashion more shielding using some aluminum roof flashing to help cover the exposed areas. And Seals All is some great stuff to carry in the vehicle. I have used it many times to plug a holed gas tank...........

Doing the clutch side of it, would be simular to doing a D/R 5speed swap in an EA-81 body. There's lots of info on doing that part of the swap on here. Electrically, you would have to extend the wires for the disty so they reach the EA-81 disty. Method of doing so is up to you, but I would just use some ring and spade terminal ends on some lenghts of wire for a temporary hook up. I believe you would need to swap the temp gauge sender betwen the two engines so your gauge reads normally, They are different. I think the oil pressure unit are the same, providing,,, that they both be gauge or both warning light. If you remove the spacers for the ASV tubes on the EA-81, the EA-82 Y-pipe will bolt right on. Can't remember if the EA-82 Y-pipe will bolt on if the spacers are left on, but can say it will hang lower because of them. You may need to replace the fuel hoses to the Weber carb, don't think the stock EA-82 lines will reach properly. The hoses, that are now on the BRAT, should work though... Over the years of stuffing this engine into that car body, I've used sections of exhaust pipe to aide in routing radiator hoses. All just temporary until proper hose could be found of course, but it'll last for quite some time that way. I left one in for over 6 years because a friend said "I was stupid for doing so 'cause it would rust thru fast". Oh contrare mon amie......

Ordered new filters yesterday, along with some hose to re-do the ones under it. Hoses looked and felt good, but now that I've "disturbed" them, who knows. Will do the fuel system cleaner once the filters get here.

Bought a tank off Stumpy, it's been here for over a week now. I've just been waiting for the weather to cooperate to get it swapped in. Well, yesterday was a nice day, so I swapped tanks. Broke everyone of the hose clamps trying to get them off. Even broke a couple of the hose barbs off the tank removing hoses, so it be scrap metal now. Mustache bar came down with little issue, but the tank mounting bolts argued with me about coming out. Made a trip to parts store for new clamps, and installed the "new" tank. Had to splice the sending unit wires together, as the ones under mine were badly corroded and broke trying to undo them. Dumped in the 2 gallons of gas I drained from old tank and drove to the gas station. 11.855 gallons filled it, or should I say the $58.00 I had went into the tank. Gauge shows full, but it might not be completely full. So far so good.. No runs, no drips, no errors (so far)...... Thanks go to Stumpy for sending me the tank. And to Mother Nature for doing a beautiful non rainy or otherwise wet day..........

Myself, I would swap the whole door out instead of trying to fit something on a bent up door. Just remember to swap the key lock over... You may be able to straighten out the dent in the compartment with some wood and a scissor jack. It just depends on how badly it's dented. I've had some luck doing so, but there's been a few that I couldn't straighten out that way.

Haven't checked actual mileage in awhile, keep forgetting to write stuff down... But,, last tankfull in the '86 BRAT, Weber carb. I went 322 miles before the low fuel light started to glow. Could've went further, but gas was ten cents cheaper at the station I stopped at vs here where I live. Last tankfull in the '85 BRAT, all stock components. I drove 288 miles before low fuel light came on. This is mostly back roads, driving 64+ miles everyday for work, very little in town, and no highway. 55 mph for the most part.

OK!! If mine are tinted, they be the Blue tint. can't really say they're tinted, slight change in color when looking thru them vs not looking thru the glass. Don't think I would call it either, but really can't say it's Gold tint. Out of an '88 XT6...

Hmm, didn't know there was different tints for these windows. But I have one available, I'll check the tint color and post back.

You are correct in the vac lines you need to keep. If,,,, you can follow the spagetti of vac lines, you can keep your EGR valve working by rerouting it's supply vac source. I can't tell you how to do it myself.. As far as installing the Weber goes, it's easy. There is a problem with the bolts they send with the kit though, (atleast the one from Redline), they're to long. But a trip to your local hardware store can solve that issue. Talking about the bolts that hold the bottom section of the adapter, to the manifold here.. You need to remove the fuel inlet connection from your old carb and install it on the Weber. You may have to put a plug in on the other side of the fuel inlet on the Weber as it may be drilled and tapped. Some are, some ain't.. Hook your fuel lines up as they were on your old carb, you may need to get some hose to properly reach the Weber. You may need to install a Fuel Pressure Regulator in the supply line to the Weber. Some have had to do so, some not.. Lot of people that have done the swap put a small filter on the driver side PVC breather hose, and rework how the passenger side hose, and PCV valve hose attach to the "F" fitting, and then run small hose of it to the Weber breather housing. I have a write up of doing a Weber swap on my BRAT using an EA-82 intake manifold. I can send it to you if you'd like. Email me at tomrhere at yahoo dot com, using Weber swap in the subject line. You won't have to do everything I did, but it'll give you good info..

Check to make sure your rear brakes aren't in need of adjustment. Mine make a noise simular to metal on metal when the rears are in need of some tweekage..

WOW!! Nice pay off. Did you or are you going to buy it back and sell parts?

Welcome to the Board... If the noise is from the engine it could be from the HLA's (hydraulic lash adjusters), they're what open/close the valves. They could be a bit sticky from sitting for so long. We refer to it as the "tick of death" (TOD), but it's not a serious problem, just annoying. I reccomend draining a quart of oil out and pouring in a quart of Dextron II ATF, run it for about 60 miles or so and then do an oil change. The ATF will clean out the oil system and may free up the HLA's. Could also be that you need to reseal the oil pump as it's sucking air around the MickeyMouse gasket, (so called because of it's shape).

Nice score!! Wish I could find one like that...

I didn't know that..

Hmmm, maybe someone has swapped it over to an EA-82 Y-pipe. You can put one of those on an EA-81, but not the other way around, without the ASV spacer blocks.

Put a post in the Market Place for another tank. I may try to fix this one, but I do need to get another one just incase.

No. The length of the tubes from where they curve up to the heads are shorter on the EA-81s. If you still have the spacer blocks that the ASV tubes attached to, then you may be able to use it.

Sounds like you need to adjust the clutch cable.

Well,,, it is the tank. There's a bunch of pin holes above the seam on the front edge. I'll have to clean it of all the junk that's on it to really see how bad it is, but it don't look good. I'm somewhat surprized that UPS will do a gas tank that has had gas in it. I may try to get this one repaired, just depends on if the sending unit bolts want to play nice and come loose without breaking off. I'll soak them down with PB Blaster and/or Seafoam Deep Creep. But knowing Michigan rust like I do, I doubt they'll come loose. Then again, I may go for a tank from the PNW. Would one of you get me the price of a tank and UPS shipping cost? I have use of Corporate address at 49203.

I know there's interference around the disty, and the alt bracket when putting EA-82 intake on an EA-81. It can be worked around though. I've read on here about people having issue where the case halves meet, but I haven't ran into that myself.

A nice clean "no rust" tank would be great, but how would one get it shipped. Thinking now that I won't take it to work today. It's possible that one of the hoses on there failed instead of the tank. If that be true, it's best to leave it sit until I can get under it to check things over.

Seems my '86 BRATs tank has developed a leak. Put about 8 gallons in it yesterday morning, and now I smell gas around it. Looked underneath it and the front of the tank is wet, but not dripping. Turned it around so nose is pointing uphill in the driveway. I checked it after a couple hours and it appears to be drying off. I'll drive it to work tomorrow to burn off some gas before I drop it down.

I believe those are for the power window option. I'll have to remember your fix for the clock for when I put the '82 back together. It wouldn't hold memory either.

Non commercial use vehicles can be registered as a passenger vehicle here in Michegan. I've road around with people in the back of the '82, cops looked real hard at them as we went by, but never was stopped for it.