IASUBE

I've had pretty good luck with them on my EA-81's.. Like GD said they had at least 2 different versions (cfm wise). I try to stay away from the electronic ones, but the one you have doesn't look to be one of them.. In the 70's and 80's all of the big three US manufacturers used them on their 4 cyl's. They're not as plentiful at the U-pull-it's any more... But that's where I got my stock of carbs and tune up parts. Kits are cheap last I checked and there is a wealth of info on the net about tuning them.. Weber jets may fit as well GD mentioned. I'd try working with it a bit if you have the time... when tuned the butt dyno would not be able to tell the difference from a real Weber.

Yep GD and Tom are correct, I've been doing it all day for many years, the place I work for does componet level repair/test/calibration on control electronics for the power production industry. Correct tools and procedures go a long ways to a quality repair. We even do some board repairs on heavly damaged 30+ year old boards. I'd could take a shot at it Shawn.. if you want to send it this way. IASUBE

Not sure this relates as this was on my daughter's EA-82 wagon... And it been many years ago that we went through something very simular... From what I remember the emergency brake was out of adjustment loose, and nothing helped the brake feel, many parts changed and lots of quarts of brake fluid blead through the system... after a e-brake adjust, it got back to normal. It might just be worth a look. IASUBE

Yep Miles is correct, with a 3.70 in the rear, your tire size would have to be smaller by about 9.5% to equal things out. ie; if the front tire size was 25" dia. the rear would be around 23.75" to closely match the gearing.. IASUBE

Ok, yes it's true, that is the generaly used math for carb sizing.. But there is a lot more going on than just "CFM" when it comes to carbs... manifold layout and design, multi-cylinder vs. IR set-ups, different cfm ratings for style carbs...etc. everything come into play, sometimes in ways we wouldn't expect... one quick example; GM offered basicly one size carb, the Q-jet on everything from a 250 cid 6 cly to their 454 cid big block. that really doesn't fit the above math very well, and before anyone jumps on "they made a bunch of different size Q-jets" they really didn't, go check. If you're really interested, Smith and Morrison's book, "Scientific Design of Exhaust and Intake Systems" is a great primer to get you started. IASUBE

Dang it.. wrote a long post on why you should do it... some how it dissapeared... ain't got time to re write the whole thing, bottom line I think you should do it.. it won't be too much carb for it... just my op. Iasube

I had a non-Subaru car's gas millage go south on me one time... Car ran good, but had a "hot" starting problem sometimes... It ended up being the coolant temp sensor had went bad, and the ECU thought the motor was cold so it had the fuel enrichment (choke function) cranked up all the time, I changed the sensor and the mileage came back. That car used two different temp sensors one for the gauge, and one for the ECU, temp gauge always looked good. Might be something to consider, and not trying to be a jerk here, but have you checked for under car fuel leaks? IASUBE

Started out with draining the gas tank saturday morning... found next to nothing in the funnel filter after ~7 gals. were drained, pulled the sending unit (thanks GD) and rigged up a small marker light bulb on a coat hanger wire for a look inside. The tank looked really clean inside, and I could not see any blockage in the ~3 inch tall nylon-mesh screen inlet pickup in the tank... watched while a friend blew back thru the line with air... nothing. So I buttoned it back up and T'd a low pressure gage into the line going to the carb from the front filter, taped the gage to the w/wiper arm and went for a test drive. The stock Subaru pump would run about ~.75-1.25 psi at idle and drop off to zero under load in 2-3rd gear, you could get ~.5 psi higher idle reading pinching off the upper (return) hose on the front filter, but pressure would still drop to zero under load with the lean missfire/power drop-off shortly afterwards (as the float bowl ran empty). A good friend happened to have a new in the box "Holley Red" pump lying around... so we cobbled it in there for a test, paper work in the box said the pressure is preset at 7 psi. At idle the pressure was around 2.5-3.5 psi.... on the test drive, trying to load it down good, I could get it as low as ~1.5 psi. on a 1500-6000 rpm pull at wot in third gear... at cruise it would hold a steady 2.25 psi. So the holley pump got tied up under the car a little better and will drive it this week as a longer term test, while I'm deciding what to replace it with... as the red pump is a little too big to fit nicely under there. Car seems to run great, idle rpm may have increased a bit, I will check the calibration or the gage I used in the test, against a HEISE CMM I have here at work... as the indicated pressures seemed a bit low... never the less... I beleive the cause of the problem was confirmed.. IASUBE

Thanks GD, I will start with the sending unit first and go from there, I think I'll grab a couple of large coffee filters here at work so I can see if there's anything in the gas when I drain it... And thank-you Subaru for having the forsight to install a drain plug in the gas tank... not many makes do. IASUBE

OK after blowing out the hard lines and installing old pump... the car ran great for a while, drove it to work and back (25 miles round trip) all week, till this morning on the the way to work it started it again, wouldn't pull past 45 mph in 4th gear... same thing it would run out of gas and start a lean miss-fire untill you let off the gas.. took it back home and drove the truck to work. The fuel tank will be comming out after work today, as this is my best guess as to where the real problem is, I will have the camera handy in case there's something in there that needs to be seen. I won't be back around a computer till monday... I'll report back with my findings then... IASUBE

Update: Installed new rubber lines and the old original fuel pump last night after blowing out the hard lines, the line running forward to the engine blew out with no noticeable restriction, hard to tell with gas in the fuel tank, if there was a restriction going that way... Anyway, hooked everything up and cranked the starter till I had a good flow out the line going to the carb purging the whole system... The short test drive of 2 miles or so (no tags on it yet) went well, it run good and pulled clean thru all the gears. Best guess is the screen or sock in the tank was close to plugged? I'll get tags and ins. on it this week, so I can try an extended drive, if the problem returns I guess I'll be pulling the tank for a cleaning. thanks for the replys... might have rescued another wagon! :banana:IASUBE

Thanks for the reply's, I do have a low pressure gage I could test the pump with, but would have to tee it in and drive it, as GD mentioned it's a volume problem, as it will sit and idle for ever, but I think I'll blow out the lines and put new rubber on and test it tonight...if I need filters I'll have to order them I'm pretty sure. I'll be sure to keep the pressure down when I blow out the lines as bheinen74 and McBrat know the midwest is the Rust-Belt. The fuel from the tank smells ok... but I don't know how long this wagon's been sitting, but will consider the sea foam. Dang Mick, Can't an Iowegian get a break? I've been here the whole time... averaging 1.5 post a year for the last six years ... IASUBE

GD, thanks I had thought about blowing out the hard lines, wasn't sure about blowing back into the tank, but will give that a shot tonight too... along with checking the rear filter..... will keep my fingers crossed the tank won't need replacing... as the older wagons are getting harder to come by. Do you happen to know what the fuel test pressure should be for a Carb. system? my book only list pressure for Fuel Injection models. Going to change the rubber lines and try the original pump tonight (as it seemed to work fine) using the 1-gal antifreeze... I mean gas tank, yesterday. I guess a pinched hard line could restrict enough fuel to cause the problem.... but don't they run through the cabin? IASUBE

Just picked up a "NEW" 3-eyed Wagon for $50.00 from the original owner dual range 4 speed with 123,000 miles on it... Trying to sort out a fuel delivery problem (main reason the origanal owner gave up on it).. Car will start and idle fine, and slow speed moving around the yard is fine... driving down the road a load in second or third gear the thing just runs out of fuel and lays down, let off the gas a it will come back to running. History that I know, it has new fuel filters on it, a non-stock replacement fuel pump, and this one has the Carter-Weber 1 bl Carb. So yesterday I ran a little test... I rigged a 1 gallon fuel tank and the old fuel pump (found it in the back of the car) under the hood and hooked it up to the feed line to the carb and plugged the one from the tank.. The mighty EA-81 pulled smooth to 6000 rpm in second and third gear... So the question is, Has anyone had problems with the fuel pick-up in the gas tank, or the hard lines in the system? I will be replacing all the rubber lines tonight, just wondering where elce to look... Thanks for any ideas of where to look... IASUBE

The gas tank should have a drain plug in it. I'd drain it and try adding fresh gas as a starting point. then make sure it's pumping gas to the carb.. Your close.. IASUBE

Was just thinking about the eariler comment about "taking off/clutch engagement" I would consider taking a look at the acclerator pump, are you getting a good pump shot when you work the throttle? Lack of pump shot will cause a lean condition untill the mains start flowing. Just something else to check, good luck. IASUBE

Hummmm..... Interesting, I've Never heard any turbo/blower car having boost at idle? Well not without power braking it.... But I think your missing my point, with my old EA82T the boost wouldn't come on till 2500-3000 rpm... In this application that won't do me much good when the big tires and mud pull the motor down, I think that's where a flat TQ curve could have some benifit. Anyone else?..... Reveeen your idea for a smaller turbo is noted, I'll look into that. Thanks IASUBE

Sorry a motor swap ain't happening, I just love the pushrods! Reveeen, thanks for the heads up on Saab's light pressure turbo, they are doing exactly what I want to do, which is putting more area under the TQ curve... by restricting the inlet to the turbo the gas velocity is increased, decreasing lag and boost threshold, granted the total Power out put of their motors is barely above a N/A motor, the driveability is greatly enhanced to to the good bottom/mid-range TQ increase. And boost will never go above 6-8 psi... Just need some grunt to pull the tires in the mud... Below is a short article on the Saab LPT Thanks, IASUBE Light pressure turbocharging is one of the most popular power boosting technology in recent years. Saab, the pioneer of turbo in saloons, is the first car maker put it into mass production. In 1992, it surprised many by introducing the Saab 9000 2.3 turbo Ecopower. The engine had only 170 hp, that is, just 20 hp more than the normally aspirated version and 30 hp below the standard 2.3 turbo. Basically, it was just the standard engine with a smaller turbo and lighter boost pressure. While other car makers were still pursuing "on paper" peak power, Saab's clever engineers realised that less equals to more. Despite of lower peak power, light turbo engine remains to be strong in torque, thus aids acceleration. Most important, it has very much better drivability due to the inexistence of turbo lag. Throttle response is nearly instant. Besides, Saab proved that the better torque curve enables taller gearing, thus actually delivering better fuel economy that a normally aspirated engine of the same size !

Hea McBrat, about 130 miles west of you, Percival Iowa, south of Council Bluffs about 30 miles. IASUBE

Some back ground first,the car is a EA81 wagon, weber, D/R 4 speed running 235-75-15's on 6 hole chevy wagon wheels. The wagon is a total rust bucket, so I'm in the process of putting a bunch of pipe in it to tie it all back together, a 3 in lift/front sub frame is welded in place and work has started on the re-structuring the rest of the chassie (BTW I blame Scott in B. for the inspiration on it) This will be mostly be a toy and a Mud-dragger. OK I was thinking about putting a turbo from an EA82T on it probably a draw thru (got a couple of them) but with a bit of a twist... Turbo guys help me out here please. It needs some bottom end power as anyone who's got big tires and no T-case knows. If I were to install a restrictor disc in the up pipe to the turbo, can I lower the rpm that the turbo will spool up and start boosting? I understand this will choke off the upper rpm at some point and that's ok. For right now.... I'd happily give away some top end power, for boost (TQ) at lower rpm, say 1500-2000 rpm, if need be a large external waste gate could be added to let it rpm if the internal one wont flow enough. Sorry for the lengthy post, Fire away. IASUBE (edit..... so I can't spell...what the hell is a Wangon?)