Legacy777

i'm not sure the autos have a second set of relay contacts....to my knowledge there's only the one on the starter itself......however I have not dwelved deep into this, since it hasn't become a routine problem, yet.

why not just pull the codes and verify it what code is in there. My car has been doing something very similar, and I too have just replaced the starter contacts. I've also just replaced cam & crank sensors, ignition is about the only thing left I can think of.....or possibly an ECU. But it's very sporadic as to when it does it. There's only been one time where it wouldn't start for a good 5-10 min......and of course that was when I had to go to the airport to go out of town.....grrr I'd be interested in some test procedure to verify the ignition or some other componant.

The brakes consist of a caliper and a bracket that mounts them to the hub. There is a bolt that holds the caliper to the bracket. It is on the bottom of the caliper. There is a top pin that the caliper slides on. The combination of these two provide the "floating" caliper design. If these pins don't move "float" any more then the calipers will stick and you get problems. Some times they can be cleaned and re-greased. Re, the pulsing in the pedal or steering wheel. Pulsing in the steering wheel, it's most likely front brakes. If you get pulsing in the pedal, it's most likely the rear brakes.

check your caliper guide pins......if they move freely, sand down the pads and rotors slightly and then go rebed the brakes back. Go make several (10) or so stops from 60-15mph with medium/heavy brake pressure. Do them pretty much back to back. After the last one, drive slowly around and don't use the brakes, allow the rotors to cool down.

disconnect the test mode plugs

this is more suited in the old gen forum

if the car is off, ignition in the ON position, and gas pedal pressed, you will hear a noise, it's normal.

where in the northwest are you located? A family friend owns a tranny shop in seattle area, he knows his stuff. If you're in that area, I'll give you his info.

if the ecu didn't pay attention to sensors when it started, how would it adapt to varying conditions? Coolant temp sensor is definitely an important sensor for start, and especially in the situation you described. It's like 20 bucks at liberty subaru http://www.newsubaru.com

may want to contact robert at forced air. He should be able to do some work, or recommend a good shop. http://www.forcedairtech.com Also I believe kastle on http://www.scoobymods.com is from phoenix area.

I'd agree with the coolant temp sensor diag. You can get one for 20 bucks at libertysubaru http://www.newsubaru.com you can pull the codes & do an active diag mode. Instructions on my site. For the money, I'd probably just replace the temp sensor.

The rubber bulb thing get's hard over time too......oh well....guess they weren't designed to be sucking toxic stuff.....haha

That's why you buy new ones they're cheap

There probably isn't going to be too many good junkyards with subaru stuff in tx. I check out the subaru svx board http://www.subaru-svx.net and see which junkyards they suggest, and if you're going to have a mailing address in the US for a while, ship the parts to yourself in tx.

ATF?? How does that stuff work?

find out where it's leaking. It's probably at the return line to the pump. The rubber hose get's old and brittle. You can just replace that hose, and it usually helps. If you still are leaking afterwards, it's either the seal on the pressurized line or the pump itself.

nope, not from the factory.

remove two bolts, pull cap off, pull old o-ring out, clean up area, reassemble. Not too hard

also, the rear passenger cam seals tend to leak, and you should've done the front cam and crank seals while you had the timing belt dilema, not sure if you did.

yeah I think we did.......this is a dead topic IMO.

very interesting.......

Are you using the proper octane fuel? Also, you may have carbon build up, and it may be causing your pinging. If you can get a product down there called sea foam, I'd suggest using it to clean the carbon out. Alternatively, you may be able to find some other stuff or take it to a shop. If you want, take a read at this about letting the engine suck down some water. http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=560&highlight=tick+water+engine

yup.....those teeth are very important

I think the official term you're looking for is torque bind. First thing I'd do is put the FWD fuse in to confirm it is the transmission. If the binding goes away with the fuse, then try a transmission fluid change as a first solution.

Did you TDC the #1 cylinder when you were lining the crank back up with the oil pump gear?