Legacy777

Please try and refrain from starting multiple posts on the same subject. I've moved all the replies from your other threads to this one. Please continue all discussions here. Thanks

If you have any issues or questions, just let me know.

This is for the 97 Legacy, but should be similar. I think I may have the 95 one if this doesn't help. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1997_Legacy_FSM/

When converting the first gen legacies to r134a, I usually recommend replacing the receiver drier with a new one, changing the oil to at the minimum esther based, but PAG is better, and charging the system to about 75-80% of its original capacity. The system refrigerant capacity will be listed on a sticker on the radiator core support. Take a look at my post over the Legacycentral BBS. I go into more detail there. The only thing I would suggest changing is the use of PAG oil over esther oil. That's one I have learned after doing a couple of these. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1083

Good deal. Keep us posted on how it turns out.

When I did the shifter bushings on my 97 impreza I had to remove the exhaust shield to get access at the bushings. I think I was able to wiggle the shield out without removing the exhaust, but yeah....it's not too fun.

When you tested for voltage on the plug going to the pump, were the green connectors still connected? The ECU only energizes the fuel pump relay for about 2-3 seconds to pressure up the fuel system, and then turns off until the engine actually starts. With the green diagnostic connectors connected, the ECU will cycle the relay and you should see 12v going on and off at the plug near the fuel pump. If you still don't see any voltage, I would then try and track down the fuel pump relay and check it.

Welcome to the USMB Mike. Hopefully someone can give you some suggestions. If you don't get any responses in here, you may want to post in the meet & greet forum.

He's on the Legacycentral BBS. It's definitely a very unique car.

I would start by checking the connector under the passenger seat and see if it looks burnt. Sometimes the connection can get hot, cause an arc and fail. Also, I would check the relay. You can connect the green diagnostic connectors, which should cycle the relay, so you can hear if they are working or not.

It probably will be different, but hopefully someone can confirm.

Good post and comments. I think you'll see more comments about rust repair in the old gen forum and some in the shop talk forum.

I would start by checking the fuel pump relay. It's up under the dash on the driver's side (a real pain to get to). You can connect the green diagnostic connectors and it will cause the relays, including the fuel pump to cycle on and off. See if you can determine if the relay is good or not and go from there. This diagram shows the relay location http://surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/elect_unit_loc/6-3_electrical_unit_location03.jpg Here's a picture of the connectors http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg

Have you done any preventative maintenance recently? Air filter, plugs, wires, etc?

Can you provide some additional details as to what part specifically you're looking to replace.

Yes they should be compatible.

There are different screws for the new plate. Here's what I just recently got. Plate - 11831AA210 (1PC) Bolts - 800406140 (5PCS) Bolt - 800406150 (1PC) The one separate bolt has thread locking compound on it. Not sure where that one is supposed to specifically go.

Good deal! Thanks for the updates and perseverance on troubleshooting the problem

It shouldn't matter. The outer cam is typically setup for the throttle linkage and the inner cam is setup for the cruise linkange. The inner cam is slightly smaller and may give a little more resistance over the outer larger cam. The knock sensor should be just straight down if you're looking at the throttle cables. Here's a pic of the knock sensor. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2481.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2475.JPG Not sure if I answered all your questions. If not, let us know.

Here's resistance values for the (2-wire) engine coolant temp sensor 2.0 - 3.0 kohms @ 20 deg C (68 deg F) 0.3 - 0.4 kohms @ 80 deg C (176 deg F) Here's the resistance values for the (1-wire) dash gauge sensor 187.6 ohms @ engine coolant temp 46 - 54 deg C (115 - 129 deg F) 19 ohms @ engine coolant temp 116 - 124 deg C (241 - 255 deg F) Here's a scan from the factory manual on the dash gauge. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/1992_TLegacy_Dash_Temp_Diag_non-USDM.zip Here's the fuel gauge info I have. Similar to what ts39136 posted. E - 92 ohms 1/2 - 48.5 ohms F - 5 ohms

Welcome to the USMB. With that much power, I'd highly recommend a front mount over a top mount. Not sure about the turbo, but to make that kind of power, it's obviously going to be a huge turbo. External wastegate is also probably a must or highly desired. BTW, what are you planning to stick this motor into, and are you wanting 500 wheel horsepower or 500 crank horsepower?

You need to supply 12v to the CEL output on the ECU. Circuits always sink power better than supplying power. With the test meter, put one side on the CEL pin, and the other side to a 12v source. Even if there are no codes stored it will blink at a steady rate. All the codes can be found on my site. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html I'll try and work on getting the values tonight. Been busy....

What year EJ22?

I would not recommend putting it in the car. If they don't initially honor the warranty, I'd suggest getting a leak down test so they do. It'll be cheaper to spend the $100 now vs. trying to have to pull the motor out later to do the head gaskets.

Yeah....I would check the circuit board again.....sounds more like that could be the problem.