heartless

There ya go!! now take the bad one in with you when you go get a new one - they dont cost much and you really should have both.

:lol: except for one thing.... dont have an EJ25!!! :banana:

hehehe, you aint seen nothing yet! Seriously tho, I have the parts & I dont need them anymore - you do need the parts - we can work out the details later.

it is just simply a flasher unit. they are pretty much the same all over - even walmart sells them for just a buck or two. there are the standard ones & heavy duty ones - you dont need a heavy duty unless you pull a trailer on a regular basis (running more signals than stock).

Dont go hacking your cables up - will pull the ones from Hildy & send them to you with the other stuff. Never had a corrosion problem with her. The Legacy is a little different...

yes - most cars have a separate flasher units for the hazard lights & the turn signals - they do not separate front and rear... to determine which one is which, turn your hazards on (assuming they operate correctly) and feel the flasher units - you should be able to "feel" the clicking as the unit "flashes"

too funny, GD - but in actuallity they are too busy checking out that new welder/torch setup you just got!!

well, got the corrosion all cleaned up - was pretty nasty - very damp & turning blue - ended up taking the cable ends completely apart to get at it all - a pain, but worth it i think. the 'new' battery is just over a year old - 10/08 - and has a full charge now - was down a little from sitting unused - hooked it up to the charger overnight and it should be golden now. cable ends have a coating of dielectric grease, and will smear a little on the battery posts, too, before hooking it up. and just to be sure, will take it in to have it checked/tested again... when i had the old battery tested - supposed to be 580 CCA - tested out at only 467 CCA (ambient temp about 45 degrees F)

is this spray readily available at the various parts outlets?? might have to grab a can of that. and the battery is the one that was in the car when i got it, so no idea of its real age...

Well, stopped at the parts store while I was in town today and had battery & alternator checked out - the good news is the alt. is still good - bad news, battery is on its way to failing - will be replaced asap - we have another, newer one on hand, just need to make sure it has a full charge before i put it in & get the terminals cleaned up good. Thanks again for all the info guys!

being a 96 - my first question would be "interference or non-interference motor??" Non-interference is a BIG plus in my book... when was T-belt replaced last? Be specific on this one - actual milage & date when done - especially if it is an interfence motor... Good luck

Thanks for the replies guys. I was just amazed at the amount of crud build up in less than a week! Pretty sure it is a maintenance free battery, but not sure of the age - was in the car when i got it & i've had it for 2 years now - might be time for a new one, regardless... Will definitely do a voltage check on both the battery and the alternator - dont need either one failing on me with cold weather coming in. :-\ I do check things on a fairly regular basis and the corrosion buildup is something pretty recent (less than a month)

1990 Legacy LS, Auto, AWD Had to disconnect the battery about a week ago -swapped out the rear hatch & had to do some wiring work. The Positive terminal had a bit of corrosion buildup on it - cleaned it up before hooking it back up. less than a week later - had to jump start my moms car so we could move it - popped the hood, pulled back the pos. cover & the terminal is covered in corrosion again! (possibly even worse than it was before) What causes this??? is my battery going bad?? alt?? connections are all tight...car starts easily...

yes, the marker light (next to the headlight) has one phillips head screw under the hood - undo the screw and wiggle light housing slightly forward and to the side to get to the bulb socket. there are two clips on the back edge of the housing that hold it in place against the fender. twist bulb socket counterclockwise to unlock it - change the bulb - reverse the process to reinstall...

sorry to hear about the toe, man! that sucks! going to the doc for a broken toe is kind of pointless anyway (and a waste of money) - not much they can do for them (i know - broke one once & had it checked out - they did nothing but confirm it was broken!) unless you break something further up the foot, save your pennies.

i agree with ball joints probably being the culprit, but definitely check out EVERYTHING under there - tierod ends, sway bar links, struts, control arms & links... and definitely - if you do one side - do the other at the same time - only makes sense. doing only one side puts added stress on the other worn side, and it WILL fail not too far down the line. do both sides at the same time and be done with it. and sorry guys - have used the cheaper aftermarket joints with no problems - but I dont offroad either...

you're welcome! glad i could help someone.

yeah, sure, slam the woman...doesnt matter that the greater majority are never shown how to take care of a vehicle, cause it isnt "a womans job" to take care of the vehicle. I, on the other hand, DO know how to take care of a vehicle, so it doesnt bother me so much that women get slammed for this kind of stuff - because it is one of those 'Sad but VERY true' things... and GD - definitely stick to your ethics on the wear items - used is ok on some stuff, but like you, I wont do used T-belts (unless as an emergency "get me home" measure to be replaced properly asap) & other items of that sort. The Legacy LS I am driving now was seriously abused by its PO - blown airshocks, exhaust almost nonexsistant (scraped off driving with the blown shocks), T-belts & related - who knows, interior covered in long white pet hair (and kind of stinky) A couple of months and many hours later I have been driving her for just over 2 yrs now - so far so good...

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalcold.html punch in the stock size - then the size you would like to use and it will show how much of a difference there is...also calculates how far off your speedo would be with your tire choice.

have an 89 GL, NA SPFI, FWD 5 spd that we are parting out - KNOWN runner!! could have the ECU & a fuse link out today and ready for shipping if you are in dire need (only drawback is shipping time - from Wisconsin) even have some flat rate priority shipping boxes on hand...

yup - exhaust is 2" Outside Diameter (OD) as for a cheap muffler - well, i just recently threw a Cherry Bomb under mine (the oval style, NOT the glasspack one, altho I have used those on other cars) it has an offset pipe on one side and centered pipe on the other (according to paperwork it can be mounted in either direction) and fits in the location pretty well (actually smaller than the stock one - had to extend the pipe going in a little). You will need to fab up a hanger if you go with anything other than the stock replacement... Cost for muffler was about $20. As already stated - 90-94 for most mechanical bits - body parts are another matter, they made some minor body changes in 92 i think, so be careful of that...

ok, yeah - it is possible if you disconnect the rear driveline - but seriously - how many "average" people are going to go to that trouble? Not many...

unless the car is running, the FWD fuse will be useless - for an AWD vehicle it is a must to get all 4 wheels off the ground for towing any distance. it would be ok to tow a very short distance (mile or 2) with all 4 wheels on the ground, but not really recommended. DO NOT tow on a dolly - period.

personally, i have never used a torque wrench or anti-sieze on my plugs, altho the anti-sieze may not be a bad idea - doesnt require a lot, just a thin coating. hand thread the new plug until you hit "bottom" - plug should turn easily, if it doesnt, DO NOT force it!! - then use your wrench to snug up about a 1/2 - 3/4 turn or so - no need to really crank them down - thats where problems occur. a little trick i use to start plugs correctly is to turn the plug backwards (as in removing) with very slight pressure, until i feel it "pop" into the threads - (this also works well for fasteners that are easily stripped - like screws into plastic...) if you run into a problem removing the old plugs - give a small squirt of PB Blaster to the plug hole, hook your wires back up and run the car for a few minutes to warm it up a little - be careful not to burn yourself, but try removing the plug when it is still warm, should be easier. Good luck

another product is "Goof-off" - similar to Goo-b-gone, but works a bit better imho. have used it many times on big trucks, removing old stickers & lettering - no problems with it harming the finish, altho it does leave a slightly oily residue that will need to be washed off.