Chip

This may be a stupid question but did you remember to disconnect the battery for a few minutes in order to reset the ECU ?

OK...So how do I post an image from Image station ? I've tried it once already and it didn't work.

As requested...here's a picture.. http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2088351653

My 98 O/B wagon has been slower than a dog for over a year. Even on slight grades with the cruise control on,(set to 65mph), it would downshift just to stay at 65. when loaded up with the kids, dog, and all the other stuff, it could hardly get out of it's own way. I did the knock sensor relocation thing yesterday and VOILA !! It's like I'm driving a brand new vehicle. I relocated the sensor to a small metal tab at the back of the motor close to the firewall and unhooked the battery for 15 minutes to reset the ECU. The change is dramatic...I'm thinking that because my car has 300K+ on it, and that it clacks like a Kenworth ,all the time, the sensor thought it was knocking and was backing off the timing....or maybe the sensor had simply crapped out.

The steering wheel badge is upside down !!! You have one of those OWOW wheels right ?

That's right...our subaru's didn't come with Passive restraint systems but they did come with a case of beer.

Man!!! I knew they were slow but....21 seconds in the 1/4 mile ?? My 78 VW beetle would beat that pulling an airstream trailer !!

I've never seen an automatic 2.5L outback kick butt. Even the 2007 is as slow as a pregnant sloth. Interesting article in the Consumer Reports "new car" edition. The 5 slowest cars we've ever tested.......that's right..the 2.5L O/B is on the list. I'm reminded of it every time I mash the gas on my 98 O/B. My Impreza 5 spd is a bit better but I still wouldn't risk getting embarassed by a Honda. I love my Subies...when I'm not in a hurry.

This is probably old news by now but these are the first pics I've seen of the next Impreza...... Same HP as the last generation, smaller brakes, bigger car....seems like they're heading in the wrong direction. In the last comparison test I read in one of the magazines,("most fun for around $25K" ,I think it was called), the WRX finished way back...something like 5th out of 6 cars. http://www.caranddriver.com/autoshows/12768/2008-subaru-impreza-and-impreza-wrx-official-photos-info.html

That only takes into account the gear ratio of the gear you're in at the time. What about the final gear ratio ?

...or...you could make a chalk mark on the tire where it meets the road...and another chalk mark on the road then slowly move the car forward until the chalk mark makes one full revolution. Mark that spot on the road again and measure the distance between the 2 marks. Let's say the distance between the marks is 6 ft. That means that every 6 ft, the tire,(and the half shaft), make one revolution. So....every mile,(5280 / 6), they rotate 880 times. So...if you're going 623 MPH... your shafts are spinning 548,240 rph ....or 9,137 rpm. Wow.

I have exactly the same problem on my 98 OB. It's been doing it now for over 2 years...I'm so used to it now that I always pop it into neutral when I get to a red light. I put Mobil 1 syn tranny fluid in, hoping it would fix it but it didn't change anything. Good luck.

The easiest and most foolproof way of validating your speedo is by using the odometer. Go to the nearest highway which has markers every 1/10 mile,(all interstates have 'em), and as you pass by one of the mile markers, set your trip thingy to zero. Drive about 10 miles to the next mile marker and compare your mileage. If your trip odometer says 11 miles, your speedo is reading too fast,(about 10%)...if less, than your speedo is reading too slow.

I thought I had read somewhere that it's impossible to drain more than 3 or 4 litres from the tranny. It holds 10 Litres but only 3 or 4 can be drained....the other 6 or 7 need to be pumped out. I also read somewhere that they only started putting transmission oil filters on in 1999.

It seems to me you'd notice that your dashboard lights aren't on ????? .....and the DRL are nowhere as bright as the headlights.

My 98 O/B did the same thing. You might want to start by squirting something like "liquid wrench" or "loosenut" onto the shaft where it comes out of the window,(remove the little plastic cover first). Turn the wiper on and help it go back and forth by gently pulling/pushing it. You may have to do this several times. I eventually had to take the motor out. Here's a hint...buy a cheap 10mm box wrench and heat it with a torch then bent it into an almost horse shoe shape...it'll make your life a lot easier when it comes time to get some of the motor mount bolts out. Once the motor is out you can take it apart and clean it. 90% of the time the motor stops working because the output shaft is corroded. Put the sandpaper to it, grease the heck out of it and re-assemble.

Because they're ugly maybe ?

I had my HGs done,(98 O/B), for $1200 Cdn. Including new plugs, timing belt, crank and camshaft seals. I didn't go to the dealer but instead, went to a local garage who had already done the same work on Subarus before. He was going to use Felpro gaskets but I told him to get them from Subaru....they were about $75 more. It's been 5000 kms..so far so good.

Canadian Tire sells cans of stuff called Rust Check,(or something like that), for around $7. Every year I buy 2 or 3 cans and spray everywhere underneath, around the engine compartment, inside the rocker panels, doors and tailgate. It remains sticky so it doesn't drip out from all the cracks after being applied.

Ranger is right. If they were so great, they'd be installed at the factory. If Subaru could gain event 1 or 2 MPG AND increase HP by even 1 or 2% by installing a so called "low restriction" air filter don't you think they'd do it ? Ditto for the so called "cold air intakes".

My 98 OB had the dreaded symptom of oil in the coolant resevoir so I had the head gaskets changed,(along with the timing belt, camshaft seals,and crankshaft seals). I had it done for $1100 Cdn at a local independant garage. I just thought it might be useful information for those who are thinking of having it done. I'm at 260,000 kms.

The difference in stroke between a Diesel and Gas engine is actually quite small. Example. VW 1.9T,(gas)..stroke = 3.65 in. VW TDI = 3.76 in.

The power from the 2.5L ,(165HP), is only "adequate", especially with the Automatic tranny. Here's what a few auto journalists have said...(about the Baja or the Legacy). .."While the 165-horsepower engine was adequate for the Baja, all the journalists kept talking about was how much better it would be with the more powerful flat six engine from the Outback H6 3.0"...http://www.roadandtravel.com/roadtests/reviews/2003roadtests/subarubaja.htm "A bit sluggish in nonturbo 4-cyl models: Test Legacy 2.5 GT took 9.9 sec 0-60 mph. Subaru pegs 4-cyl Outbacks at 10.5. The 6-cyl models are also quicker--8.5 sec 0-60 for test VDC wagon--but lack midrange power. In all models, automatic transmission is slow to downshift for passing. " http://auto.consumerguide.com/Auto/New/reviews/full/index.cfm/id/37617/Act/Roadtest/ "...the Baja is fun to drive and kind of practical, if you're not in a hurry." http://www.trucktrend.com/roadtests/wagon/112_0211_baja/ Initial logbook entries target the tepid 2.5-liter SOHC four-cylinder engine, which delivers decidedly weak acceleration for a near-$30K car. http://motortrend.com/roadtests/oneyear/112_0004_ltsuburu/ I could go on......If anyone tells you the 2.5L powered Legacy is "quick" it's probably because they've been driving diesel VW Rabbits all their lives. However......my 98 O/B has 230,000KMs on it so I can't complain about the build quality. I have no regrets...only wishes. With gas at ~$2.50/gallon, I'm willing to give up a bit of performance.

Subaru has gone from making some of the slowest, most boring cars on the road,(96-04 Legacys and O/Bs), to making some of the most exciting. The new Legacy Turbo is a rocket ! 14.2 Sec in the 1/4 mile !!http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=15&article_id=8550&page_number=3 Finally, a practical car with nads !! As far as the boxer engine goes...if there really are so many advantages to using it, how come almost no one else is ?

That's right....just about every manufacturer makes sure that the engine intakes it's air from the most ideal place in the engine compartement....That was my point. A $200 tube with a filter on the end won't improve something which a team of factory engineers spent months working on. And like you said.. "The sound improves vastly, and the throttle response is sharpened, but HP gains are minimal". Here's an idea that might get you a few hp....take a stick,(you could use the one I pull out of my rump roast), and shove it into the catalytic convertor a bunch of times,( if your car has one), until it's gutted. It'll definitely free up the exhaust flow a bit....(although that would be illegal and environmentally incorrect).