Steptoe's photos

knock, knock ...Masai ?????

also interesting to see some listings suggest that this relay is a fuel pump relay for some Subaru models, and a glow plug relay. Ferret54's suggestion of the intermotor relay - it shows as rated at 30A - I seem to recall Toyota Landcruiser diesel glow plug circuits are 80A. a supersession part is 25232AA020 according to one website, and curiously, offered at about half the price of 25229AA001

I observed your idea, pulled the air box off to get easy access to undo O2 plug, got the single cat out to inspect. Looked good. Cleaned up more grounds - the two front chassis rail ones, and the ABS bracket ground. Installed new air filter element as a matter of service while in there. Hopped in to start. Cranked, but no start. Pulled the new NGK plugs to find a bit black from the start up with MAP disconnected, tried 0.8mm gapped spare spark plugs. No change. That was a month ago.

OK, now I can see it is a whole month since this event. Today she fired up ! I found sooty spark plugs from the MAP being disconnected, but fitted another set of smaller gap 0.8mm plugs, still no start I have been testing the relays on the bench, using an air horn compressor spinning freely, then partly blocking it's output to load things up - to the point of blowing 15A fuses on the 22A relays. I did the same for each side of the double throw main relay. Today, I thought I would test a few outputs of the relays in place. I went to start, but nothing, just crank. Then I noticed the fuel pressure gauge was not registering any pressure. I forgot to install the main relay Fitted the original main relay. Now she starts. Next will be to see if poling and prodding wires near underbonnet ECU causes any issues. Then see if 3,000 rpm stationary does anyhting bad. Next, a test drive up hill - in case I need to roll home.

Good to know. Is Intermotor a rockauto line ? Or is this as in International ?

These things use an OBDii socket for the Subaru Select Monitor access, the manual by Subaru refers to it as the OBDii socket, but got no evidence they were OBDii compliant at this date. I can very occasionally get access to a Snap-On tool , about 2019 version. It would not be in the right hands although I once put it through a 92 wire TT Supra ECU for some amazing insight to it working. Very happy sitting in my EA82T without an ECU as it is !! Oh, DVOM another acronym for a DMM ? Been doing that before the beast decided to play up on me 200 km later. If it ever runs again, I plan to patch into those three wires to see what traverses along them. Already picked out matching colours with correct trace colour for the patch

Has anyone got the specs on these common to EJ Subarus ? They are a double throw and I would like to test each throw to their maximum rated Amperage fault chasing. AJapanese parts supplier online states these as being discontinued

I am wondering if there are any immobiliser emulators out there that will work in bypassing suspect factory immobilisers. I have had an intermittent, momentary engine cut that seemed to be load sensitive at times, BUT now going over the whole thing chasing the issue, other tiny things are happening, to the point I now have a no start, cranks over but no start. The 1999MY EJ202 Forester AUDM owner manual says you can do a check of immobiliser function by observing the key shaped light anti theft warning light with just the IGN ON position. If it glows (or flashes) we have a problem. Mine checks out OK. But, due to no start, I need to rule more sheisse out of the equation. At this stage, I won't be doing an EJ conversion to my EA81 bodies

If I am correct , our market in Australia got the first Forester in 1997 - without immobiliser anti theft module. The 1998 and on got them. Who knows what is cut? Is it just an injector cut or is spark also prevented ? Reading the workshop manual, I found that if there is a malfunction of the immobiliser circuit, the key shaped dash light will light up (or flash ?) in just the IGN ON/ENG OFF status of the ignition switch. Just wondering if I do have immobiliser issue that is keylight shy, would I expect power at the coil with IGN ON, but not cranking

and when people talk about Threebond - there are quite a few to choose from. I only just found mine last night, trying to sneak out the door on it's own 1104, you come back here right now ! It is a runny, highly pongy, grey sealant that needs an overnight to set. Curious what other numbers youse use

a BRAT or anything with EA81 - all you need for reliability is an ignition module spare and two flat blade screwdrivers to swap it in if spark ever stops

It would be a decade since someone sold me "low km strut inserts" . One turned out to be a dud, for starters. Then, I discovered my 84 did not even have replaceable inserts. Off to the bin they both went. Not the first time I have been ripped off by fellow Subaru cyberspace participants. What I did was install EA82 front struts, complete with their EA82 coil springs and strut tops. I used an old EA82 strut top as a drilling guide, one stud removed to drill through while, one, then both remaining studs used in the original front EA81 hole, then newly drilled rear side hole of the three stud mounting. EA81 are two stud mount. The EA82 strut only needed some emery paper treatment to remove 0.25mm of paint and some metal in order to fit into the EA81 front knuckle.

I am starting to wonder what version of three or four EA82T you have there. Does your distributor have a vacuum advance canister on the side? That would make it Series 1 (1985, 1986 models in several countries) Flapper style air flow meter (series 1) or hotwire , cylindrical air flow meter (series 2 flat manifold, series 3 spider manifold)

now, due to the complex differences in wiring of the distributor of the 1987 models, there was a change mid year, can you look at the part number cast into the side of your distributor ? I think the first part may be 22100 AA , and the variation is in the last three digits. I am expecting either 410 or 450 , yet also prepared for something close ....

In the diagram for the coil, there is no igniter shown or referred to, from memory it is all attached ? for 87 USDM XT, may not be same as non XT !!!!!!!!!! Lucky for some, there are only four wires at the coil, and two are BW The pair that are WY and BW WY goes to WY at ECU. Two wires both WY at ECU, pins 37 & 43 BW to BW at ECU pin 19 The pair that are BW and plain old Y The BW goes to (radio?) condensor which has a B grounding wire also The Y of this pair goes to the tacho in the dash cluster. Y all the way to dash pins by the looks

The secret here is we rarely really need to work on our Subaru's. I have only had one or two of these Mitsubishi relays fail on me in 25 years, and really do not think I will find one to be my problem with this SF Foz either. I made a test bench using spare relay plug, spare switch to switch the coil of the relay. Relay is powering up an air horn compressor sans trumpet. Powers the compressor just fine, until I start to block output air pipe. Loaded up enough to blow my plentiful supply of 15A blade fuses. Yet to test my resettable blade fuse I bought yesterday, rated at 20 A. Should be a fair test for 22A relay.

I knew I had a post on the net somewhere with info to update. I found to remove two blue plugs at the top front face of fuse board, unclip lower side retainer clips, the board drops away on a cord of wires. Then, you can get to two 10mm nuts to drop the fuse board hanger, complete with relays. Despite my practice run on the wreck, in confined spaces, sun beating down on my twisted and contorted body - I missed the ingeneous little clips to flick these relays loose. Closer study of mine in better circumstances revealed this ... Simple as a belt buckle, flick the red bit over the green and it opens up to release the relay. I coloured the bits up with permanent marker while it was open - for best instructional display

I went right through to the water pump in EA82 with what I termed EA82M , M for Mongrel as it ran EA82T heads, cams, intake for the dual port breathing in capabilities, on a carb block, running Impco fueling system for propane. To have a four pot rev out to 6,000 or 6,500 ever so quietly, extended the range of each of those 5 forward gears - likely never to go back to EA81 - except maybe to make my EJ20 Forester reliable !!

i am confused on your "module" - do you mean the wires between the distributor and coil ? Mine has an item close to or part of the coil bracket , called ignitor

Yellowy orange ones are in MY1999 and MY2001 NA EJ202 Forester with block mount ECU The grey came from 2000MY EJ20 GF8 RX Impreza NA They are different diameters also, s must be different manifolds and not interswappable Gotta wonder why ....

I hope my 1999 Forester issue does not go on for this length of time !

smooth yep, plugs down through them. Measured an eJ22 from a late 96 Lib and the bolt centres are around 185mm , 10mm shy of target, I like your thinking ...

substitute, superceded - all good excuses. I am finding gasket images do not look the same for starters. Eyeing off some silicone baking sheet or maybe thicker on a silicone baking dish ....

Thanks Bennie. I have 1998 MY wiring diags, and these tie in with 1999MY on most things. When I can get this Bermuda special running again, and sort it's massive whumping, intermittent engine/fuel/ignition cut, I will be back into this ....I think

Models can be confused when just using year as description due to post 31July each year becoming the Model Year MY for the following year. Do you also have a month of 1987 when yours was built? I have some diagrams, I also have an April 1987 EA82T I could look at to help interpret what you need