hatchsub

Im using a Hobart 140 mig and using flux core right now. I took some welding classes awhile ago but you wouldnt be able to tell by my welds lol. I am used to using gas and welding on a lot thicker of metal. As for overlaping, i didnt want to do that basically cause i was thinking it would create yet another place for water or moisture to gather. Maybe i over thought that though.

Yea that was the worst section on the whole car. I need to fix the areas behind both rear wheels and the other side right in front of the passenger wheel. And thanks for the complement. Remind me to never make a dogleg again!!! Oh and i cheated too. Every single piece of patchwork i welded in is from a spare camaro fender lol.

It would be a GL-10 not a GL but yes they did exist. Or when did they change over to the Loyale name? My EA82 knowledge is somewhat lacking.

Well seeing as how my car was getting rustier and rustier i made the wise move to invest in a welder. This will be the first of many posts in this thread as i go and fix more and more rust on this thing. This post is covering the start to finish of the dogleg section of the car (right in front of the drivers side rear tire).

What points you towards the fork? If you have satisfied yourself that it is not the cable/pedal binding up then you basically gotta pull either the engine or tranny and get to the route of the problem. If i remember right all this happened after you put the new clutch in? If thats the case then i think you gotta get in there and figure out what the problem is. It could be as simple as the clutch getting hung up on the splines. I highy doubt its the fork but i suppose it could be.

Looks like its time for you to get a welder lol. Seriously a welder is one of the best purchases ive made recently. Its the sole reason my subaru is going to be on the road still in 5 years or so.

There is a chrome spray paint. I have no idea how chromish it will be but thats basically all the original stuff was...painted chrome on plastic.

its in the craigslist/ebay for sale section since its on ebay. Very nice example of a brat. The price reflects the condition though.

Yea..fun Wanna send me over a rust free car there lol. I got more rust than i care to mention...even though im going to be taking pictures soon and posting them. Im playing with a new welder and its coming out decent actually.

Thanks Paul. Ill shoot her a message when i get a chance.

Just the opposite. The only way to get anything out of these motors is to rev the piss out em. If you constantly granny shift at 3-4 grand your missing the entire other powerband that these motors have. Not to mention hes not hurting anything. Anyways...check your clutch cable before jumping to clutch fork. If you didnt re-adjust after putting the new clutch in it might not be quite right.

Im doing some rust work on my subaru as some may know and just want to know if i should be leaving that big circular hole (the one in the middle of the rear support right in front of the rear wheels) open on the back to allow anything to get out. Both areas have been worked on in the past so its hard for me to tell what it once was. Was it open from the factory or should i close the rocker off? This is the hole on the back side of the rocker if anyone has any doubts.

Damn lol. I was close-ish.

EA81 hitachi manifolds: '81(some)-'87 Brats '82-'89 hatchbacks '82-'84 sedans/coupes EA82 hitachi manifolds (non-turbo any body style) '85- (not sure when they switched over to all fuel injected 88?)

Put a want ad up for a weber in the classifieds on here. You can probably get a used on a lot cheaper if your in a pinch. I justified spending because its my dd and im not planning on getting rid of it anytime soon.

Ive done it before when i did rear disks in my camaro (not redoing all the hardline but some) and i was anything but thrilled when i thought i would have to do it again. Its a pain. Anyways i think ill go the route of 2 valves on the rear lines in the engine bay since subaru was nice enough to have fittings already there for me.

Most likely accessories fuse. I dont have a electrical book in front of me but it will most likely be a 20 or above. They should all be marked on the cover of the fuse box as to what they do. Just pull ones out till you find the one that blew. As i already said though thats not your problem. That fuse just kept you from having a bigger problem.

one of the fuses blew. What do u mean "adjusting wires"? You most likely have a bare wire somewhere up there and grounded it out. Check your fuses. Im sure the one for accessories or interior lighting fuses is blown. Dont bother replacing it until you fix the reason it blew otherwise you will continue to fix the same blown fuse.

Dual-diagonal? Sorry but could u explain to me how that works? I was under the hood and tried to figure it out and couldnt really lol. So with this system there is not one line coming out of the master for the rears and one for the fronts like my camaro? I did see two lines coming out of the master but they dont get divided up like that? EDIT: Just looked it up on car dictionary. Thats an interesting setup. I didnt realize that they had a brake system like that that hooked up the front brakes with the rear brakes diagonally across. So im assuming that is the main reason that i cant just use one adjustable prop valve on one of those lines coming out of the master. I can however put one prop valve on each rear line in the engine compartment? Ok. got it... i think lol.

Heres another idea of what you could do. This is how i did mine. Sounds great. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/724118/3

Night bump. Anyone got suggestions about this?

I would. EA81s are great motors and the coupes are fun cars. Keep looking a 5 speed will turn up eventually. As for the EA82T...well...do a search on here and you can find out what a good portion of the board thinks of that motor. I think you will have far less trouble with the EA81 than the EA82T..even with the low mileage.

I found when shopping the bigjim (board name on here in the vendor section) had as good if not better prices on webers than other places. He works at Overseas in Vancouver Canada and i think i paid 365 before shipping for my weber. His tech support is great too as i needed some tuning in the form of different idle jets and he sent me a few different idle jets to try out. Also i would recommend his throttle shaft bearing kit to get rid of the stupid plastic bushings that are installed in webers and replace them with bearings.

wow never saw this thread until today. Guess im pushing the oil changes out a bit farther now. Good timing for me to find this thread...im unemployed as of this week

That basically sums it up right there. I have NEVER seen a 2wd EA82 turbo anything in the yards where i live. When Skankinpickle offered up the set of rear disks i jumped on em since i doubt ill find another set for a long time. I have no clue what they are off of. As for the valve, i saw two ways of doing an adjustable prop valve which i would like to discuss. One involves two prop valves on each of the rear lines in the engine bay. Looks like subaru made it easy for me even by having some fittings right before the lines go into the firewall. This would probably be the easiest way for me but more expensive since it involves two valves instead of just one. The other way i was thinking would be to put an adjustable prop valve right below the master on one of the two lines coming out of the master cylinder. This brings up the question of whether or not that will work however. Also which line is which coming out of the master (front line for the rears and rear line for the fronts like most cars?) and would it work to have the stock valve and an adjustable right in front of it.