Bmm001

Like I said, I do not know what was and was not done/looked at until I call them tomorrow. Brian

I agree, I want more of an explanation and maybe it's there and we're just not getting it if they were talking over my mom's head. We're going to call tomorrow, and if they don't know I'm calling the place where I bought my car from, who also specializes in Subarus.

Don't have much of an update, but a few questions/notes: So they wouldn't be able to pull the check engine code if it's in limp mode? Didn't get very far today. My mom had it up and they talked to her about a bunch of stuff but couldn't give a definitive answer, they needed to do some research... only one of them was there today so he was a bit swamped. She had no idea what he was talking about so she couldn't really repeat it to me or my dad. He can go off on tangents, and I'm the only one that usually is interested/understands what he's talking about ha ha. She said they plugged it into something (possibly trying to read the code), but that's about all she could say other than they said it should be OK to drive (even though we won't much until we get some answers). She remarked that it seems like the trip meter doesn't change (along with the speedo not moving) but the odometer does. It also shut off on her again on the way home from the garage. One of us will call tomorrow to see what they're talking about and see how we need to proceed. Brian

I'll keep everyone posted as soon as I hear something from my dad. I believe the alternator was replaced way back when it was new due to Subaru's alternator recall program. Thanks for all the input so far! I'll be interested to hear if the CEL and the shutting off and the speedo not working are all completely related, but it sorta sounds like that's a good possibility. Brian M.

Any input would be greatly appreciated: My mom's '98 Legacy wagon 5-speed with 135,000 miles SHUT OFF as she was downshifting/decelerating while coming up to a traffic light. She restarted it, and the Check Engine Light came on. She mentioned smelling a weird, burning type odor (sorry that's all the description I have at this point). Here's the weirder part: Her speedometer no longer moves! Just sits at "0". My dad drove it around the block once she got home, and as he slowed to enter the driveway, it shut off again. He said the engine runs and drives fine, and other than the Check Engine Light and non-functional speedometer. We're taking it to our independent Subie mechanic first thing tomorrow morning, but we're wondering if anyone here has any ideas in the meantime. Is the speedometer registered and controlled electronically? Blown fuse= burning odor? What would cause the car to suddenly shut off and could it be related? Knock sensor was replaced about a month ago, but other than that we've not had any major issues with the car in quite some time. Thanks, Brian

Are you talking about hydraulic lifters? I've heard they tick if they're not "filled" properly. This article on Endwrench talks about it: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Valve07MayEW.pdf Brian

Yes, we like our Subarus here in PA! Brian

I second the suggestion about checking all 4 CV boots! I had strange steering wheel/front end vibrations and it turned out my driver's side axle was going bad at the inner joint (boot was torn), which can cause weird vibrations and slight binding. My Subie mechanic says the inner joints don't make noise when they go bad like an outer joint does. As the axle itself or the inner joint wears out, it gets more and more play in it which is transferred as looseness and vibrations. He felt the play by grabbing and shaking the axle when it was up on the lift. Not complaining too much though, 138K on the original Subaru axle (he confirmed it was) isn't bad! Brian

It's great to have a friend who knows about cars and required service when making major financial decisions like the purchase of an automobile. Forums like this are also a wonderful resource. Second and even third opionions are invaluable, especially if what someone is telling you is wrong doesn't make sense. Example: My girlfriend's '02 Corolla has had 3 catalytic converters since she's owned the car (2 1/2 years) and probably didn't need any of them--never lost any MPG or performance or any indication that there was actually something wrong with the converter other than PO420. My guess is no actual diagnostics were ever done other than reading the code and saying "That code means you need a new catalytic converter." She finally (at my urging), took her car to a different mechanic and the only problem he found was a slight leak at the exhaust manifold gasket. Reset the P0420 CEL (this was 600 miles ago) and it hasn't been back on since. Needless to say she'll never take her car back to that garage for service, and has to wonder how much other unnecessary and overpriced work has been done on her and her family's cars over the years. Brian M.

The verdict: Mechanic drove the car, felt some slight binding. Put it up on the lift and shook the drive axle... TONS of play. All the rest of the suspension components solid and tight. Replaced the axle, and it drives like it's 30,000 miles younger! He said in their experience, bad outer CV Joints click, while bad inner joints (mine had a torn boot) don't make noise but show up as binding and wobble through the steering wheel. I didn't realize how much free play my steering wheel had until I got in it with the new axle and was amazed at how tight and responsive the steering was again! Brian

Thanks for the input. I'll definitely have them check all those things out for me while it's up on the lift. They're replacing a CV boot anyway so they will be looking at all those suspension components. It's very possible I knocked something out of whack driving around the suburbs of Philly a few weeks ago--some of those roads are bad! I sure hope it's not a bad tire, but the wheels were allegedly balanced properly by Subaru at the beginning of June. If all the suspension components check out as OK, I guess we'll have to consider a bad or out-of-balance tire/wheel. They don't seem to be wearing funny but I guess it's possible. Brian

Some background: 1995 Subaru Legacy 138,500 miles. Got my wheels balanced and an alignment performed by Subaru mid-june. Got my front pads replaced and rotors resurfaced at the end of June by my independent shop. I have a wobble in my steering that seems to come and go randomly as I drive. It does not seem to be related to speed. Sometimes it wobbles a lot between 30 and 40 MPH and then smoothes out randomly as speed increases. Even at highway speeds it seems to come and go. Sometimes it stops wobbling after I come to a stop at a light and then start up. If I threw a wheel weight or have a bent wheel, wouldn't it wobble all the time? I ask about a sticking caliper because sometimes the wobble seems to come and go after a brake application (slowing or stopping). Also, yesterday, I heard a loud click after I parked my car and got out (this was about 30 seconds after the car was parked and shut off). It did it twice yesterday in the same situation, and also this morning as I got out of the car to go into my office. Could the click be something "unsticking?" I haven't noticed a decrease in gas mileage so if something is sticking wouldn't I notice that? Is it possible something in the steering/suspension is bent/out of whack? I don't hear any weird noises when driving or steering (I know what a bad wheel bearing sounds like) or clunks. I'm going to my shop today for an oil change, and want to know what types of questions to ask so they can take a look. Thanks in advance, Brian M.

'95 and earlier are great years also because the engine is non-interference. If the timing belt breaks, you won't have bent or broken valves. Plus, with a '95 you have the newer, more attractive (in my opinion) body style and a bit more room and features than the 90-94's. My '95 sedan (bought it in '04 with 82,000 miles, it has 138,000 now) is great and I've only ever replaced a water pump aside from routine maintenance. Brian M.

Could a small amount of coolant be evaporating due to a loose radiator cap? Although, I'd think the pressure test would have revealed the bad cap. Are you saying the coolant is below the "L" line in the reservoir when you top it off? I was always told as long as it's between the 2 lines you're fine--someone correct me if I'm wrong. If the engine hasn't fully cooled off when you check, it might not have all drained back in giving a false reading. Brian

Is it normal to lose even this small amount of coolant over time if there aren't any leaks? The only time we've ever added coolant to one of our Subarus was when a water pump started leaking... Brian

I was thinking of upgrading my '95 as well... until my mechanic talked me out of it for the following reasons: 1. Non-interference engine 2. Easy emissions inspection requirements relative to even a '96 or '97 (at least here in PA)--since it's a '95, basically if the gas cap works right and there's no check engine light, it passes. 3. This is perhaps the most compelling argument: I've had it for 4 years, have been super-attentive in the maintenance department, and the worst that's ever happened was bad water pump at 92K other than routine maintenance (brake pads, plugs, tires, etc.) There's a lot of merit to the argument that it's better to have an older car that you "know" and has been taken care of right than to gamble on a slightly newer used car that you have no idea about Subarus are tough, but I've always felt they require just a little specialized knowledge to be maintained properly, compared to a Toyota or Honda. Things like: you can't replace just one or two tires if you want your AWD to remain functional, the proper way to change coolant and eliminate air bubbles to keep so you don't blow a head gasket, and which parts you can get away with aftermarket and which you can't. I'd love to have a newer car, but as long as my '95 faithfully serves me, I'll keep it. Not to mention I can't afford car payments! I agree with the others, the seller is dreaming if they think an '03 with that many miles is worth $12,500! If you're having trouble with your '95 or really want a new car and can afford it, take your time if at all possible. Drive a bunch (I drove 8 different cars before I settled on mine) to see what you like and what you don't. Case in point: my brother thought he wanted a Forester, drove one, and hated it. He loves his 99 Outback Sport. If you're seriously considering a particular car, take it to a mechanic you know and trust (preferably one who's familiar with Subies) to thoroughly look it over. It's definitely worth even $40 or $50 to do this. Drive it in tight figure eights in a parking lot to make sure it doesn't have torque bind too. Good luck and keep us posted! Brian

My independent shop thinks a lot of idle and stumbling/missing problems and even CEL's are due to poor quality gas. Many of us here drive Subies from the 1990s--that was before the era of 10% ethanol across the board (don't think it was standard in PA before a year or two ago, for example). Is it possible that these engines just don't run as well in general with the current gasoline formulations? My mom and dad often fill their cars up at one particular chain of gas stations, and have intermittent check engine lights and stumbling issues. I never fill up there, and have had far less of these troubles. Coincidence? Maybe, maybe not. Brian M.

Yes. This link does a pretty good job of explaining which engines are susceptible: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71362 Brian M.

500 RPM sounds on the low side for idle speed to me. Hopefully others who know more than me will chime in with some ideas but it sounds like something to get checked out before your warranty period expires. Brian

I had also meant to ask whether this rough idle condition was present or noticed at the time of purchase? Also, does it always idle roughly or just when cold or hot? Is it a clatter, a click, or a knocking sound? Clatter or rattle could be loose exhaust heat shields. I'd take it to a trusted mechanic for a "listen" and a drive. I'm not as familiar with the maintenance intervals on the newer soobs, but I'd probably start with plugs and fuel filter (if they're 30,000 mile plugs--or at least check their gap & condition) and an oil change. A new PVC Valve and air filter might be a good idea too. I just reread the second post... am I reading correctly that the sound is noticeable inside the car but not outside? I also go back to asking does it simply idle roughly or does it rev and drive poorly as well? This thread brings up a good point: When buying a used car, what types of maintenance are good "insurance" to perform soon after purchase, unless you know they've been done? When I bought my '95 I asked for an itemized list of what services and repairs were done before they sold me the car, so that gave me a good starting point. I'm thinking oil change, ATF / manual trans fluid, coolant/T-stat, new air filter, for starters? Mileage (if it's approaching a 30, 60 or 90K interval) would dictate additional things like plugs/wires, fuel filter, etc. in my book, unless I experience a problem like 90legacywagon is describing in his initial post. Brian

Subarus aren't terribly quiet or smooth at idle in my opinion, compared to say a Camry or Accord. That being said, I agree that at this age and mileage it's about due for a tuneup anyway. Perhaps get a second opinion from someone familiar with Subarus? See if they think it sounds unusual other than just being in need of new plugs, etc. You didn't mention whether it revs and drives smoothly. Is it simply a lumpy, noisy idle, or does it run poorly overall? Brian M.

They're charging up my A/C and doing my front brakes on the 23rd, I'll have them take a look then. The engine is pretty dirty so it would probably be hard to tell whether it's a fresh leak or not. In any case I'm not too concerned. If my shop says yes, they're leaking again, I'll ask them to correct in good faith. They're very good with that sort of thing. Brian

I don't know what the gasket looked like. Yes, my shop does use aftermarket parts (mainly napa I think).

Thanks for all the replies. Horcrest, yes, it's very possible they just saw evidence of the past leak and made an assumption. Makes me think of the time my friend's son took his '95 sedan in because his A/T was acting up and they told him he needed a new tranny. My shop discovered that he was simply 2 quarts low on fluid and had a slight leak that was easily repairable for a grand total of $100. Subaru didn't even check the fluid level... He drove the car another 30K and retired it at over 200K for another Subaru. I will ask my shop to check the bolts. I know that the separator plate has a little drip, and have known that for a while now, and until there's a puddle of oil under the car I'm not going to worry about it. Brian M.

That's what I figured. I took a good look at my engine and The gasket covers both look dry to me! There's definitely some leakage from the separator plate area but its not dripping onto the ground. I'll say something to my shop but doesn't seem like something to worry about at this point.