Bmm001

Had my '95 legacy sedan (136,000 miles) to the dealer this morning for an alignment (my independent subie mechanic doesn't do them) and as part of their courtesy check they told me that my valve cover gaskets are leaking. The problem is, I just had them replaced in October (11,000 miles ago) by my independent. How do I tactfully handle this situation? If, indeed, they are leaking again, I do not feel that I should have to pay to get them fixed again. Observations/questions: They must not be leaking much if they are at all, because there's no drips under the car and i only get a whiff of burnt oil smell every now and then (from it dripping onto the heat shields/exhaust. Subaru also says that my oil separator plate (rear main seal?) is also leaking, but they'd replace the valve cover gaskets and degrease the underside before determining whether to proceed with the rear seal. My independent has mentioned the oil separator before as well, but doesn't seem concerned, especially given the age/mileage of the vehicle. I also don't think it must be very bad because I've never been low on oil even right before an oil change. Are either of these problems even a big deal? I'm trying to balance out my repair bills (I'm getting the A/C recharged and my front brakes done later this month, and will have the timing belt/water pump done by fall), and determine which types of repairs are truly necessary with this old of a vehicle. I appreciate any input. Thanks, Brian M.

Asking about wheel covers was my first thought! My plastic wheel covers are driving me insane now that it's warm and I'm driving with my windows open. I've tried each cover on each wheel to no avail. If you do in fact have plastic covers, try switching them around and also check to make sure they're centered over the valve stem. Brian M.

If you do the math by hand, does it match what the computer is telling you? I'm the type that doesn't always trust what a computer readout tells me. How many miles have you driven so far? I've always heard that a brand new car won't get as good of MPG as one that has some miles on it and is properly broken in. I don't think you can really get any sense of your gas mileage until you've run 3-5 tanks through-- you said you just got the car, right? Remember that when you calculate your gas mileage by dividing the number of gallons you added into the number of miles driven, you're getting an average. Your computer readout is probably much closer to real-time, showing you how MPG fluctuates as you drive based on engine load, temperature, driving style, etc. The window stickers are an estimate only--even though the new test is more realistic, I doubt that too many people drive the way the test is conducted. There are just way too many variables--quality of gas, ambient temperature/humidity/barometric pressure, engine temperature (coolant, oil, etc.), load, weight, and the list goes on and on. In any case, I'd say if your pen-and-paper calculations over 4-5 tanks of gas match the car's computer average and it's still way low (and 13.5 sounds low), then I think it's worth getting checked out. Brian M.

My brother gets about 26-29 MPG in his '99 Outback Sport 5-spd. My dad gets 24-26 in his '97 sedan with an automatic. Brian M.

I average 23.5 MPG in mixed driving, up to a max of 28 or so on the highway. Best ever was 29.5. I'm sure it'd improve a bit with a new O2 sensor, but I can't justify putting lots of $$ into the car other than regular maintenence/inspection, etc. since I only plan to keep it for another 6-9 months. I replace the plugs, fuel filter, air filter, fluids etc. at the recommended intervals and keep my tires properly inflated. I have definitely seen an improvement in MPG and overall driveability/pep (what little pep a '95 automatic with 135K still has) since it's gotten warmer. I was averaging 21 around town over the winter, so an increase to 23-25 is a welcome improvement. I wish it were a little higher, but no other car I've ever driven in a Subaru's price range has that solid, "planted" feeling from behind the wheel. That's why my next car will still be a Subaru. Brian M.

mzsubaru, I sent you a private message with several independent Subaru dealers/mechanics that my family, myself, and friends who have Subarus have had great success with. Anyone elese in Central PA who wants their contact information, PM me. Thanks, Brian Montgomery

Good point. It is OBDII. I can deal with front 02 if it comes to that. Perhaps my gas mileage would perk up a bit from the 21-22 MPG I'm seeing around town right now? I know it's winter blend gas and it has been cold. But I can still get 26-28 on the highway, so I'm not terribly concerned. Brian

Is this normal, or a "soft" code? When I turn the key to start the car, it flickers right when the car tuns over and then goes out. Car is a '95 Legacy with 132K. As of late, it has come on for real about once a month, usually in 4th gear in overdrive, light throttle on a slight incline; I reset it by disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes. I've stopped bothering getting it reset at Autozone or the garage because I know what it will be: PO420. Am I delaying the inevitable O2 Sensor replacement? The car has always passed inspection and runs and drives just fine. Will they be able to tell anything at the garage when I get my oil changed on Thursday? Anything like stored codes or events, or have I erased all that by disconnecting the battery? I guess I just can't really justify putting a lot of money into diagnostics and sensors and/or a new converter for a 13-year old car as long as the light stays off for a while when it's reset. Any input or comments welcome. Thanks, Brian

Anybody else experience this? My '95 Legacy's gas guage works properly when I fill up at Sunoco's. Any other place, it drops like a stone. I have experienced this now for over a year, and have gone on and off Sunoco gas to test it. 2-3 tanks of other brand and it stops working correctly. 2-3 tanks back on and it works right. Could it be the combination of additives? Brian M.

I had the pipe rust out right at the connection between the resonator and 2nd cat, where the big shiny bolt is in your picture last spring. Took it to a custom exhaust shop and for $55 they welded in a new "flex pipe" (it's about 4 inches long) and it's been good as new ever since. I'd suggest taking to a trusted exhaust shop that does fabrication, or else you'll have a place telling you that you'll need a new cat and intermediate pipe. Brian

Or, you could try resetting the CEL and see if it comes back on. If it stays off, don't worry about it. Mine comes on every few months and I just reset it and forget about it until the next time it comes back on. Brian

Hydraulic. I belive the solid lifters started in '97. Brian M.

I would NOT buy this car... the fact that only 2 of the tires were replaced could mean that the previous ower didn't know anything about care of an AWD car. I can't help but wonder about the rest of the car's maintenence too. Can you find out how recently the 2 new tires were put on? If the dealer just did it, you might be OK if you get them to replace the 2 old ones. My brother had one mismatched tire on his '99 OBS for a week while we were waiting for the new ones to arrive from tirerack and it's fine. I think you should really test the AWD for binding and sticking by going in a parking lot, cranking the wheel all the way to the left, and creeping around in a circle, and then the opposite direction. Any hesitation, lurching, or noises means there is something wrong. If you really want this car, get everything in writing from the manager. That is, that A. they will put 4 matching tires on and B. If there's something wrong with the AWD, THEY should fix it, no charge. Brian

Went out to the dealer last weekend to get a look in person. I like them. Not the sedan. The sedan is ugly, and the proportions seem all out of whack. But I like the 5-door. It is not as uniquely "Subaru," and looks somewhat like a cross between a Focus hatch and Mazda 3 wagon. But that's OK with me because I like both of them. The new interior is also really nice, and I liked how flat the cargo area is thanks to the multilink rear suspension (new). There are a few things I don't like, however, and this goes for the new Subarus across the board. 1. The way the hood meets the windshield in the Impreza: It's a big pit (think 99' Chevy Malibu) that will probably fill up with a ton of snow and be a real pain to clear out. I don't know how else to describe it other than this but you'll know what I mean once you see it. 2. Why the dearth of color choices? The Impreza Outback, for example, is available in blue, gold, black, and silver... while I'm on the silver, a silver Impreza Outback with gray lower cladding is hideous. Across the line, there are about 4-5 colors available for most models, and even that can be less depending on the trim. For example, the base model Tribeca has 2 choices: blue or silver. What happened to reds and greens? 3. The slightly restyled Legacy and Outback grille is not as attractive as the '05-07 variant. It seems too big and gaping. I suppose all these choices have some sort of logic (($$) behind them, such as the lack of color choice (cheaper) and the hood (probably cheaper to manufacture), switching back to rear drum brakes on the base Impreza (a real step back especially since they've been disc since '02 if I recall). I'll be interested to see what Subaru's next step is. I was sorta expecting them to come out with a hybrid soon, given their somewhat "green" reputation and target market. Maybe their association with Toyota will move that ahead. Brian

My girlfriend found out the hard way that resetting the CEL right before getting it inspected doesn't work. She didn't drive it long enough to return it to the "ready" mode, so they couldn't test it right away anyway!

Is it still showing the PO420 code? My independent garage said the only time you actually have to worry about that code is when it's inspection time, if your state does emissions inspections. All of our Subies have over 120K with the original O2 sensors and converters, and we just have the light reset whenever it periodically comes on. Our guys say when they turn it off, so long as it doesn't come back on in a day or two there's nothing to be concerned about. Last time mine came on was July, before that, December. Interesting observation: I've had extended discussions about this and other similar problems with them. In their experience (over 20 years of just working on subarus), poor quality gasoline causes more problems with CELs and misses and generally poor performance than anything else on Subies. They also see PO420 when the weather suddenly changes (usually colder), or when it's raining or snowy and cold (water/snow splashing up on the converter and cooling it off too much). In any case, their first route if the code won't stay off would be to check the O2 sensor, then the converter. Brian M.

Well, the head sort of popped off when I tried to gently tighten it. I guess that means it was not in the best of shape... Is this as simple as getting a new screw, or should I have it looked at? Brian

Had my '95 Legacy sedan (126K) in for service on the 17th (lube/oil, new T-stat & cooling system service. They replaced the radiator hoses as well). I noticed a small wet spot on the driveway tonight, and after I opened up the hood, it appears that coolant is slowly leaking out of the bleeder screw on top of the radiator. What would cause this, and should I be alarmed? Coolant seems a bit low in the overflow reservoir as well, but not below the "low" line. Any advice would be welcome. I have a picture but can't figure out how to upload it. PM me and I can e-mail it to you. Thanks, Brian M.

I like them. No matter what Subaru, or any other car manufacturer, for that matter does, they're not going to please everyone. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. If you don't like it, fine, don't buy one.

Do they look like a Focus or Mazda 3? Yes. Are they as ugly as everyone says they are? No. I actually sorta like them. It all comes down to personal preference.

That price sounded awfully high to me anyway. Your post brings up a good point about Carfax, reinforced by a recent New York Times article. Not all states are required to report the same things; as a result Carfax can often miss major problems depending on the state, and if/how it's reported. The woman interviewed in the article bought a 2004 Chevy Monte Carlo and later found out, thanks to her mechanic, that it was TWO different cars welded together--and her Carfax report was clean. After reading the article, it certainly gives me second thoughts about trusting Carfax... I'm just as inclined to just take the car to my mechanic and have them look at it, especially since my state (PA) is one of the states that Carfax can't even get full information for! Seems as if the best way is still the old way of either going over the car yourself (if you have the know-how) or taking it to a trusted mechanic. Brian M.

My family has both; I can tell you that my dad's 97 Impreza definitely feels the fastest, by far, out of all our cars (95 Leg. sedan, 98 Leg. wagon, 99 Impreza Outback). And it's automatic. The handling and suspension are also much tighter. It's definitely the most fun to drive, and my dad gets 26 MPG in it (mostly city). Reliability and everything else has been as good as all of the Subarus we've ever owned. Brian

I like them. I was very excited to see the new Imprezas, in particular, because I'll be in the market for either an Impreza wagon or Forester in the next 2 years. The Tribeca is less weird-looking, but looks more generic-SUV. The legacies and Outbacks are OK, but I'm disappointed because you can't get a regular Legacy wagon in 5-speed. Actually, if I understand correctly, they are ceasing to make a regular Legacy wagon period starting in '08. I like the Imprezas because of some of their improvements in interior space and refinement, and also their slightly larger size. I'm not a big guy, but I definitely feel more confined in my dad's '97 Impreza compared to my Legacy sedan. Brian M.

Have you checked all the hoses? Could be a vaccuum leak... Brian

I just had the same issue with my '95 Legacy. Is there anything wrong with your cat? If not, there's no reason to replace it; same with the rest of the pipe. If not, it can probably be fixed VERY cheaply. I went to a local, reputable muffler shop, and my total cost was $53: They just fabricated and welded in a new "flex pipe." It's about 3 inches long, right where the cat connects to the rest of the exhaust. Brian