azsubaru

The radiator may be clogged as well after all those years. If it is, it's not that expensive, and easy to replace.

Don't know if you got this done, but I watched mine being removed by a professional. He pried the front passenger window out from the top and propped it out there with a wadded up rag, stuck a coathanger type wire with a hook on it in, snagged the keys, and had them out in about 2 minutes.

For some local help, you could try contactin Subynut, a member here who lives in Sierra Vista.

Try this first - it's easy to do, and no cost. You can get to the hoses behind the engine under the spare tire, if your engine compartment is similar to mine. Take off the hoses and either blow through or run water through with a hose.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26603 Northwet's post for fixing clocks

If it's normal for a radiator to not overflow with the cap off, even as it heats up, where is that extra volume of water going? Seems to me that water expands as it heats up and would easily overflow if not held in by pressure from the radiator cap. That's where the pressure comes from.

Impressive! That's probably due to the air being cleaner in Ticson than it is up here in Phoenix.

Sorry - I'm in Phoenix, but no garage. Hope you find one, it could be miserably hot out in the sun.

I'm sure automatics are capable of good gas mileage if you're careful how you drive. But my Loyale gets 28 MPG driving in street traffic every day, and I make no particular attempt to drive economically, plus it's had the CEL on for about two years. On a highway trip at 75-80, it gets 33. There are members here who claim as much as 39, and I just can't believe you could do that with an auto. At the very least, the revs seem to be higher vs a 5 speed for a given speed.

Seafoam cured my TOD, or at least almost cured it. I used a half a can in the crankcase, drove for about 500 miles, and then changed the oil. It still ticks sometimes, usually when I first start it up, and also for what seems weird to me, every time I jack the front end up, it will tick loudly for a few miles after I let it back down. You can also use a heavy weight oil to lessen the tick, although there seems to be some concern about whether that causes engine problems. I ran 60 Wt for about a year before I learned about Seafoam, and didn't notice any problems - but then I guess you wouldn't until years later...

Subarus with automatic transmissions don't seem to do well, the standards usually do pretty good.

Real common on these cars. Do a search for "lifter noise" and you'll find tons of threads.

Skip is absolutely right. Use Vice Grips to get to the screws that hold the IAC on, and it's and easy job. The power steering pump is in the way if you use a screwdriver.

When I turn my AC off or on, I hear some vacuum noises under the dash, so maybe a problem with vacuum somewhere. Sorry, I have never done any work in this area. If you disconnect the AC unit, you'll have problems with the defroster, because the compressor kicks in whenever you turn it on. But, if you want to do it, there's a 15 Amp fuse sitting in plain site in the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger side, and you can just pull it out. Easy to find, sitting up high, the only one there.

First guess - radiator. I just replaced the one in my 91 Loyale, same symptoms. You can get one delivered to your front door for about $130 in Phoenix. Mine showed up about 2 hours after I ordered it from radiator.com. You'll have to call them at 800-249-8720. 2nd guess - and I would check this first - water pump. Not expensive if you an do the work yourself, plus while you're in there, you can replace the timing belts.

Sounds like the speed sensor. This will cause a Code 33 of the ECU and turn on the CEL

Hey, which state are you in?

Yeah, I know what you mean about parts. Get to know a junkyard,er I mean an auto recycler, plus advertise on this board for parts. I think idle should be 750 - not sure about the automatic, I have a 5 speed. At least on mine, the idle screw is just where you say. You get to it from the front with a flat blade screwdriver, a little tight, but nothing major. Once you adjust that, you'll need to adjust the idle switch, which is part of the Throttle Position Sensor - the black thing on the driver side of the intake that has a rectangular electrical connector on it. I believe the technique is here on the board somewhere. It's technically easy, but takes a little time. You need a multimeter and have to loosen two screws to adjust it - It's a bear to get to them, too, but if the switch doesn't close it most likely won't idle right. I would consider running some Marvel Mystery Oil or SeaFoam through it to clean it out, too. Sounds like you got out of the idle control valve thing, but you usually can avoid buying a new one by cleaning them out - they get clogged up pretty easily.

Could be the idle switch needs adjusted or the Idle Air Control Valve isn't working.

Jack it up the entire front end, put it in neutral, and spin the wheels a few times in both directions. You should hear or feel some clunking or roughness if it's the CV joint.

Wouldn't disagree with that, either.

Sounds like a transmission problem, since it goes away when you disengage it.

Apparently Accell moved manufacturing a year or so ago. The old Accell coils were great - witness all the recommendations here. The new ones do suck - again, read the stories here and check how old the ones were that died. There was a thread here at one time the said if the top of the coil looks like it was crimped on, then it's was manufactured properly and is mostly likely a good one. If the top looks smooth around the edges, that's one of the new, poor quality ones. Mine was smooth, it died a very early death. I'm sure there are plenty of new Accells that don't die, but why take the chance? I"ve decided that i"m too poor to buy cheap stuff

Don't know about the big yellow cube coil, but Accell products are apparently no longer made in America, and in general, quality is an issue. I had an Accell 8140 that lasted less than 8 months before it died about a week ago. Check on this board and you'll find many people with Accell coil problems. For peace of mind alone, I would choose something else. When the coil dies, you don't go anywhere.

I just did this to my 91 Loyale yesterday. Used the Bosch Universal, 22.99 at the local Autozone and rent/borrowed the install tool from them. Managed to strip the threads and had to run out to Ace hardware for a Helicoil sparkplug thread chaser to fix that. Also, I had to disconnect the Y pipe from the motor and drop it down in order to get the new sensor in - it was longer than the original. That took about 2 minutes and would have been worth doing before taking the old one out.