wagonist

cheers. That would be helpful. I've done a lot of other research as well (I'm not one of those who expects others to help me without already trying to help myself first) & come up with nothing. Main problem is I've got a combination of engine & trans that wasn't readily available in this country.

Thanks. Was on the same line of thinking, but wanted to check. But still confused how having the D signal hooked up whilst driving would cause an error. Agree however that need to have N or P signal when starting. Ultimately, nodding the loom so the ECU thinks its got that correct trans would be best. Any ideas where to get diagrams to suit 90 model?

That link refers to SPFI & 3AT, neither are relevant to my vehicle. I'm aware that the ECUs are identical & that there is something in the loom that "tells" it whether the engine is connected to an auto or manual. Info about that "telling" is what I'm trying to find out. Skishop69, can you please clarify what your statement about D or N signal being pulled one way all the time. In my mind, having D selected all the time shouldn't be a problem as once a car is started, it would be expected that the trans is in D for 99.9% of the trip. I'm worried about hooking up the clutch to a N signal, as it might confuse things if a N signal is introduced whilst in motion as you change gears (even under no load)

Are you referring to the neutral switch on the manual trans or the auto? I think the auto gets it's neutral signal from the shifter. I've been doing some searching & came up with something similar for other manufacturers. I think it was have the wire to "D" hooked up, and then when the clutch was pressed, this got switched to a "N" signal. But then this meant the "N" signal came in every time you changed gears...

I've seen it mentioned several times about when you swap the 4EAT to a 5speed, that the ECU throws a CEL. But nothing about how to fix this problem. I'm looking to do this shortly & would rather get it right because I want the CEL to work properly. Car is 1990 model with EA82T

Datsuns of the 70s used to have this idea too. Got rid of it for a reason... Most driveshaft problems with Subaru are the fronts with too much angle on the inner CVs. BTW, for the rear the floating inner CV is also able to be used as the outer CV, so you could have 2 floating CVs on the same shaft, which gives a little extra length

in the hydraulic 3 spd? I know there's definitely that for the electronic 4 speed. BTW, if you happen to know which wire, that'd be helpful. I know others converting the 4 spd auto to manual have had issues with the check engine light coming on...

Look for ones from sedans and XTs as they were more likely to be FWD. wiring shouldn't be too difficult. Need to join the wires from safety switch in the gear selector and extend the reverse light wiring from the selector to the trans.

Springs sag over time, so yes an increase in ride height will occur with replacement springs. Even just jacking the car off the ground & lowering again will result in the car sitting higher (until it's driven again) And taking 50 or 60kg out of the front of the car, particularly when it's all in front of the wheels, will have a drastic effect on the ride height. This whole discussion is pointless if the engine's not in the car...

The first thing you need to do is determine whether the replacement struts you got are the same as what you removed. no point jumping to the conclusion of lowering engine, etc if this is what's wrong. A couple of possibilities come to mind: 1. the place you got the struts from mixed up the order. Did you specify FWD or 4wd? They are different 2. the supplier has given up making 2 different shock spring seat heights to suit the different vehicles 3. someone in the past modified the spring seats on your old struts You also need to tell us more info about what vehicle & specs you've got so we can help you.

Why is it too late? You've thrown away the old trans. You can get under the car & swap the trans harness over relatively easily. Trans should have the following switches: 4wd reverse neutral not sure about the other one. Try using a multimeter & unplugging the lights at the back of the car & trace the wire that way. then you just need to find a +12v wire with ignition on for the other side of the switch (I wouldn't have the engine running either)

As above, I'd pull all of the locks out of your car & get a locksmith to make new keys that's different to what you've got & then get the locks repined to suit that key. A bit fiddly, but a bit of googling will help (especially with pulling out the ignition barrel). In the meantime, I'd get used to removing the distributor cap (or at least the ignition lead from the coil to the cap) from your engine. Car won't run without it, and highly unlikely any thief's gonna bring a spare...

We need to know some more info. what trans did you have originally? auto/manual, FWD/4wd Personally, I would do this the "hard" way. Subaru changed so many things over the years, that you never know whether a diagram is correct or not. But the easiest way (if you had a manual single range trans) would be to pull the wiring harness off your original single range gearbox & fit that to the dual range gearbox. The switches will be in the same places on the casing. The only exception is a switch for the low range light, which I think was on the lever itself, not the gearbox anyway.

Pics please

There'll be a rubber flap on the inside that hangs from the top. It's not just there for hot days, it also allows the air pressure in your car somewhere to escape to when you close the doors. Now I'm trying to remember where they are for the sedan & wagon... More modern cars tend to hide them behind the rear bumper as there's more plastic there without externally visible metal.

That 200SX thing is for the rear brakes, not the front. I've got Honda Prelude calipers in the Loyale rear disc carrier. But I've got rear discs. tractor pole's post in that thread seems more likely using early Impreza caliper brackets.

If it's the outer CV that's gone (usually they are the ones that click when turning), then these are not designed to be dismantled by the home person. Which means buying a shaft also, so you may as well change the inner one

a mate of mine has mentioned something about using XT6 calipers on the Gen 1 turbo caliper bracket also (Liberty RS turbo in Aus). Is it possible to ask for the pic above to be in proper measurments (ie metric)? to the OP, have you seen the rear calipers on an XF Falcon? Pretty sure they were before the internal drum type handbrake & had a vented rotor. Might be easier to source that & make up an adaptor bracket?

Might have trouble finding a full rear setup in that part of the world. I've seen some pretty rusty ones on this forum over the years...

Before you get too much further, check that you haven't damaged the subframe that the arm hangs off. See the pic in Bratrod's post above. You can see the arm in the bottom left of the pic. EXCEPT, if you can, remove the other part of the arm with it intact. In the pic, you can see an arm in front of the wheel with 3 holes in the end. It's only held in with 1 bolt at the other end. Try to get these 2 arm pieces together. The 3 holes are where the "alignment" can happen, so buying it all bolted together means you may get away without the alignment being needed. Slightly more difficult to lift into place, but not that much harder. Your brakes will swap over to the new arm. Just makes sure you get 4wd rear arms, they are different to the FWD version Undo the axle nut. It's 36mm, though I've used a monkey wrench in the past & undo (not remove) this nut with the wheel on the ground & not jacked up. It'll be tight. Then jack up & remove the brake drum, only need 3x 14mm to hold the backing plate onto the arm. Should be 17mm bolt holding the shock, & then 17mm holding the arm onto the subframe. 10mm & 14mm pipe (flare) spanners for the brake lines.

Dfoyl, the rear hubs on a 2wd are similar to the front hubs on a RWD or like a trailer hub. There's no spline & the hub simply sits on bearings. Should be cheaper to make than a 4wd rear hub except that you've got to get the tapering correct. I think I've got some FWD Vortex rear hubs at home.

You don't want the Subaru diesel anyway. It's crap compared with the similar capacity diesel offerings from other manufacturers. They only did it to get the euro sales (mostly, hence there was not auto gearbox option for a few years) and a few other places like here.

You know there's someone on here making 5x100 rear hubs (which is the hardest part of converting except for moving the handbrake to the rear) ok, it's more work, but you get better brakes out of it

Don't remove the extra lines near the fuel tank. The 1/2" one is the fill vent so the air in your tank has somewhere to escape when refuelling. The other one is (eventually) connected to the charcoal canister in the engine bay.

How do you know it's got fuel? You've said how you've checked the spark. 3spd auto is hydraulic, 4 spd auto has a separate ECU in the rear left quarter panel. Engine ECU doesn't matter (depending on SPFI, MPFI, MPFI turbo of course) Should be a test mode with the check connectors that makes the fuel pump run regardless. My turbo wagon had this problem. ran kind of ok with check connectors joined. Ran ok on NA ECU, took me 3 times with turbo ECU to get it running. Also, there is some problem with some models with the fuel pump wiring. The earth side runs back through the ECU and can burn out. easiest fix is to connect the earth side of the fuel pump directly to the car body to earth it. My first suggestion is check the fuel pump has 12v, then connect it directly to a battery bypassing the ignition to see if it's working (take the fuel feed line off at the engine to see if it's pumping).