Lawsonmh15

Thanks for the reply, looks like I need to take it someplace that will do a flush since JE Subaru South will NOT. I'm always leary of having a "Grease monkey" type of Joint doing ANYTHING other than oil. Anyway, thanks for the info.

I forgot that you had back surgery dude. How are you doing??? Do you have to get out bed sorta like this??? LOL. JK.

BG 44K. Don't follow the directions. Use one can to a HALF tank of gas for best results.

Real important... Are you FLUSHING or are you DRAINING and refilling. I've only done the latter... Once; like a year ago. TIA. Also, how often do you need to add fluid typically? Not on cars in General (Sub. recommends 50-70K), but you in particular.

Damn nips, I know I've been away for a bit, but sh1t. I don't expect you to remember, but I thought I had that info in my sig.

99' SUS with 116K miles. Fluid changed, at good level, and I do not get the AT oil Temp light. Not sure about it blinking, but what would that mean? It doesn't stay on. Thanks for your help Gary:)

I know it sounds odd, but check your throttle cable. This sounds a bit reminiscent of the prob. I had when I first purchased my SUS. Super easy to adjust. Even easier with two people to make sure you're not over-stressing the cable, but getting full advance. GL.

I've been having this prob for awhile. Basically, for the first few downshifts it feels like there is a mismatch in the torque converter leading to one bad shift. This occurs when I punch to pass from 4 to 3. This is an AT. Was so bad on one occassion that I actually heard the tire chirp. Don't think it will get better on it's own. Have checked all elec connections and am now wondering if the Throttle position sensor could have anything to do with it. Also wondering if it could be IACV related. PLEASE HELP!!! Don't want to burn by tax refund on a new tranny. TIA. Oh, the weird thing is that it shifts smooth after 1-3 hard shifts, almost like the ECU finally figured it out. Let me know. Thanks again.

If the TPS is off, you will immediately know it. Both o2's are new.

Chassis ground STAYS.

Revival. This is STILL driving me nuts. SOMEONE HAS to have had this happen. I'm running out of ideas. I looked at the coil pack today and noticed that 1 and 3 have slight corrosion, but 2 and 4 are clean as can be. It just so happens that the IACV is above cylinders 1 and 3 and I am wondering if this could have anything to do with this. May be way off base, but considering there hasn't been a single person yet to hit the nail on the head, I'll reach for anything. I hate to say it, but I may have to pay a stealership to revoke my driving privileges for a day. I hate that idea since I'm sure that there is no guarantee that their diagnosis will be correct. At any rate. PLEASE HELP.

I honestly hadn't considered selling it in the past, but if you're serious about it, it is in great shape mechanically. The interior is about as good as one can expect from a 7 year old vehicle. Wear on the driver's side seat is the only prob I can think of. Even then, it's not that bad. Exterior has a few rock chips here and there from typical CO roads. The passengers' side has a scrape along the rear fender well (been there since I've owned it) and the grill is cracked. The only two issues with the mechanics of the vehicle are that in cold weather, you need to come to a complete stop for a few seconds in order for the Idle to drop to normal (which I HOPE I have solved tonight) and the other would be that there is a minute leak at the rear of the oil pan. I suppose I could get under there with a torque wrench and see if that's all it is, but worse case scenario, you would be looking at maybe $30 for a new gasket and a couple hours of labor, or maybe $180 in a shop. Either way, the latter is not a pressing issue. Rather, more of an annoyance. It doesn't leak enough to cause problems, or even leave a drop on the garage floor, it simply causes a minute smell of oil when stopped and running the heater without recirc. on. Bottom line... I love this car and I can't see parting with it for less than $9k. I've put too much $$$, time, and care into it to justify selling it for less. If this is too far out of your ballpark, I'm sorry, I don't wish to barter. But, if you are serious about it, I will take some more photos of interior, exterior, undercarriage, and engine comp. However, I don't want to eat up the USMB's space to talk to you about this. If you would like to further discuss it, please PM me, or send me an Email. OR if you prefer, you can call me. (303) 917-3587. My name is Matt.

I thought the technical name was a woodruff key.

Just a shot in the dark, but what plugs did you use? I had the Exact codes about 7k miles after installing some Bosch Plat + 4's. However, I think that one of the connectors inside of one of the crap Napa wires was disconnected. I replaced the plugs with NGK's and the wires with OEM and smooth sailing ever since.

Wow!!! Either you're getting 2 gallons per mile , or are driving an insane amount. With winter gas, I stick at 24MPG. Summer, Hwy, ~28mpg. I'd say you have problems. Just a shot in the dark, but you may want to take a look under your drivers' side dash and see if there is a green two-prong connector connected to it's mate. If there is... That's your problem. If not... I don't know. I know first hand how it runs when connected (HORRIBLE), then again, I shut it off as soon as I heard it run. If this is not the case, I would suggest you get ahold of a Subie Specialist with a used knock sensor. In Colorado, we have two such shops. Silverstar (303) 690-1225, and Super Rupair. I wouldn't expect to pay more than $70-$90. May not be what you wanted to hear, but if you continue driving with a bad knock sensor, you WILL (from what I've read) tear your engine apart. I'll bet $70; well at that point $300 doesn't seem bad after considering the pitfall. Good Luck. Re-Read orig post, Now I'm wondering if a connector to one of your injectors is disconnected or in VERY bad shape. Just a thought.

No doubt!!! I'm glad this was the first reply. Why RUIN that car?!!!

Pics In many threads, 114K Mi, Replaced Timing, Crankpulley, Hood, Alternator, Plugs, Plug Wires, Fuel Filter, Front and Rear Diff. Service, Tranny Filter and fluid, Coolant Flush + Subaru Conditioner, Brand new (less than 500 miles) KYB GR-2 Struts, New (>1000 Miles) Kumho 795 A/S Tires, Tinted, Limited package. ALL maintenance records since I've owned it (Thick Pile), All oil changes done with Mobil 1 Semi.

How much?

The SUS IS the legacy outback, prior to becoming the outback. I have a 99.

Glad to hear that you got it taken care of.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but if you had bad rings, wouldn't you be blowing a good amount of smoke? I still haven't seen anything about replacing the vehicle. I hate to say it, but I wouldn't want the vehicle back after the engine has been pulled and torn down by techs who have been given instructions of, "make it stop using so much oil". From personal experience, I HATE re-doing other peoples' work. Although I realize I'm being paid to do it; I don't have the same enthusiasm as I do when I'm doing it for the first time. Although these guys are certified techs, I wouldn't be surprised if SOMETHING, didn't make it back the way it was.

If you need the full set of elec. diagrams PM me.

Are you sure it wasn't a TT H6? If so, was this it?:

I have one on my 99. What year did they start using the external tranny filter??? If they didn't on the 97's I can see why they are so apt to bind. WAY TOO MUCH HEAT. I know the filter may seem like it would provide only nominal cooling, but you consider that in 4th gear doing 80MPH, with it's placement, it providing a good bit of cooling. Without a DOUBT... If I owned one without, I would drop the $35 on a tranny cooler.

DOH!!! Just realized that thread is over a month old. Forgive me. Home sick with Strep and just not paying close enough attention. Just tried to resuscitate the thread asking for charts and #'s.