Lawsonmh15

o2 sensors, and fuel filter.

Well, Mr. Custom electronics guy has had what has turned into a 10-month+ brain fart. I idiotically followed the advice of others on another board and in turn gave a HORRIBLE example on where to ground. As I'm sure most of you know, your battery is grounded to the bottom of your Engine/TC. I added two ground cables to each side of my manifold. Shortly thereafter, I began noticing Hard Shifting. Wasn't until I experienced Ground Loop Hum with my Sunfire Mark IV that I realized what I had done to my car... Created a ground loop. Now, feel free to add cables to your chassis, reinforce TCU ground, but NO MATTER WHAT ANYONE TELLS YOU, IT IS A HORRIBLE IDEA TO ADD GROUNDS TO YOUR ENGINE. I'm just glad I switched to the Royal Purple awhile ago and that I eventually realized my mistake. PLEASE TAKE NOTE as I DO NOT want to be the cause of someones' blown clutch packs. Sorry about that, please remove those grounds.:banghead:

DEAR GOD. DO NOT GROUND YOUR MANIFOLD, OR ANYWHERE ON YOUR ENGINE!!! I FEEL LIKE A MORON. YOU WILL CREATE A GROUND LOOP WHICH WILL CAUSE, AT THE VERY LEAST, ISSUES WITH YOUR TRANNY.

Thinking you would not be seeing any of your belts turning if it's shot. Sounds like either way at 207K with no maintenance history, it's about time for a new one. As far as cleaning out the IACV, here is the LINK. Could be wrong, but if the IACV was having issues, you'd have been experiencing Idle problems before now. I'd be sure to check your Air box. Like I said, remove the hose from the intake at the 2nd resonator air intake box and resecure it. Make sure you reconnect the hose to the PCV on the bottom of the 1st resonator intake. This sounds too much like a vacuum issue though.

Attached is a picture of the hose which TC is referring too. The hose in question is the one with the text on it. Also, make sure that the airbox is properly seated. 90% of the time I have to re-do it when someone else removes the top. The best way to do it is to loosen the clamp and remove the hose where it meets the airbox in line with the Intake. Then you have the freedom to seat it easily, without putting alot of stress on the attached components. BTW, this HAS to be a vacuum issue.

Well, since I changed my ATF with the Royal Purple, my hard down-shift (4-3rd or 4th-2nd not totally sure which) issue SEEMED to become a NON-issue. However, we've gotten some nice chilly weather here in Denver over the past couple days, and now it seems to have reered it's ugly-@ss head again. Wondering if there could be a prob with the tranny that I'm not seeing. The more threads I peruse, I see people stating that the AT's won't allow a shift into 4th until a certain temp is reached. I can say without a doubt, that mine shifts into 4th without any concern of temp. Last winter, -10 just started, if in D would go to 4th before the engine had even THOUGHT about warming up. Could it be the Tranny temp sensor? Could that be causing this issue, or would most likely be the coolant temp sensor below the manifold??? Thanks for any and all help. Hey nipper, long time no read.

What I've found to work to get your trims' blackness back, is to set it down and make it watch Shaft and Beat Street. 90% of the time, it works every time. Seriously though, I'd just look for a used trim piece, does both front and back doors. Found mine for $70.

F compromise. I still haven't gotten you my address.

That's weak. Makes sense though.

Try BG 44K on a half tank of gas just prior to an oil change. Also, if you want to pull and soak them, you could most likely do it yourself for the price of some new O-rings and a cost of maybe an hour. Here are the instructions.

Thinking you have that backwards. Spare on back, fuse in FWD override.

Dude, if you have too much money, I need some. $6K would help out. PM me for my address.:banana:

THIS IS ALL TOO COMMON. YOU NEED A NEW PULLEY AND WOODRUFF KEY. YOUR ENGINE IS NOT RUINED. SORRY FOR THE CAPS, BUT YOU ARE FINE, YOU'LL BE SHORT A FEW HUNDRED BUCKS, BUT YOUR ENGINE IS NOT RUINED. Not to sell the above "solution" short, but that sounds like quite a bandaid. Would worry about keeping timing in check. What's happened is that your woodruff key has sheared off. You, or a trusted mechanic, needs to remove the remains of the old woodruff key, and pound a new one in. The odds are that you need a new pulley too. If CCR's solution is close to the same price as what I had to do, I would MUCH rather return the parts to ORIGINAL working condition. My 2 cents.

What a pain in the rump roast, I'm re-thinking, and thinking you should find an autozone and get the code pulled.

Impreza outback sport (2.2 SOHC), Or Legacy Outback (2.5 DOHC)? If it is blinking at 1/8 second intervals, your battery is going. Perhaps just your grounds need cleaning up. AllData is making it a bit difficult to decipher what it is I'm looking for here. If it blinks at 1/4 second intervals it is fine. Tell me if it stays lit for 1.2 seconds and then count the number of blinks following and I will have a code for you. Here's a copy of the Diag. Procedure. Click HERE

Well, I guess we have a version too. I would rather get the B4 2.0GT Spec. B (Twin turbos, 6 speed MT, and a couple hundred pounds lighter).

Those are cute, but THIS is what I want to see available.

I second that. Here is a link to a PDF I uploaded that explains the procedure without having to disassemble much. http://home.comcast.net/%7Elawsonmh15/Idle_Air_Control_Solenoid_Valve_Service.pdf Should do the trick. Here is a link to my thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46484&highlight=IACV I'd also recommend you purchase a can of BG 44k and run that through on a HALF a tank. I know they say full, but better concentration = better results.

Yeah. The more I think about it, it seems as though you get both 301/303 302/304 if it's the Bosch issue. Do what Nipper says, I believe he has got the better idea.

What plugs? If other than NGK or Denso (i.e. Bosch) replace and your issue will disappear.

Is this with an Automatic? If it is, and is actually happening in the process of shifting, odd as it sounds, it may be the brake bands in the tranny. What I am referring to is a dip WHILE shifting. If so, do an ATF flush (I like the Royal Purple) and if it is still apparent and REALLY bothering you, adjust the brake bands.

Oddly enough, I've seen shops around here offering to fill tires with nitrogen. The benefits...

May be too soon to say, but Since I flushed with Royal Purple, My notorious hard shift has dissappeared and I gained 3.5 MPG.:banana: No leaks either. Also, for a $30 price difference, it was WELL worth it.

Any and ALL wiring diagrams out of Alldata. PM for a PDF.

Bosch = PO301/303, PO302/304:horse: