DerFahrer

Haha, you went for it Olnick, I've been trying to keep my mouth shut...

Do NOT clean off the goo around the throttle plate. That's there from factory, and it seals the throttle plate when it's closed so the ECU can properly regulate idle through the IAC valve. Cleaning that goo out has caused many problems for some.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-1600-1800-DL-GL-Loyale-XT-Drill-Slot-Rotors-disc_W0QQitemZ290001170889QQihZ019QQcategoryZ33564QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Can't vouch for their quality in any way of course , but there they are.

The only thing it could possibly be, going by his location, would be maybe a Cali-spec engine, but that's it. Even that I've never heard of, so I doubt that.

260k kms is a little over 160k miles, so yeah the engine is a tad old, but by no means done for. I too vote for a bad PCV valve. Be sure to use OEM to replace it, do NOT use aftermarket.

No line there, SVX is definitely new. EG33 is just an EJ22 with two extra cylinders. The Legacy came out in 1990, the SVX in 1992.

The early Legacies and Imprezas must be considered New-Gen, because every Subaru that has been made from that point on has been based off those two cars... well, if you want to get technical, EVERY new Subaru is somehow based off the 1st-gen Legacy. I'm going to try to keep an objective mood in this thread.

They didn't make Brats for 16 years . In fact, they didn't make Brats for 10 years...

Yeah, there is no EJxxS engine. You have an EJ18E in your 93 Impreza. The EJ18 blocks are very receptive to a turbo install, provided you don't go crazy with it. It's still a 9.5:1 compression engine, so you can't run 14-15lbs without some SERIOUS engine management. I'm starting an EJ18-T project myself (just picked up the longblock this past weekend), but I don't have time right now to go into detail about it.

Tough to say, could be a lot of things. Anything from a faulty brake switch (that disengages the cruise when you apply the brakes) to a vacuum problem or a snapped cruise cable...

Assuming your parking brake is okay, it will have nothing to do with just changing the pads and rotors. However, when you go to remove the rotors, don't forget to release the parking brake so you can get them off

This is for one of your 90 Legacies? Is it AT or MT?

I don't recommend drilled rotors. You'll warp them very quickly, especially if you drive hard.

No timing belt on Gen1's or Gen2's, so don't worry about that Any oil seals leaking? I'd replace those...

Good, I'm glad this thread came back up. I would really like for it to happen. The only USMB meet I've been to was here in Orlando, and it consisted of 3 people That's not a meet!

If you had a problem with your transmission, the POWER light should blink, not the AT TEMP light. I don't remember whether it's supposed to come on when you start the car or not. I'll have to double-check on my 93 wagon. When you're driving, the only time the AT TEMP light should come on would be if, well, the ATF gets too hot . In that case, you should just pull over and sit for a while to let it cool down.

I would also try to keep it going, but if something did happen internally, don't be disappointed. I'd say 90% of all cars on the road, in the whole world, will never see 300k. You must have the timing belt installed properly to do a compression test, otherwise the valves cannot close at TDC. It's possible your timing belt jumped enough where the engine won't run, without actually breaking. Did it have a CEL before? Maybe something electrical related?

Don't hold me to this, but I believe a ATF flushing machine just keeps running clean ATF into the system and pulling the old ATF out, and I believe the machine considers its job complete when it starts getting fresh ATF coming out of the system. By system, I mean the entire transmission assembly, the torque convertor, and the tranny cooler. Just a drain-and-fill won't change the ATF in the torque convertor and the tranny cooler. If someone that knows can correct me, please do so. But if I were a shop, that's how I would do it.

When you do a compression test, don't forget to disconnect the fuel pump too, not just the ignition coil. Overcompression is a possibility, excessive carbon buildup can cause that.

My family didn't understand my Soob addiction either, and then my uncle bought an EA82 sedan, and then my grandfather bought our 93 Legacy wagon

No ideas? A pic is worth a thousand words... I'm referring to the word that still appears to say Xivil in the upper right corner of this pic: Just curious, hungry for more useless Subaru trivia

What type of wagon is it? You need to look on eBay... like... now . Not 2 weeks after I bought my 79, I had already bought official 78 and 79 Subaru FSM's, and a 71-79 Subaru Haynes manual. Last time I checked, other auctions for the same manuals are up on eBay right now.

Time for a n00b question. Since my venture into the wonders of Gen1 ownership, I'm seeing a word that I believe to be spelled "Xivil" all over the place. It's on my starter on my 79, it's on some of the parts I've seen, I've even seen it in an FF1 ad. What is Xivil? Is that one of the Fuji companies? Or something else?

Well, first off, is your Legacy a 1993 or a 2003? Either way, a Legacy is a New-Gen car, so this belongs in the New-Gen forum. If it's a 2003 and your timing belt slipped, then you could very well have engine damage. If it's a 1993, it will not have engine damage, even if the timing belt broke completely.

Good thinking. I would demand to drive a turbo car in high elevations like that. Not only do NA cars run out of breath like that, but that's bad for the engine too.