DerFahrer

I haven't seen either of them post in a while, but PM subarubrat or Adam N.D.J. They've both shoehorned ER27's in their Brats, they could probably give you a few pointers.

I have a similar pocket in my Legacy which I keep my garage door opener in.

I understand the discussion here, if the passenger was 14 yrs or older, then he wouldn't have to be belted in and can legally ride in a "truck bed." But if he were belted into the jump seat, then he coulda been 5 years old and it would still be legal. Although, technically, if he weren't belted in, the ticket should be for nothing other than not wearing a seatbelt. But if he's 14, then Seahag is right, there are NO grounds whatsoever for him to get a ticket. Stick it to the man!

I think this is what's going to make or break this case. +1.

You couldn'ta sold it??? I bought my 79 for $300, but it needs work and doesn't run...

Also, what part number did you use? I just ordered all the mounts for my 79, and I got them all, and there are still a couple left.

The words 'Bosch', 'spark', 'plug', and 'Subaru' should never be used in the same sentence.

1. PHEW!! 2. Detail your own car from now on

It might be, it might not. I think some cars had them and some didn't. I know people with 1st-gen Legacies (nonturbo) who have topped out past 130mph, stock. I can't do much more than 110mph, not because I have a limiter, but because it doesn't have any more in it.

Actually, I know it's a 79, I know it's a 1600 engine, and I know it's a 49-states model, that's not high-altitude, so yeah, that should tell me enough to get the right carb kit. Duh. I'll pull the air cleaner off soon and take some pics of it.

Now they just need to get better at making them interesting...

The dismal response to this thread makes baby Jesus cry...

Toyotas do make silky-smooth engines, that not only run smoother, but quieter than Subaru engines. Don't forget, Subaru still has the same scrappy, rough-n-tough, bare-bones origins of the old Leone series. Durability, not refinement, is their #1 priority

Well, it seems to me like the float is stuck open. Played around with it some more yesterday, and I can get the engine to run for about 10 seconds if I keep the throttle wide open. Then it dies. I'm fairly sure it's flooding, because the exhaust is REALLY strong and smells a little of unburnt fuel. So I'm guessing (with my lack of carb experience) that the float is stuck open and letting the carb flood. Anyone have any more insight on that? All the aftermarket chains sell carb kits and say they have them readily available, and since I now know the VR/fuel pump relay is bad, I checked those aftermarket and they're available too. So once I pull the engine I'll probably get to rebuilding the carb. I just need to identify what type of carb it is.

Does the noise get faster as you rev the engine higher?

So I was playing around after work today (when I should have been doing homework )... I hooked my remote jump starter up, took a +12v line and popped the fuel pump with it a couple times, then left it hooked up to the fuel pump. I started the car, and after some reluctance, it fired up, and went to about 3k rpm! It sounded sweet! ... then it died about 5 seconds later . You all know better than I do, you say that leaving a direct +12v current on the fuel pump will allow it to run continuously. But it seems to me like it needs the relay to alternate current so it keeps cycling and thusly, continue pumping fuel. Now that I've gotten it to do this, do you guys still think it's a fuel pump relay, or could I potentially have a carb issue?

It's bad enough you're using Bosch Plats in a Subaru, but I hope you didn't just say you've been using the SAME Bosch Plats for 120k miles!! 02 Legacies take NGK Platinums factory. You need to use those plugs when you replace them. The ignition system is designed to use a platinum plug, and using a copper plug might affect performance.

Do it. It's a Gen 1 crying out for a resurrection. There should be no thought involved

Unpossible! It's a 22-year-old Subaru, it HAS to! Nice score!

Shucks. I should know this for sure, but I think the XT has a quicker rack than other EA82's, if that helps. I know you're talking about an EA81, but they should interchange right?

1st good idea: Take some pics

The old tensioner is a horizontal style, pushing out towards the left against the idler. The new tensioner (I believe it's on Phase II engines, 99-up) is vertical and pushes out toward the bottom against the idler. Yours is the old style.

You had to put that much work into it?? I knew the car needed new front calipers when it was at the lot, but I didn't know it needed all that. You put a new engine and transmission in it too?? To be honest, Lance struck me as a dirtbag, a typical used car salesman. I didn't trust him. It's no surprise that he's since sold that dealership. But I would have looked past all that for a 78 Brat!

1) I seriously doubt the oil pump needs REPLACING at 120k. A reseal would be a good idea, which would consist of nothing more than a front main seal, a small O-ring, and a small amount of RTV sealant. I know of 2.2's going 300k miles on their original oil pumps. 2) You SHOULD replace the tensioner, but I've seen cars go longer than that with their originals. I also am pretty sure the idler pulley is okay too. Likewise, I've seen 300k out of original idler pulleys too. 3) What is the 'separator plate' you speak of?