Midwst

Thanks for the info. Turned out to be no big deal.

Thanks for the info. Frag, my sensor looks just like yours. Was easy to remove. It did involve a 30 min drive to a near by town to get a used one. Hope it works!

I tried Josh. It locked up my computer! Will try again later. The aftermarket manuals truly suck.

I am wondering if the previous owner damaged the crankshaft pulley. It doesn't look quite right when its turning. Someone mentioned that it can be damaged by improper removal. How can I tell if it is messed up? Will have to get a replacement from the junk yard. Hope that one isn't messed up too. Someone mentioned using 2 bolts to wedge a prybar between to hold the pulley still while removing it. Will this damage the pulley? Thanks. Oh, also, if the previous owner did mess it up, will this harm the engine in any way? 91 Legacy 2.2 non turbo

Thanks. Actually, I guess it was the Chilton's manual that said remove timing belt. Glad to know its not that hard.

The Haynes manual says I have to pull the timing belt to change the crank sensor on my 1991 Legacy, non turbo. Other people say it is easy to change. does the timing belt need to be removed? Thanks.

It says in the Haynes manual that I have to remove the timing belt to get to the crank sensor on a 91. Is that true? Thanks. Also, I do not have a check engine light. I think the sensor is bad because it only tests at .02 alt volts. The Haynes manual says around .10 alt volts. I assume this means its bad, but hasn't failed enough to set a code.

I have a 1991 Legacy, non turbo, automatic. Could someone perhpas check for me to see if the part numbers for the cam and crank sensors are the same? someone said they were interchangable. If this is true, that would make my life much easier. Many thanks.

TOOLS NEEDED?? I'm on my way to the junk yard tomorrow. What tools do I need to get this thing out? I will bring my 3/8 ratchet, assorted extensions, 10mm socket, pocket screwdriver, prybar...plan to break timing cover... knife to cut belts. What else? Have never done this job before and don't want to be stuck out there without the right tools. Thanks.

I have some oil leaking onto my exhaust pipe. Has anyone ever heard of a car catching fire because of this? It does smell bad, but leak is not easy to fix. Thanks.

I am considering trying a 1/2" inpact gun on my crank shaft pulley...thats the way I usually get the bolts out on other kinds of cars. I hold the pulley still with a chain wrench. Question...on the Subaru, is there room for a 1/2" gun? Do I have to remove the radiator? If so, I may try a different method. Thanks.

Will look into Junk yard idea first, need it right away. Simbey...will let you know. So do the cam and crank sensors bolt up the same way, same mounting system? Paid only $25 for a Pontiac cam sensor yesterday. New. That's more my style.

Ran the test on the crank & cam sensors. Cam reads about 1.47 alternating volts at cranking. But Crank sensor reads only .02 alternating Volts at cranking. This is way below what the book specs are. Called the dealer and almost fell out of my chair. $350 for the crank sensor!!!! I could buy a whole engine for that price! May have to look for a junk yard crank sensor...but it is a part that takes a lot of labor to R & R so...what do you guys think? Thanks.

I know there are plenty of people here who have had transmissions replaced. Need to decide soon on a reman or junk yard tranny. Cost difference isn't that much. Found a used tranny with 47,000 miles. But with Legacies, that could be bad too. Don't think much of the subaru AWD transmissions.

Two obvious choices. Tires. Are they cupped?, edges feathered?It could be the tranny, but then you will hear it mostly on acceleration at any speed.

If you are going to go to all the trouble to pull the axle, its actually much faster and easier to replace the axle than replace the boot. The boots not free...and there is always the chance that the clips won't hold, or it will leak. If you are replacing the tranny, I assume you plan to keep the car for a long time. Most auto parts stores offer lifetime warranty on axles, so its not wasted money. It will need to be replaced more than once anyway. I have found that if the joint is dry...not slinging greese anymore, it is already getting damaged. My front differential got messed up, along with the wheel bearing when an axle broke. Personally, I would just put an different axle in. I have had really good luck with the "A-1" brand of axles. Out here O'reilleys sells them. I mention this because some reman axles are junk. There are some cheesy 2 piece boot kits that you can use so you don't have to pull the axle. I have found them to be nothing but trouble. Thats just my opinion. Some will differ with me...just my 2 cents.

Compression tested great. 180, 185,185,170. Can't complain about that. #4 was the 170. But it's still within the 20% variance...and within specs. No engine job here.

I ran away.

For those of you who have been following the drama, I did not get the Loyale. The dealer admitted that the car could not do 70mph. This, combined with the rust, weird engine noise, rough idle...all led me to the decision to walk away. I'd decided to put that money towards a Legacy. For anyone interested there is a 2WD gl wagon in town here for $500. Have no clue what's wrong with it except LR quarter is bashed in. Its in Iowa. If anyone is interested I can get the details, year, miles, etc. They'll probably take less than $500. Its been sitting for a while. Many thanks to everyone here for all of your help. I will miss the old generation gang.

Has anyone installed a reman transmission in their Legacy and been happy with its performance? I am looking for brands/reman companies that have trannies that can go the distance. If you had a reaman tranny put in your Legacy, automatic, please let me know how many miles you've put on the car since the reman was put in and if there have been any problems. Also, what company remanufactured the tranny.... ie: Certified, Jasper, etc. I have been in the car business long enough to know that brands matter and some reman companies suck. Thanks for the help. -Sarah

Thanks. I also think I read somewhere that someone had done measuring and found that if the tires...same brand, style, size...were within 10,000K of each other it was okay. I am hoping I remember that correctly. I think I can still buy the same style, since it wasn't very long ago.

My transmisison pump whines under acceleration. Has been doing this for 5 years. Hasn't tanked yet. Wondering if anyone else has had this problem. 91 Legacy, 189K, AWD auto

I put 2 new tires on the front of my Legacy, 9 mo ago. Rear tires are badly worn. Didn't know about the tire thing then. Tranny is tanking for other reasons, so not worried. Question, how many miles difference can one have on the tires? I've barely put any miles on the car at all since 9 mo ago....may be able to get away with adding 2 new tires to rear...plus new tranny. Hate to drop $300 for a matching set when the 2 front are so new. Second question: can mismatched tires cause a "bearing noise" in the tranny...from the differential? Thanks. -Sarah

1990 Legacy, 156,000miles. I am wondering if silver on the dipstick is a reliable sign of clutch wear in a tranny...combined with symptoms, of course!

Structurally speaking, what are the danger spots for rust on the older legacies? i am not concerned with door panels or quarter panels, but things like suspension mounting, etc. One guy told me that the rear wheel control arms mountings can rust out causing the rear wheels to spread apart! Is this true? What other things should I check for?