Midwst

I really doubt that this guy followed proper storage proceedures. He's kind of an idiot. Sitting for 3 years outside in upper midwest with a tarp over the top. I know gaskets and the water pump don't do well with extended sitting. Same with tires. Kind of makes me nervous.

Its neat to meet someone else from Iowa. Unfortunately, that yard does not have a pulley to fit my car. Will have to use A-1 Imports near Amana. Don't think they are very professional, but they are the only ones with a pulley. Please see my other post about low compression and bearing problems. The car they are pulling the parts from has low compression. I am concerned that the bearings might be bad...and have damaged the pulley. But they can only tell me that it has low compression. Pulley may be fine. Don't think the crank shaft has been hurt though. No noise which is good!!

I am going to look at a Subaru that has been in storage for 3 years. I am wondering...what problems might arise? What should I look for? I know sitting is hard on cars, on the other hand, it only has 114K miles...which in Subie land looks pretty good. Thanks.

Question, will bad crankshaft bearings show in a compression test? Thanks.

Also need to know, will a crankshaft pulley with a broken harmonic balancer (rubber part) cause the car to run rough? I would think so. Would affect the timing.

Crankshaft pulley is not good. Not turning right. No engine noise...thank goodness. Not real comfortable buying used one...how do I know if its okay? Was removed properly, etc? Where can I get an aftermarket one? No one here in town has a listing for it. Does anyone here have known good pulley I can buy? Need it yesterday!!! Thanks.

Check everything that is turned by your alternator belt. Sounds like one of your pulleys is bad or belt is super too tight. Any alternator that puts out more than 16 volts is BAD!!! 14.5 to 14.8 is pretty normal. Anything over 15....might make me nervous.

I am familiar with the normal clicking and knocking of FWD CV joints...but have noticed that these sounds are much harder to hear on a AWD system. Is there another way to check if the CV joints are bad, besides listening for noise? Thanks.

The next test to do is called a cylinder leak down test. It does require a special tool. This checks if it is indeed a head gasket, or maybe a mechanical problem, like rings, valves,etc. Might even be able to detect a cracked block. The fact that the insulation was broken on the spark plug causes me to think twice about the head gasket diagnosis. Head gaskets don't normally break spark plugs. I would have this test done first just to make sure, because otherwise you could do the whole head gasket job, put it back together and find...still not okay. Of course, chances of it being a mecahnical problem are pretty low...but personally I'd have that checked first. Its not a test you can easily do yourself, unless you are very mechanically inclined and experienced in what to look for. Best to take it to a shop that specializes in engine work. Cost is about $65-$75 i think. Also the fact that only one cylinder is bad and not 2...plus no coolant in oil or oil in coolant....plus ticking sound. It is possible you broke a piston ring.

I need to know if the IAC control valve from a 1989 Legacy will fit a 1991 2.2 Legacy. both non turbo. apparently my IAC is bad. Thanks!!

Spoke with my subaru parts dealer. They say they sell a lot of coolant temp sensors for idle problems. Thats next.

I talked with my subaru parts department. They said they would be wiling to offer USMB members a 10% discount on parts. On many things their prices are better than the 1stsubaruparts web site. On some things, like timing belts, they are more expensive. Just depends what your looking for. My dealer does not have a web site, but you can email them at mjninc1@qwest.net or call at 1-800-332-0290. Ask for Bart or Doug and tell them you are a USMB member. (this means I get a discount too!!)

This is for a 95 Legacy, 2.2L. I have a friend who has had this problem on several american cars. He always replaces the thermostat. I found that strange since the CTS and computer turn on the fan...but it seemed to work for him.

Mine has 4 bolts. I didn't see any small parts at all on the throttle body where it bolts up. Will look again. I hate this car! Desperately want a different subaru but can't find any with good transmissions in my price range near my home. Words cannot describe how sick I am of trying to fix this stupid thing! Thanks for all the tips though.

If the coolant fan kicks in at too high a temp...would changing the thermostat ever make a difference? I think the coolant temp sensor controls fan turn on/off.

It is definately a bearing noise. Sounds just like a wheel bearing going out, but not the right symptoms to be in the wheels. Will test drive again, I think I am beginning to hear some chattering, but not sure. need to recheck. Would not exactly call it a whine. I'm not sure what the difference is between a bearing noise and a whine...but not quite the same.

I removed the IAC with the engine cold. Too late...read the directions later. The shutter is right about half way open. Does anyone know if this is right amount? The book says to take it off with the engine warmed up...but then its too hot to get in there comfortably. Wish I had read the directions first. Removed IAC. Looks great. Very little sludge/oil or build up. Doubt its a problem. Do I clean it with carb clean?

The coolant temp sensor near the IAC, is that the CTS for the guage or the CTS for the coolant fan? I think the accelerator cable is okay. Problem occurs at idle anyway, not when moving. But will check just in case. Will need to get an o ring for the oil pressure switch since it is clearly leaking.

Did a search on the IAC. Found lots of info. Will try cleaning it to see if that helps. Someone mentioned adjusting the IAC upon reinstall. Is there a way that I can mark it so that I don't have to do the adjustment? Tried to find info on adjusting...so far haven't found enough info on this topic...just that it needed adjusting.... Update: oaky went and looked at the car. On the passenger side, there is a cylinder shaped thing with a grey plastic cap and an electical connector. Below it is a 1" rubber hose. It bolts directly onto the throttle body. I am assuming that is the IAC?

My car has a ticking noise from the converter...just an idea.

Fuel filter is new. Good brand. Cam and crank position sensors both read .122 to .141 alt volts. Close enough to specs that I doubt thats the problem. Could be attributed to differences in volt meters. Where is the idle air control valve on these cars? Or is it just called an air control valve? No check engine light. No codes as far as I can check in my driveway. PCV valve is new too. There is a sensor of some sort just next to the crankshaft position sensor. It has only one wire going to it and is soaked in oil. Its right next to the EJ22 stamp on the block. What is it? Could be fuel...but don't have a fuel pressure tester. May have to buy one. Idle does not surge. Rough idle problem is intermitant. Need to fix this problem first before dumping any more money into this tank. Checked the throttle body. Looks okay. No heavy carbon. Throttle cables not sticking. Plugs looked pretty normal.

I am very familiar with wheel bearing noise. Turn the wheel right and if the left wheel bearing is bad, it will make noise. Well, this car makes noise turning right or left...and starting to make bearing noise going straight ahead. Tires new. Left front wheel bearing new. I am pretty certain it is the front differential, but would really like some ideas on how to double check my theory. Thanks.

AURGHH!!! I thought I fixed my stupid Legacy. 1991 2.2L. 189K miles. Starts great. Sounds great cold. Once really warmed up, starts running rough/uneven. New crank position sensor, plugs, wires. Coil specs out okay. Where is the knock sensor? Need to check that. Will recheck cam shaft position sensor next. Am at my wits end with this da-- car! Have already purchased all the parts to do the timing belt job...and lined up a new tranny for the piece of junk, but hate to put any more time, money into the thing if it won't run right. Cant afford to take it to the shop...they'd probably just guess and throw parts at it anyway. Need help!! No pinging. Car has plenty of power. Compression quite good.

If you set a price and place the car on the USMB marketplace...yes, there are a lot of mechanically inclined people on this board. Give some more details about body/rust/interior and engine condition...suspect someone will bite.

Hard to translate from US to Canada $$, maybe you're better at it than me. Anyway, I don't usually go by the blue book, I check for listings in Autotrader.com or cars.com and see what other people are asking for similar vehilces. Knock off $500 usd for the tranny if its bad. Thats how much a junk yard tranny costs...if you can find one. Just a thought.