EOppegaard

ohh boy...lovely design genius there When you refer to the housing assembly, do you mena the lower portion of the button itself? Or do you mean the plastic that surrounds the button...hopefully that makes sense!

Thanks for the pics...however I am looking for help for a 93 Legacy...and not the HVAC controls :-) Currently my Rear Defrost button is out, as well as the hazard light switch...well...I think it's out...it's always been out however I think it is suppossed to light up! Let me know if someone can help me through this process!

Hey guys, I haven't been on the board in a while so I will giv eyou a bit of an update. I am now living in Florida working for Walt Disney Imagineering doing all sorts of magical stuff :-) Will be back in CT in January as I am taking this semester off from my studies. Anyways, I couldn't find anything about htis in the forums, however i am sure I am just not looking hard enough. I left my Chilton Manual at home...like an idiot...and now I am looking to replace the backlight bulbs for the rear defroster button, as well as the hazard light button both on the dash of my 1993 Legacy Wagon. Any idea on how to do this?

Anyone know what a stock 93 legacy wagon came charged with as far as refigerant (sp)? I am looking to do a re-charge and don't know if I can even do it!

OEM Connectors? HA Now that's funny! It depends on the wattage/amperage of the items you are running... OEM connectors don't exist, all of the wiring in the car is done by OEM connectors such as plugs and whatnot that the car was designed with. Run down to your local auto parts store and take a walk down the electrical aisle. You will see all sorts of ways of connecting things. If you are planning on adding a lot of extra items...considering wiring in an extra fuse block. and remember...if you don't feel comfortable with electrical work...ASK SOMEONE WHO DOES...we don't want any crispy subies.

I Just bought a roll of the grippy matt stuff that you use to line cabnets and drawers with. It's also used to hold rugs down on hard surfaced floors. Cut it, and voila, custom grippyness

http://www.moldinspector.com/car_and_van_mold.htm Check out that link for some mold removal tips

Connecting ground directly to the battery is a bad thing...sheet metal is fine to use, or try the frame...or most any metal on the car. Why not...it's what everything else on the car uses for ground

Once again, you need to make sure this is not going to melt the current light housing, since the brighter bulb, will also be drawing more current, as well as be generating more heat. I mounted a pair of Hella 500's on my front bumper, however I am sure you could retrofit them to fit in the current space. What are you looking for as in wattage?

You can upgrade, and I am sure you have found that many different lights can be mounted in that position. One thing to remember is the amount of electrical current being drawn by your new lights. You most likely will not be able to "plug and play" as far as the electrical wiring goes...at least safely. I would reccomend setting up a type of relay system, and a pulling a new positive power lead to give juice to your new beams.

Find a thumbtack, shove it in the hole where the fluid comes out on the nozzle, re-aim, test, re-aim again, and enjoy

Good good point... I guess I will try to stay out of the woods considering the car is not 4WD, not lifted, and not planning on doing any intense off roading. I guess I will find out if there is any wiring in there I should worry about!

I know I am crazy, that has been established a long time ago. And why buy a cop car when I have a subie wagon? Hehe, I like turning heads. Anyways, does anyone know of any wiring in the A-Post on the drivers side that I should be worried about? I know I need to mount it below the actuall track for the auto seatbelt, however anything else other than that?

Alright, I know this may sound crazy, however I would like to install a Unity Spotlight on my A-Post. These are those teardrop spotlights you normally see on police cars on the drivers side. I want to Install one on my 93 Legacy Wagon I have the automatic shoulder belts, however I think if I mount it low enough on the A-Post, it should clear them. Anyone else forsee anything I should look out for? Has anyone ever attempted something like this?

I have a cupholder mounted on the hump in the back seat behind the center console. I picked it up from Wal-Mart for about $3, and it is one of the best investments I have ever made.

What do people reccomended for the rubberizing texture?

Not if you do it correctly, if you just paint over it yes, however there is a correct way to re-paint.

I tried the whole Autozone route for matching the paint code...it is different...a bit lighter than the original. I like the idea of using texturized rubber paint, however who knows if it would come out correctly. I also will be taking a picture of the car tomorrow and play around with it in photoshop.

I would be repainting this myself...however what do you mean by texture paint?

What about turning? That could be a loose gasket on the axel...forget the exact name of it. However I agree that it is probably a brake pad. If you end up changing it yourself, let me know, I am interested in attempting a brake job on my 1993 legacy just to replace the pads.

I have a 1993 Legacy Wagon, color blue. I found the touch up paint at a subaru place to do some of the paint work I had when my lower quarter panel encountered a rock on the roadway. Nevertheless, it took a good hunk of paint out of the lower door panel. I attempted to touch this up with the paint, however it didn't look good at all, and I ended up painting over it with another color blue just to make the door area smooth and prevent it from rusting. I am tempted now with the idea of making the car two tone. A lot of people have reccomended it to me since all of the damage is below the rubber stripping on the side of the car. I was thinking that black would be the easiest, however no idea how it would look on my car, especially with the color already being blue above it. Anyone ever attempted something like this? Have pictures?

hmm, this brings up a good point....frameless eh.....well then, guess I will have to figure out some other way to keep air circulating and rain out!

Anyone use these on their cars? What sizes fit?!?

You have something shorting to ground somewhere, who replaced the panel? They should have made sure that all of the wiring is up to par at the same time. Does the problem only occur now when you turn on the headlights? These are the kind of things you need to trace in order to isolate the electrical problem.

Grounding can usually be a problem with el chepo amps. Another thing to remember is that your power source itself needs to be clean. If you are drawing power off of a lead somewhere that has a bad ground, or an "unclean" one, you will most always have alternator whine. You can also buy noise filters to put inline on your power leads which most always eliminate the problem. I can also not stress enough...FUSE EVERYTHING! Your "100 Watt Amp" will turn into 100watts of molten firey plastic, along with the arching along the line, one day if something shorts to ground. Fuse close to the battery, as well as near the item itself in order to be safe on all ends. IF you are only going to fuse one, fuse close to the battery or other powersource.