EOppegaard

I don't know about anyone else...however I have been able to drive my friends outback wagon through some pretty deep snow...and up some steep slopes. My advice...go slow. As someone else reminded us..."Subarus are driven from what's inside" I would also check out cartalk.com's website for some tips. Cartalk.com

What? Solder is not good for high temp? Are you kidding me? If the wire is getting hot enough to melt the solder...you have a larger problem than finding a better connector! You will most likely need to install heavier gauge wire...no connection should get hot enough to melt solder

I cannot stress enough the importance of using the correct size bulb for the correct size wiring harness. I have been to countless car fires just for the simple fact of people running the incorrect wattage bulbs in their cars, and that melts the housing of the lamp, including the wiring harness. The bulbs specified for your car are just that...specified for you car. The car is designed to run those bulbs, no others. If you start messing with higher wattage bulbs, they will be pulling more amperage through the line, thus causing a potential electrical hazard in the vehicle. If you want to run higher wattage bulbs in your car, you must upgrade the wiring, AND the housing. The heat generated by some of these bulbs is insane and can melt right through your plastic headlamp housing. You can do it...just do it right!

Josh, here is what you are running...at least according to an older post Battery Model: D34/78-950 Part Number: 8014-021 Nominal Voltage: 12 volts NSN:6140-01-441-4272 Description: High power, sealed, lead acid deep cycle battery. Physical Characteristics: Plate Design: High purity lead-tin alloy. Wound cell configuration using utilizing proprietary SPIRALCELL technology. Electrolyte: Sulfuric acid, H2SO4. Specific gravity: 1.342 Case: Polypropylene Color: Case: Light Gray Cover: "Optima" Yellow Group Size: BCI: 34 Standard Metric Length: 10" 254 mm Width: 6.8" 172.2 mm Height: 7.8" 198.1 mm(height at the top of the terminals) Minimum Weight: 43.8lb. 19.89kg Terminal Configuration: SAE / BCI automotive and GM style side terminal (3/8" - 16 UNC - 2B, threaded nut). Performance Data: Open Circuit Voltage (full charged): 13.2 volts Internal resistance (fully charged): .0028 ohms Capacity: 65 Ah (C/20)52 Ah (C/2) Reserve Capacity: BCI: 124 minutes (25 amp discharge, 80o F (26.7o C), to 10.5 volts cut-off) Power: CCA (BCI 0o F): 750 amps MCA (BCI 32 o F): 950 amps Battery Power (C/2) 8.4 kW 412 W/Kg 955 W/L Battery Energy (C/2) 624 Wh 30.6 Wh/Kg 70.9 Wh/L Cycle life: Cycle Life - deep cycle (BCI): ~ 350 cycles J240 Life Cycle (BCI): 10,000 - 12,000 cycles EV, C/2 discharge to 10.5 volts, cycle to 80% retained capacity: > 220 cycles Recommended Charging: The following charging methods are recommended to ensure a long battery life: (Always use a voltage regulated charger, with voltage limits set as described below.) Model: D34/78-950 These batteries are designed for cyclic applications and for use in vehicles with large accessory loads. Recommended charging information: Alternator 13.8 to 15.0 volts Battery charger 13.8 to 15.0 volts, 20 amps maximum Float charge 13.2 to 13.8 volts, 1 amp maximum Rapid Recharge (Constant voltage charger) Maimum voltage 15.6 volts. No current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125F. Charge until current drops below 1 amp. Cyclic or series string applications 14.7 volts, temperature <125F, no current limits. When current falls below 1 amp, finish with 2 amp constant current for 1 hour.

Well, alternator type is cool too, I meant what Optima you are using Also, is it hard to replace an alternator myself? Is it a bolt on bolt off job? Or should I see if I can get a mechanic install one I buy for me.

Well Josh, I'll Bite, what are you using :wave:

150amp alt bit the can about a year ago now, need to update that part of the site, I have the stock one back in there now, think it's suppossed to put out 60amps, however I am not sure, nor have I measured how much it's really putting out. As far as how I measured the amount of amperage, I used an ammeter, (measures the amount of electrical current flowing through a given circut, given in amps). I am running 4ga marine cable from the battery to a MAXI fuse block (30amp fast blow fuse) and then it goes from that block to two (2) 10ga wires feeding a fuse panel which powers the accessories.

Just hit 121000 the other day, I will look into that Optima Yellow top, is there one that fits in the same space as the stock? I notice that there technically is no "reccommended" battery from the optima site, nor anyone else. I will buy the battery from a store anyway. Reccomendations? Thanks guys you are really a wealth of info, just wish I was more useful once in a while!

The Battery is Just a plain old battery, considering replacing it with a yellow top, however still concerned about using a deep cycle for cold weather cranking. Would that do the trick? Should I think about getting the alternator replaced? The draw for the system when it is on draws 26.8amps, give or take a few. That is with all the lights running, the siren on, radios transmitting, and flashers flashing.

Anyone know where, or how, I can hook up a system to keep the vehicle at high idle when sitting parked? I find that with my high current draw, the car being parked, and it getting colder out, the lights dim, and my strobe packs mis-fire due to low voltage after about 15 minutes of sitting on the side of the road. Reccomendations? and no, removing crap not an option :moon:

9 years? It's still young, don't start thinking things are suppossed to fail!

Sorry, I should have clairfied, yes, Valvoline makes the line of MaxLife oils.

I have been reading a bunch about using this "Maxlife" oil in cars over 100,000 miles. It does not seem that much more expensive than regular oil, anyone have an opnion on this?

I notice that sometimes after "sprinted' driving I can smell an odor which I attribute to my brake pads, it may be something else, however I am not really worrying, nor does anything appear wrong with the vehicle.

The only thing that would be worth it for me is actually being able to clear more bumps and dips when I am driving through fields, or other off paved road activities. I am actually quite impressed with the capability of the FWD of Flash. I have been in a few situations that I have been able to truck on through on different dirt trails, or on dirt roads that seems to throw other SUV type, or 4wd trucks all around. What do people think of putting a lift on a FWD car? Is it that hard or $$$?

What kind of info do I need to attempt something like this? Is it in the Chilton Manual? Are there any special tools I will need?

Flash would look good with a lift, however flash is FWD, so I don't know if it is worth it...nor do I have much knowledge on the subject of lifting...however i am always open to ideas

I am intimidated by this whole brake pad thing as well, still think I am working on something important. I also don't think I have the tools/know how for such a job.

When I bounce the car by pushing on it, nothing happens, it only seems to do it when I go over a bump.

Are these those little "Spring Helper" things I see at Advanced Auto Parts?

Whenever I go over a speed bump at low speed, it seems the front end of my car likes to squeek, as it bounds over it. I have noticed that it increases in intensity when the weather outside is cold. Is this a lubrication issue that I could fix easily myself? Or is this a whole shock/spring/something I don't know about job?

My 93 Legacy is going in for a brake job soon, and I was looking around on the internet and was seeing that a lot of people are using these ceramic brake pads instead of the regular old ones. Is there anything I should ask them do to that would be out of the ordinary, as in different brake pads or whatnot? I drive my car pretty hard when I am on my way to emergency calls, and braking definitely is important (yeah, I need to stop), anything people reccommend?

Can this be done? Is it just heating elements like on the defroster for the back glass? I have a 93 Legacy wagon...no snow-readiness here...figured this would be a fun add on.

Anyone know a source for the Hakki's? (is that their real name?) I can't seem to find them anywhere online. Right now I am leaning towards the Blizzaks. If anything, they will be better than the Yokohama Avid's I am running right now!

Do people reccommend getting a new set of steel rims? Or just have the tires mounted on the current set of rims. I know that the Town Fair Tire Store around here offers free snow tire changeover, however I figure there is some sort of catch.