brat1709

Nice write up NVBlue. Will continue following your article. I've not had time to finish my project , but will be following your closely. I'm interested in the wiring and the fuel tubing set up. I'll be working on a 1984 brat which already has a E82T, (I picked it up this way)but now I have to finish the project. Please add lots of pics. Again, good luck on you project.

Hi Board. I agree with some of you. Give the new guy a chance.Why, because he deserves it. There is always the chance that a design can be altered. -For instance, as someone on the board said, I was a bit leary about sending money to BYB, such a long distance, but after waiting a long time, the kit came in. -Second, after installing the kit, the kit was not completely bolt on.Why, it was never discussed, but I had a brat with the power steering conversion. The adapter for the steering linkage was for manual. I had to adapt, and create one, since I particularly didn't want to wait with my brat parked for over another month, just to receive the correct part. I sure PK is doing a better job of this now. -Third, even after installing the kit, I wasn't happy with the strain that was put on the front wheels with the front crossmember adapters being 4" and the rear tranny support crossmember adapters being 3". I don't know if this is how the kit usually comes, but I went out and bought some tubing and washers and had to fabricate my own 4" adapters, thus the cv axles where returned to there normal angle and engine was no longer tilted. I belive if someone is offering a new kit, by all means, let him. Especially if someone is new to working on there own cars, and does not need the extra headaches. Luck for me I am knowledgeable with some fabrication, but not everyone is on the board. This was my experiance, and hopefully it had been smoother for others. Again, I expect the same mutual repect from all the fabricators and manufactures alike, but bottom line, it a benefit to have parts available for our vehicle, versus a few years ago, where no aftermarket parts where available. Just my opion, but I rather have the parts availability, versus no parts available at all. Hugo/So.CA

Hi All. Just found this out myself. My aunt husband just replace some shock with airshock and those came from a buick skylark. He told me most of the rear GM vehicles had theses. That would mean, we now have the correct part number to use on lifted subaru's, when airshocks are needed. Hugo/ So. CA

Ok guys. Problem found. It appears it was a ground problem. My friend detached the fuse box, and did not see a ground wire that attached at the rear. He assembled all, great sound, but failed to reattache the ground. It must me a pretty big ground, since it did affect the gauges. Thanks to all that helped in this matter. So make sure you attach all grounds.

Thanks ausubaru92 & Northguy for your replys. Radio was disconnected at the loom and amp at the battery. New radio has set up for floating ground, but was not utilized. New speaker wires were run to each speaker in the dash.Rear are run directly to amp. I'm wondering if a wire was pinched during the replacement of the dash speakers. I keep trying, but if not, it going to an electrician. I'm concerned about having my friend touch it again. Maybe nexttime it won't start.

Many thanks Chef Tim. I'll start with this and info I have. I will get this right...... Hugo/ So. CA

Well, my brat was just find, till my friend hooked up a radio and speakers. Problem: Gauges register normal when idleing, except for voltage gauge reading lower than normal. Turn head lights on, voltage gauge droped to 7 volts, gas gauge starts climbing a bit higher, temperture gauge goes to red, and oil gauge measuing a little bit higher. I've disconnected radio & amp at battery. ALternator charging at 14.5 volts. I'm wondering if the voltage regulator at the instrumental cluster is damaged? I don't know what he did? He did replace the dash speakers. Maybe a wire is shorting out? Need boards help. Never let friend touch my brat again

Thanks DaveAP,Qman,Rallywagon, and chef_timfor the response. I know I a bit crazy. I've been running Subaru's since 1976. It is a mild engine, with some torque, which is excited by the 4 speed Hi/Lo tranny. I like testing my vehicle to the max. If it breaks, I'll fix it. I like to know what these subarus can do. I've run other engines, but by far, I've had the greatest success with the brat. It is a very hard to die vehicle. I've only been able to blow 2 head gaskets, but more than likely the gaskets themselvel were old. The radiator where always replaced or had the rodded out. I've gone as far as modifying the E-81 w/ reground/ higher lift and duration cam, out of both the stock e-E-81 and the Turbo e-81. I think I liked the Turbo cam better. Raised the compression to 10:1, and still had a dependible mtr. The last thing that happend to me, twice, was I'd bent a push rod twice, secondary to me utilizing the stock pushrods and adjusting screw set to near max(Leaving me near the end of the threads). And still the brat has bean able to make it home, limping. I just did some concrete work, and went as hight as 1200 lb of concrete mix. Also did a shovel of sand and Home Depot, in the center of the bed. I wouldn't recommed traveling far with this kind of load, since the front wheels have a tendency to wander, and speed is increased.I know some of you guys might think this is cruel to the brat, but I like testing the limits. I know I've reached them, but them again, I know what I can expect of this loyal brat. I have to say its one of the most cost effective, dependible drivers, and its 4 wheel drive system is very dependible. Anyways, thanks a bunch for all your imput in this matter, and if other have other tires that they have tried, let me know. I read the recent tire thread, but just doesn't center on my particular application. Its the full travel of the wheel, with a load, I'm worried about. Hi Qman. I think you may be correct. It was hitting the head of the bolt, of the rear mudflap. I remember seeing a thread, that lead to a thread, regarding tire formulas, giving the total tire circumfrance, etc. Does anyone have that link. Thanks again..............................................Hugo/ So. CA

Need the boards help with tires on my application. I have a 1984 subaru brat w/ a 4" lift and running Peugeot 14" alloys and BFG All terrain tires 27-8.5-14.I cut the fenders and still they rub in the rear. I should emphasize, that they rub in the rear, only when carring a load. I usually pull a trailer with two quads, and have gone as far as placing a smaller 3rd quad in the bed. Now for the rubbing problem. It only occurs when the suspension bottoms out. I am currenly building another brat. I would like to utilize the lift kit, minus the cutting of fenders. While taking into consideration, the bottoming out of the suspension. What tires would work best? I'm hoping to get all of the board members opinions, w/ hopefully liftkits, but also those who have tried tires with the Peugeot tires, and have had success with the wheels. Again, I say, without cutting the fenders. I have a set of Peugeot 14" & 15" . Leaning toward utilizing the 15", secondary to more choice of tires.I've read many suggestions on the board on what will clear, but no one has ever addressed the issue of tires clearing, with a load in the back. You'll soon learn if you utilize the brat to carry heavy loads. Attatched is a pic of the brat with the weight I carry, just to give you an idea. http://www.sell4cash1709.com/Subaru/San%20Felipe%20brat%20Trailer.jpg Thanks for all your help in advance................................Hugo/ So. CA

As promised, Here are some of the pics............... http://sell4cash1709.com/Subaru/84almostready.JPG http://sell4cash1709.com/Subaru/84almostready2.JPG http://sell4cash1709.com/Subaru/ready2roll.JPG

Thanks guys for your input. Does anyone have pictures of the wireharness out of the vehicle. After seperation, how many pieces will the harness become? I'm hoping to see one out of the vehicle, before I get started. I'll send pics in the next post. Now I just need the harness. Anyone, please send pics.......Hugo/ So. CA

Need boards help, again. I was very fortunate two weeks ago and was able to pick up two brats for $1.00. Previous owner gave up, and I'm planning to resurrect these brats. Problem is the 84 brat is missing the wiring harness and the computor. This is what is on the Underhood sticker: Engine Famil-EFJ1.8T2Afd3 (109 cid) EGR/AIV/OC Evaporative Emmisions Family It is a 1984 brat w/ vin # JF2 AT53B1 EE504798 I'd like to get a hold of all emmisions diagram, and wire harness, so I can put this back together. It came with an older motor in it, and I believe its the origingal motor sitting in the bed. Just have to figure out how it goes. I own another 84 brat, and it looks identical, but last time a looked for a box, ran into problem finding one. If you have one, let me know. Also, since I've never removed a wire harness from inside, what does it look like? Is it easy to remove? When compared to my running 84 brat, there seems to be a harness missing on the Rt , just below the rt hood hinge. It has a large rubber boot, where it appears the harness went thru, but the dead brat is missing the harness. Last, how do you tell which emmisions where installed on a vehicle, and where was the vehicle first sold? Just wondering, since CA has stricked smog rules.I will post pics, as soon as I get more info. Thanks to all for your help in advance............................................Hugo/ CA

Nice Front bumper Mcbrat. Did you have it custom built? All it need is axillary holes for the off-road lights, and you got yourself a very nice setup. Let me know where you got it. I'd like to get one......Hugo/ So. CA

Anyone have any good ideas on how to safly split a subaru crankcase. I've heard of tools for this. I usually use a short 2x4 and a good big hammer. Would like boards suggestions. I'd hate to break something, knowing there was a safer way to do it or a factory subaru tool. I've seen the VW case splitters and the motorcycle case splitters, but never heard of one for Subaru's. Any advise or suggestions. Thanks in advance.....Hugo/ So.CA attached are pics of crankcase spitters I've seen....

Found this seller. Sells on Ebay. Reasonable price for gaskets... http://www.gasketpro.com/

First of all, I'd have to agree with one of the questions. Was the replacement turbo ne or rebuilt. I had a 1985 Volve 740 and was cheap about it. I bought the cheapest turbo I could find, and it leaked. I basicall burned the oil thru the exhaust side and it smoked like a Banchee. Send , make sure the valve seals intaked. With time(age), the rubber hardens and no longer seal. Lot of oil will be burned via the valve guides or seal. Third, I hate to say it but I get lazy and I never check the truness of the cylinders. I usually just throw in a new set of rings and have way better compression, but reality is, that the new rings will never mold into the cylinder walls well, if the cylinder is out of round. This will in effect cause you to burn oil, but in so small amount, that you won't notice it at the plug inspection, but you will notice it at the pipe. Last but not least, oil can accumilate in the exhaust ( if this is an automatic transmission/ thus tranny fluid) via a bad vacuum modual. This is what usually control the shift pattern on some automatic trannies, with the aid of vacuum. Since full time vacuum is at the tip of the vacuum modulater, if it gets a ripped diaphram, the engine will in turn start sucking up the tranny fluid vapor into the intake, and burn oil. Just my 2 cent. Good luck Hugo/So. CA

Good video clips. Was that done with a camcorder or digital camera. They look pretty good..... Hugo/ So. CA

Atten electryc_ monk- Any wireing color diagram would be greatly appreciated. Atten Mcbrat: Still working on the Turbo Brat. Its going to be a project. Very rusty. I'm currently dissassembling the Turbo brat, very slowly, so I won't miss any detailes. I purchased a black 1984 Subaru, and have spoken with the state smog referee. I've been told its OK to ulilize all the turbo parts onto the CA brat, and all modifications will be excepted, as long as it was a dealer option for the year. Both are 84's so I shouldn't have a problem. Will probably need the boards assistace in the near future for turbo connection. I've also just located a Japanese E-81T, and there going to let me have it for $550. Its going to be a difficult task, but I'm willing to do the trasplant , for the joy of driving a very neat toy. Will keep you informed as to the status. Just started tearing into the rusty brat 2 wks ago, so I'm kind of behind schedual. Did have a question for you tho' Mcbrat. I noticed the graphics on the side of the regular brats for sale, but no one has said anything about the Turbo Graphics. The Graphics appear to be intact on this model. How does one go about reproducing the graphics? Or is anyone out there offering them. Attached is a picture of the intact graphics on side, for turbo. Hugo/ So. CA

Thanks Mcbrat, and all you have contributed to this problem.Its all pointing to the Neutral safty swich, or better said, is it what Subaru call the inhibitor switch. I believe this problem plegues all the automatics, never figured it could be this switch. Where does this swich live? Below the shifter lever. Or, like other automatic trannys, at or near the shifter lever , on the side of the tranny. Hugo/So. CA

Fuel sending unit was tested with an VOM meter. Resistance is intact. The only think I've not checked is the actual wiring to the gauge. What should I be looking for in the wiring. I'm assuming there there could be a break in the wiring going from the tank to the dash. Is there any checks I can do to the wiring at the gas tank, to check for voltage or continuity to ground? Maybe its the grounding at the fuel sending unit. I'm assuming grounding must be internal, explaining the reason for the two wires. What can I do to test wiring. Anyone have the wiring schematic for the wires on the subaru or know the correct colors I should be checking for continuity, in case there's a break? Hugo/So. CA

Thanks guys for all good responses. I agree, it must be an automatic tranny problem, and also the fact that all checks out, then I must conclude the culpret must me the neutral switch. Thanks again. Will try all suggestions and see what the problem is. Many thanks to all. Hugo/So. CA

Hi Adam. Thanks for your interesting insight. Automatic it is. Whats odd is, it happens to the same one all the time. I've used the others ignition switch, and still have the same problem.I don't have any problems with the stick. I have to agree with you . It must be an Automatic problem. Anyone has any other suggestions. Hugo/So. Ca

Here are the copies out of the FSM regarging the sending units. The resistance operates in reverse, for the Digital Gauge -vs-the Mechanical Gauge. I did attemp to add ground, but no go.

Hi Calebz. I did check the Fuel sendin Unit with a vom meter. Resistance noted throughout. I even tried a Mechanical gauge fuel sending unit, and noticed that resistance is backwards. I was even afraid that I ruined the the gauge, since prior to me someone grounded the fuel sending unit to ground, utilizing a non subaru sending unit. Its not easy finding these instrumental clusters, and the other two I tried , the speedos did not work well.... Any suggestions will help, since I'm at the confusion stage:( Hugo/So. CA

1984 Subaru S/W with digital instumental cluster. I've tried replacing the whole cluster 3 times , and still no go.(3 diffrent clusters. I'm done fixing and now want a remedy. Which univesal fuel Level Gauge or modification , would work with a subaru OEM sending unit?