UMT

I hear you about the drive gear because that was my first thought, but I thought I would ask the question. Honda? Been there, done that. I'm on my 2nd Subby and won't drive anything else. Hope I didn't irritate everyone by not phrasing the original question better. Thanks, UMT

OK, thanks for verifying that. UMT

I'm not joking! I read on another thread that a 5 speed manual doesn't have a FWD, but I followed the Owners Manual and there was a fuse there. I'm really sorry if this is a stupid question but I would like to know about it. Thanks, UMT

I have a 99 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport 5 Speed Tranny with 195K miles on it. Started a different job and am traveling about 80 miles a day. Anyhow, I've done different things to improve mileage and so far, I've got some improvement but I was browsing the forum over the weekend and there was a somewhat related discussion that got me to thinking so............................. Tell me if removing the FWD fuse may improve my gas mileage and/or if there are problems that can pop up doing this? Thanks, UMT

Ahhhh, I see now! Thanks a bunch! UMT

Allright! Thanks alot. Will order some new seals today!

Thanks. My seals do kinda look like the old ones! Ha. I'm just wondering where the oil came from? Don't seem to have any leaking valve gaskets or anything.

Ok, so I was changing the spark plugs on the 99 Subby Outback Sport the other day and when I pulled the spark plug wires, they are all covered with oil! Got the plugs out and the plugs are covered with oil. Spark plug tips are nice and white. Car doesn't seem to use any oil or smoke. Runs like a top. Any ideas? Thanks, UMT

That might be it. When I went to put the neg cable back on, fully tightened, it was still loose. Put a finishing nail between the cable and post as a temporary fix. My keyless remote still doesn't work. Going to replace the battery in it tomorrow and see what happens. All is ok now, but strange stuff...

Done, Brother Man! I'm really not into ouiga! I'm more of a snake handling, voodoo chicken bone rattlin' kinda guy! Ha.

I'm not really aware that the car has a factory alarm system. I drove it home 20 miles with it doing that, disconnected the negative battery cable for about an hour, started it back up, hit the little button under the dash, and it's quit. (For now?) I'm just wondering what might cause such stuff.

Nope! No aftermarket alarm system.

There I was, leaving work in my 99 Subaru Outback Sport. I turned on the key, started the car and all of a sudden, my dome light, marker lights, open door light on are flashing, and the doors would automatically lock like every 5 seconds????? WTF, over! Has my car been invaded by aliens? Poltergeists? Oh yeah, my doors remote control doesn't work all of a sudden? Somebody tell me what is up with this! Thanks, UMT

Well, guys! The light went out by itself! For about 1 1/2 weeks. Then it came back on! So, I did the Seafoam thing: 1/3 brake booster vacuum, 1/3 in the crankcase and the last third in the gas tank. (U Tube 'Seafoam' and there are several video's) 1 day later: light is gone. Getting MUCH better gas mileage! Car is running great with 193k on it. I'm still looking at replacing the PCV valve and going to test the oxygen sensors but I'm also going to change the plugs as they are overdue. Question: Alot of guys say NGK. Standard or 'Platinum?' The last set of plugs I put in were a real fancy pair by Bosch that were supposed to give me 2-3 MPG gas mileage and it never happened. Kinda soured me on paying big bucks for plugs. What makes the 'Platinum' so much better? Any experience? Thanks, UMT

It's the big bolt. It snapped off about 1/4" into the hole. Thanks for all the tips on using heat. Guess I learned a lesson the hard way. UMT

Uh, it was yesterday and the first day I've had a chance to work on it in 2 weeks. Normally, I can change out a brake and rotor in an hour or less. C'mon, Dude. Thanks, UMT

There I was, putting new rotors/front brakes on Ye Olde 99 Outback Sport! The drivers side went slicker than snot. All was going well on the passenger side until I got to the LAST bolt! (why is it always the last bolt?) It's the bolt that holds the part of the brake assembly to the 'wheel.' Try as I might, I could not get that bolt to budge. Lubed it all up with Liquid Wrench, let it sit and tried a electric impact wrench on it, to no avail. Got out a longer 1/2 " drive socket wrench and put in on the impact socket, put a piece of pipe over the wrench and using my almost Superman like strength, I got it to move! I says: "Aha!" I pulled on it to turn it some more,,,,, and the bolt twisted off. A friend of mine had suggested putting some heat to it first, but I didn't! (Live and learn) So now I'm looking at using an 'EZ out' to get that bolt out. It has to come out in order to get the old rotor off the wheel. Any suggestions, hints or whatever on making this job a little easier? What is the size of that bolt anyway? Thanks, UMT

Well, lo and behold, I started the car tonite and the light went out by itself. (?????? Maybe it just burnt out after being on for 2 weeks! Ha. Oh, well. I'm going to check some things anyway and see if I can find anything obvious. Thanks! UMT

Yep, the code on the slip reads: P0420 "Catalyst efficiency below threshhold" Ok. So where do I start to try and figure out what this is? Thanks, UMT

1999 Impreza Outback Sport. Engine light came on about a week ago and finally got to Autozone and the put the code reader on it. 1) Rich air/fuel mixture 2) Oxygen sensors 3) plugged catalytic convertor... Guy who checked it for me was a Subby owner. Said first check the air cleaner. Looked at it this morning and it is fine. He said to remove the oxygen sensors and clean them, that may clear up the problem. Another guy I talked to said that was a waste of time. Lastly, pull the catalytic convertor and see if it's plugged up. So, tell me about oxygen sensors? Are they able to be cleaned? If I have to replace, are the aftermarket parts any good? Do I need a special tool to pull them? Checking gas mileage and thinking it may have gone down some. Any and all advice appreciated. Thanks, UMT

Thanks to all! I took a closer look at the picture of the rotors that I am going to buy and see exactly what you are all talking about. I LOVE this place! Thanks again, UMT

Ok folks, Getting ready to replace front brake rotors as they are long overdue for replacement. Will replace the pads (which I've done several times) while I'm at it. I'm thinking the axle nut may be a be-otch to get off? Do I need a impact wrench? What size is the nut? 99 Impreza Outback Sport.. Steer me in the right direction before I get started as I now live out in the boons and am miles from a parts store. Thanks, UMT

Hey, thanks alot! I tried your advice and shot some oil in there, waited a few minutes, and the hatch opened right up! Appreciate it! I never would have thought of this. Thanks, UMT

Ok, wired up my 99 Outback Sport with a trailer hitch as I'm moving this week and pulling a trailer. Looks like the last time I closed the hatch, the trailer wire was right in/or by the U hook that holds the hatch closed. Now I can't get it to open! The 'hook' that goes thru the 'U Hook' that keeps the hatch closed,,,, does that 'hook' on the passenger or drivers side??? I'm thinking I can get a screwdriver in there to help release it???? Any other ideas???? Thanks, UMT

Well, decided to just get a new knock sensor when I found one on Ebay from Chandler Motors in Wisconsin. $20.00 DELIVERED. Got it in 3 days. Pulled the old one and could not see any cracks of any sort but where it sat on the engine block was a bit corroded. Probably could have just cleaned it up and used it again but decided to install the new one and kept the old one for a spare, should I ever need one, which is probably doubtful at this point. Total R&R time, about 20 minutes. Piece of cake. This car always ran well but it seems to run even a bit better with the new knock sensor! Makes sense I suppose, now that the 'little men with the very fast calculators' are getting better input! Ha. Anyway, thanks to all who posted for the information and advice. UMT