UMT

Ok, I also read a bunch of the threads re: resetting the ECU and am going to try the 'pull the ground cable for 30+ minutes' method this afternoon and see if that helps. I will keep you fine folks posted on the results.

Ok, I'm good ,,,,, but not that good. 'Resetting the ECU via the scan tool.'' Can you explain that to me? I think I know what you are getting at but I'm not sure. Thanks!

This is my 2nd Subaru. Bought at 105K miles and now has 171K. Well taken care of since new. Regular maintenance performed by myself. Have just noticed in the past 2 weeks that I've developed a 'engine lag' between 2000 and 2500 on the tach. Engine seems to bog down at that point and once past 2500, everything is back to normal. I'm in the north country driving in the winter but it seems to do it whether the engine is cold or fully warmed up. Never noticed before and I would have. No warning lights or anything out of the ordinary. If can borrow a code reader. Do you think the problem would show up on the reader? Anybody have a similiar problem and cure? Thanks!

Thanks much! Very nice to know. Guess I'll have to find the 'caliper bracket'... I didn't look very hard behind the hub. I was just thinking of my old Chev/Fords = give 'em a slight wack with a hammer and they came right off... Thanks Again!

I'll be checking those too as that was mentioned in one of the old 'soft peddle' threads. WHILE I'm AT IT: I was looking at the rear wheels. Looks like there is a nut holding the rear 'rotors' (wheel?) on??? I take it that nut has to be removed to pull the 'wheel' and look at the rear brakes???? Anyone know what size that nut is? (I may have to buy a bigger socket than what I have now) Thanks.

Thanks, so far everybody! I also found all the old threads on the 'soft peddle' issue so apparently this isn't a new problem. I read all the old threads and will keep plugging away until I get it figured out. When I do, I'll be sure to let the forum know. In the meantime, if anyone has any further thoughts and/or ideas, I would still love to hear them.

Yeah, I had a buddy help me. I'm thinking about getting a Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Tester rig though so I don't have to chase around trying to find a buddy that's available.

I'm a Do It Yourself guy and have done alot of work on my 99 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport. Owned a Forester before this one. Anyhow, I knew the front brake pads were getting thin so decided to replace them. Job went fine other than when I pulled the calipers, the 'brake shims' were rusty, worn off in spots and generally in just poor shape. Called around and just could not find a parts house that had the brake shims so I just put the new shoes in and put it all back together without them. This is my only car so..... Rotors did not look bad at all so I did not replace them either. (They didn't look like brand new, but no big grooves or anything in them) Bled the brakes thoroughly starting with the tire farthest away from the master cylinder. I've now got several hundred miles on these brakes and the peddle is still soft unless I pump it at least once. The brakes seem to operate fairly well but I'm not comfortable with the overall performance of the braking system. The shoes just don't seem to 'grab' like they should. Please, I know I could be berated for not replacing the rotors, waiting until I could get shims, etc... but any ideas here for me? Do those super thin brake shims make that big a difference or are they there primarily for noise reduction? (I lubed the contact points on the pad and there is no noise) Did I miss something while bleeding the brake system? Should I have replaced the rear pads at the same time? All helpful ideas appreciated! Thanks in advance!

99 Impreza Outback Sport. Long story but the used car dealer I bought this car from had some hack in there trying to replace a windshield with a used one. Windshield is fine however, the outer rubber seal/moulding that goes along the top of the windshield must have been destroyed and not replaced. No leaks or anything but am now noticing rust started to form underneath the paint where that moulding should be so am going to sand it down, primer and paint. Called the dealer yesterday and they want $30 for the moulding. He also mentioned that I am probably going to need 5 'clips' at 2.82 each. I'm half tempted to see if I might be able to find some generic rubber moulding to put in there! Anyone have any experience with this 'moulding' and clips? Any ideas/suggestions? Thanks, UMT

One last comment, the ONLY way to change spark plugs is to remove that Intake Air Box and the Washer tank. They both come off easily. Trying to R&R those plugs with those two items in the way would make a simple, fairly easy job turn into a knuckle busting pain in the rump roast. UMT

Well, done deal. Piece of cake. Took about two hours and I was basically putzing around and not trying to set no speed records and yes, helps if you have decent set of tools. Intake Air filter box basically removes with 2 bolts making it easy to get at that side. Windshield washer tank is 2 bolts and unplug 2 hoses and 2 electrical connections and wallah! ,, that side easy to get to. Much easier than it looks at first glance. Once again, Thanks To All for your hints/etc.... UMT

Gentlemen, Hey, appreciate the tips and hints! Thanks for your help! UMT

99 Impreza Outback Sport... I want to inspect and probably change the spark plugs on my Impreza and I realize that the job is a pain in the rump roast but I like to do as much of my own wrenching as I can. Can anybody tell me any likely problems/hints regarding changing plugs?? My first question would be: When standing facing the car, I tried to pull the left front plug as it appears to be the easiest to reach and wanted to inspect that plug as I bought the car used and haven't the slightest idea when the plugs were last changed. I pull and pull on that plug wire end and I can't seem to get it to break. I realize there is suction there at the plug itself and I didn't pull hard enough to possibly damage plug wires. Is this normal? Secondly: It looks like the easiest way to do this job is to pull the air cleaner housing and the windshield washer tank. Is this correct? Any tips/help would be appreciated. Thanks, UMT

Nipper, Hey, thanks for the info and all the links! Guess that answers that question, huh? One thing I'm wondering about though: if enthanol is so corrosive, how come you don't have the same problems using E10? Near alot of bigger cities, that's all you can get! Obviously, it would take alot longer than E85 but still..................... UMT

Hello Forum! I know this subject has been talked about in the past but maybe it's a good subject to visit again due to the high price of unleaded gas. My current Subaru is a 99 Impreza Outback Sport with 140, 000 miles on it and still runs like new! I recently visited my brother who is a farmer and lives in 'farmer land', of course. It was dark and I stopped in the closest little town to his house to fill up and mistakenly filled the tank with E85. Ye Olde 99 Subaru Outback Sport never missed a lick. Ran like a champ! I sell RV's on a seasonal basis and ran into a old timer at the dealership yesterday who was considering a Class A or Class C motorcoach and we got to talking about gas. He was a rather eccentric older fellow but he really knew his stuff about E85. (Way more than I did) He says that in order to run E85, a vehicle needs a bit larger fuel injector nozzles as what it really does is clean out any deposits,etc. that may be in your lines, tanks, etc. and will foul injectors and possibly plug up fuel filters. He also mentioned that it has a higher octane rating (110? apx) and may cause a non E85 car to idle a little fast. (Which means you may have to hold the ole Subaru back if sitting at a stop lite with a automatic transmission) He said he had experimented a little bit with his non E85 certified vehicle and found the best way for him was to put 5 gallons of unleaded gas in the tank and then fill it up the rest of the way with E85. E85 is selling for about $2.00 per gallon around here compared to $2.90 for regular unleaded so obviously, I thinking of running some more thru the Sport... Anybody have any experience with running mass quantities of E85 thru the older Subaru's???? Thanks, UMT

Sorry folks, hope this subject hasn't been beat to death but wondering what year/make/model Subbies will run on E85 fuel? If you could point me to a link or something? Thanks, UMT

Nah, if you don't tighten the gas cap up,,, it will turn the check engine light on. I know my cap was getting bad anyway as I had it over to AutoZone with similiar problem last week. I'm really more curious to know how to reset the 'check engine' light... Thanks, UMT

Well, went and put gas in the 99 Impreza Outback Sport today and the price of gas shocked me so much, I drove off without putting the gas cap back on!!! Funny thing was, the 'check engine' lite didn't come on until I went about a 100 miles... Picked up new gas cap and I'm sure that's what the problem is but how do you go about clearing that 'check engine' light? Thanks, UMT

Didn't modify any wiring as it is prewired from the factory. I was told that Subaru no longer makes cruise kit for 99 models but local dealer said dealer in New York had one sitting on the shelf so I called and the guy shipped it to me for $80.00!!! Was tired of it sitting around apparently. Looked at the instructions and thought I could do it myself. Cruise install went well but then car wouldn't idle properly. I did (per instructions) unhook the negative battery cable during install. Played with it all weekend and couldn't get the car to run with the Air Flow Sensor plugged in so unplugged it and drove to local dealer this morning. The 'resealed' the air filter and basically cleared the trouble codes, plugged the Air Flow Sensor back in and it runs perfect. $48.00 bill... UMT

Hey, folks. I have a 99 Impreza Outback Sport. Installed FACTORY cruise control last night. Cruise works great but all of a sudden the check engine lite comes on and the car won't idle. Discovered that if I disconnect the Air Flow Sensor on the air cleaner, the car will run. Still idles rough but will run. Anybody ever have any experience with this type of thing? Thanks In Advance, UMT