UMT

Shoot! I forgot the code! Guy just said it was either PCV or O2 Sensor as it was 'running rich.' Thanks for the help, I'll try to get it again.

Just that the 'check engine' light came on some time ago. Had a code reader put on it and got the code for bad PCV/O2 sensor. Installed new PCV and engine light still on. Doesn't seem to affect gas mileage and I have 200K on the car, so I haven't been too concerned about it. Had some time to look into it but as I said, I've read different opinions about which one is usually the culprit on the forum. Car runs like a top but that light is starting to annoy me! Ha., UMT

Yeah, I knew that. The problem is that I live a good 60 miles from the nearest Autozone. I only spent 4.99 for the socket. Cheaper than gas, etc... Thanks.

OK, I found it. Looks like I was looking at the 2nd one. Which one is usually the problem, front or back? These things are a PIA, by the way. I did purchase a 3/8 special socket to remove them from Harbor Freight (beings that I don't plan on making a living doing this) for 4.99, and it works great. Well built and the 3/8 one has an offset which makes things easier. (In my case anyway)

I read the board quite a bit and I've heard that it is usually only necessary to replace the front one????? Did I get this wrong? UMT

Ok, having 'check engine' lite on constantly and have narrowed it down to O2 Sensor. 99 Impreza Outback with J223 engine. I found the one in front of the catalytic convertor but, for the life of me, can't find the other. Isn't this supposed to have 2 O2 sensors? I looked at the back of the converter and if it's there, it's very well hidden. What's up with this, guys? Thanks, UMT

Here, here. By the way, I bought a 'one man bleeder' from Harbor Freight. Cheap but works good. Creates a vacuum, loosen the bleeder and air/fluid flows into a bottle. Check it out if you don't have someone handy to pump brakes for you. Make sure you bleed them brakes!

No, I originally got the rotors from Auto Zone. I don't remember which brand but they were only about 22.00 a piece... Try DavesDiscountAutoParts... Fast delivery, knowledgeable people on the phone, great prices. I live out in the sticks, so I have to factor in driving expense when trying to find parts.

I've got 202,000 miles on my car so I'm not blowing money on the most expensive parts I can find. I've never had any problem with parts from reputable manufacturers. I used ceramic pads, the cheapest ones Daves Discount Auto online had. Raybestos on the calipers... They work great. Maybe the pads won't last as long as some more expensive brands, but pads are easy to replace. UMT

I ended up buying Raybestos reman calipers from Daves Discount Auto Parts online. Fabulous service, fast delilvery. Core charge was only 8.50 so didn't even bother returning core as postage would have been more. Bought shoes there also. I can't believe you can turn rotors for less that buying new ones. (20.00?) I rebuilt my caliper and still had issues. I suggest just buying reman calipers, new rotors and shoes. Saves alot of grief and maybe even some money in the future. I learned the hard way. UMT

Well, I've been putzing with this for a couple weekends now. Finally decided I was going to order a reman caliper for the side that was giving me trouble, a new set of brake shoes and try the 'new' rotor that I bought from Autozone to determine if that was really the problem. Pulled the old rotor and shoes and they were worn badly on one side. Not good. So put on the new caliper, new pads, old 'new' rotor and WALLAH!!!!!!!!!!! Apparently that caliper decided to act up at the same time I was putting new pads and rotors on. Weird, but one of those coincidences I guess. I never did diss Auto Zone or Advance and ultimately decided that the parts they sold me were fine. The important thing to me is that I KNOW what the problem was and it wasn't theirs. Bought the new parts from Daves Discount Auto Parts online. Great prices, FAST shipping and good service.

Well, managed to get it all back together and appears to be working good. I'm still going to buy some new pads and a reman brake caliper as I don't trust this one any longer. When I get the parts, I'm going to put that new rotor back on and see if the same problem develops.

Ok, I got the oil seal back in. Held it in numerous places with some small clamps as I worked my way around. Now, what about that cylinder? Help!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ha. UMT

I was going to bring back the old thread but it was getting long. Ok, so I studied the situation and took the caliper apart, got the piston out and needed a little cleaning, etc.. Inside of the piston cylinder looks/feels perfect. So, I cleaned everything up and am trying to put the piston back into the cylinder and that sucker DOES NOT want to go in. I get it started and then it stops? Help me out. I thought it should slide right in there????? Also, like a dummy, I pulled the inner rubber oil seal out and now when I try to put it back in it seems like it's 1/2" too long. Any tips here? Thanks in advance, UMT

Sorry, but I have to use the car every day and can only get to it on the weekends. Going to try to get at it this weekend and get ahold of the parts store. So far, the old rotor, the 'now old' ceramic shoes are working great but I'm not going to rely on them. I will keep the board posted.... UMT

I could think of a half dozen things that MAY have happened running a bad rotor. I KNOW the rotor is bad. The break shoes are worn out after 2000 miles or less. They are 'guarantied' for 2 years. I shouldn't have to say that I'm being honest when I say that I never had a problem until I put a faulty rotor on. I'm not looking to get anything but a new rotor and some shoes for the right side. I've got no problem with Advance Auto either. They didn't make the parts. I'll probably end up going to the manufacturer, and the CEO if I have to. (I'm good at this shat!) To be perfectly clear, I'm saying that a bad rotor ultimately caused a problem with the caliper piston. I may be wrong. I may be totally correct. But I will find out in the end and keep those who may be interested posted. Thanks, UMT

You may have a point, but it seems awful strange to me that I didn't have a problem before I replaced the rotor. I was close to needing new brakes but did the job as more of a 'preventive maintenance' measure. I'll see what happens before I totally place any blame, but I know I did a good job of replacing the rotors and disks. The left side works great!

Well, I bought the rotors and disc's from Advance Auto and now we are going to see what they'll do with their guarantee.... I have a feeling that because I'm not a pro-technician, they are going to say 'installed incorrectly.' We'll see. I like to do everything I can myself and learn more about my car at the same time. What's the worse that can happen? I screw it up and have to buy a rebuilt? Or I learn how to do it myself? I'll let you know guys know what happens when I get a chance to tear into it again.... Thanks, UMT

Yeah, I've cleaned and lubed everything. It's just that I had the piston out a bit the other day and cleaned and lubed where I could and even with the brake fluid zirc all the way out, it seemed to go back in hard using a 4" C clamp (which I've used for years)... Brakes work fine but I'm generating a little heat on that side and I don't want that. I had replaced the rotors/pads and the left side works fine but nothing but grief on the right side. I suspect I got a bad rotor out of the box. Checked it with a micrometer and there seems to be some high/low spots. Cleaned up the old rotor and put it on and it works 100% better but I still want to make sure that piston is releasing like it should and would feel better getting it all of the way out and REALLY cleaning and lubing.

Ok, the saga continues. 99 Impreza Outback Sport Replaced both rotors and installed new ceramic pads. Left side, works great. Right side? Trouble from the start. I think my major problem is the brake caliper isn't releasing like it should. Is it my understanding that you remove the caliper, pump brakes until the piston is out as far as it will go, clean and relube obviously making sure all the pins, etc. are also cleaned and lubed? Will that piston come all the way out? Appreciate any advice or help. Thanks, UMT

It appears that I have the same problem. Replacing rotors and used ceramic pads on my 99 Impreza Outback Sport and had a problem with the passenger side when I broke off a bolt getting the calipers off. Finally got the bolt out and replaced it but then noticed I still had a 'vibration, slight knocking' on occasion. Looking into the problem, I found that the rotor was very hot. Took it apart again and lubed everything up and seemed to correct the problem but OCCASIONALLY, it acts up again and I noticed today that the passenger side wheel is still hot while the drivers side isn't... I've double checked the entire assembly and everything seems tight. (steering, axels, etc) What do you guys think? Thanks in advance, UMT

99 Impreza Outback Sport with frozen, twisted off head on the bolt that holds front brake caliper to the steering hub. I had posted earlier about this dilemma regarding how was I going to get this bolt out. We discussed heat, drilling, rethreading, etc. I had also talked to some local old boys who had been techs, etc. and one guy told me: Get it red hot, and then immediately spray water on it till it's cool to the touch and that bolt will come right out. Sounded kinda far fetched to me.... So, there I was with no heavy duty torch, all I had was a little orange butane torch from Harbor Freight. But,,, I had to give it a shot. So, I set the piece on a vice and maneuvered it so I could set the torch down, light it and walk away as I knew it would take a while. 20 minutes later, I checked on it and it was hot, but obvious that it wasn't going to get red hot but I figured I'ld crank on it and see what happens. I put my monster vice grips on it while hot and ........... nothing. At that point, I thought I'ld try the cold water thing so I sprayed it down till it was cool, put said monster vice grips on it again and WALLAH! One tight turn and the rest of it came out with just my fingers. Brakes back together and working fine. I couldn't believe it so I thought I'ld pass this little trick onto the forum as everyone here has been good to me. Can't hurt to try it when you are in a pinch. UMT

I'm going to be changing out the valve cover gaskets on my 99 Impreza Outback Sport. Any tips/tricks, things to watch out for before I get started? Thanks, UMT

Interesting. I have to double check which fuse I pulled but I was following the diagram in the owners manual not thinking that the owners manual probably applies mostly to automatic transmissions.

It's a manual transmission.....