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Found 4 results

  1. The gauge stays in the middle when the car is on.Even when only the ignition is on, it goes to the middle. Then back down when the car is off.Goes straight to the middle on a cold start, and stays there when warm and never moves (until I turn off the engine).I unplugged the coolant temp sensor (CTS) and turned on the ignition (not the engine) and the gauge went to the middle again. This also kicked on the cooling fans.Then I unplugged the temp sender unit (right next to the CTS) and the gauge still went to the middle again when I turned on the ignition.What is wrong here? Any ideas?
  2. Still tinkering away on this 85 DL with an EA82 and a Hitachi carb. To date, I've replaced half shafts, strut mounts, struts, sway bar bushings, plugs, wires, rotor, cap, fuel pump and filter, along with a new compressor and accumulator for the a/c. I ran the car that way a week or so (77k miles on it now) and I started getting an ECS Code for temp sensor. It also would cut out on me occasionally around 70 mph on the interstate acting like it was starving for fuel. Today, I rebuilt the carb and swapped out the temp sensor. She started up and idled pretty good, but I noticed the temp gauge was climbing rather quickly, and after just a few minutes, it was in the "red" zone (no temp numbers on my gauge). The aux fan did not kick on either. I shot the temp sensor with my laser thermometer and it was about 190F. According to the cheapo Haynes manual I have, normal operating temp is 212F. With that in mind, I decided to take it for a test run. Runs much better at highway speeds with better acceleration on the top end, even made 75 mph with the a/c running. The temp needle never moved any higher (or lower for that matter), and I didn't get an ECS code, so I drove on home (approximately 20 minute drive). When I got there, I popped the hood and noticed the aux fan running as it should. I shot the temp sensor base and it was 202F. All that being said, it appears to me that the "new" sensor for the gauge might not be working properly. It is the two spade connector, and with no ECS code, I'm leaning toward a faulty sensor. Temp needle rode just north of center with the old sensor, but of course it would end up throwing a code... Anyone else have this happen? Also, am I incorrect about the operating temps?
  3. So, I nursed this 90 Legacy wagon home yesterday. Former owner was an elderly lady that only went to the grocery store, dr & church. It turned over 114K on the way home. Over a 90 mile mostly highway drive the temperature would occasionally start climbing to the top of the gauge and I finally discovered that if I stood on the gas briefly it would come back down to normal and stay there for a while. I stopped the first time to check on it and I didn't see any signs of over heating other than some barely perceptible bubbling in the over flow reservoir. I'm thinking this is a thermostat issue. Anybody else seen this? It's my first Subaru and I have to tell you, this car is very comfortable to ride/drive. My regular ride is an 04 Grand Am that is out of commission momentarily but is hopefully going to be undergoing a 3.4L to 3.5L swap very soon. Thanks in advance for the help.
  4. Hey all, I am trying to button up all the loose ends with my EJ22 swap. This button has to do with wiring the EA cluster to the EJ Temp Sender. I tried doing a parallel resistor. Not sure if I did it correctly. I put a 270 ohm resistor where the EA gauge cluster wire meets the EJ Temp Sender wire, then connected the resistor to ground on the body. There is no change. My gauge reads way past the "H". Does the same if there isn't a resistor. I tried putting it inline, just to see what happened. The needle then wouldn't move past the bottom line. I know that it isn't overheating. It does this after a cold night, and only turning the key to the "ON" position. Fans work correctly as well. I know I need to just do an aftermarket setup, but I'm in the midst of moving from SD to CO, and I just want a little peace-of-mind-reference for the temp.... If I were to attach the resistor to the signal wire coming off of the sender (I mean attaching it within an inch or two of the actual sender), then to a ground, will that affect the signal going to the computer? Will this mess up fuel economy? Throw a CEL? Are there any pictures of what a parallel junction looks like? I am kinda guessing. I've done a few searches (more than a few), with multiple search entry options. Not trying to take up USMB's space.... Thank you for your time, Greg
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