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Throwing this out to the community for help. I'm looking to buy/borrow/copy the driver used to release the rear wheel bearings from an EA-series trailing arm. I've got two sets of wheel bearings that need changing and I'd REALLY prefer to not use a punch to break these guys free. Any leads you can provide will help.
When you suspect you have a bad wheel bearing: droning noise, scraping sound occurring randomly or on turns, before you jump to any conclusion: CHECK the AXLE staking nut. If it comes loose, the bearing will behave as if failing. The staking nut on my 2008 is torqued to 160 ftlbs. It had come loose after a year, for some reason. If I had tried that early, I might have been able to just tighten it, saving the seals and myself a whole lot of learning. Instead, after seeing the wheel wobble, I "knew" it was a bad bearing. Having been thru a couple legitimate bad/burnt bearings before, I decided I should buy the press and bearing pusher tool. The 12 ton press was more than sufficient. The 2 Youtube videos on Forester/impreza gloss over a critical point, that when you are pressing out the old inner race, you need to use the undersized tool, (65mm I believe), and although it does not fit correctly, it works. DO NOT USE THE 72MM TOOL. My excuse is that it was late Saturday night and I was tired, but the way it fit so well let me press on the casting 'way too hard, expecting the 'pop', and feeling stupid. I was just pressing on the knuckle casting. I went inside and sat down. It was at this point I realized the possibility that the stake nut was just loose, and the whole thing was probably a mistake, but now I had it in pieces. I heated the knuckle in the oven the next morning, when my eyes worked, and using the 65mm tool, the press slid out easily. It DOES require a press. I seriously doubt you could tap it out with a chisel. I used the skf hub kit, which DOES NOT COME WITH SEALS, and got new seals, and it all went back together nicely. You need a "bearing separator" if you want to reuse your old hub. I piece of 1-5/8 id exhaust tube slotted up the side works well for setting the inner race on the hub. Don't forget the outer seal first. I torqued the stake nut, went for a drive, then torqued it again and staked it. I had to take the wheel off once more to bend the scraping backing plate, after the brakes warmed up. Apparently the disc expands a few mm when hot. The seals were probably damaged by the wobble, and maybe the bearing also, so ....whatever. Oh yeah, 2008 Forester NA 4EAT
So, since I lost my Job after Fourteen Years, due to political reasons, (and I am Not a political person), I've been helping more people to Fix their Cars' problems, not only old-school Subarus, and as the Newer models has OBD / OBD II systems, I am really in Need to obtain a Good Scan Tool for these cars, because I don't want to bother a friend who has one, each time I need to use it. So, which one is considered as the "Best Option" balanced between price and usefulness? Somehow I am some sort of "Newbie" with this scan tools ... ... so please share with me your Knowledge, any advice will be greatly appreciated. Kind Regards.
This looks cool. Anyone Use it ? http://www.amazon.com/Tool-connection-1578-Drain-Plug/dp/B00FECIE66/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1429591670&sr=8-1&keywords=13+mm+square http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?item=420