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Found 4 results

  1. Well, as a recently-arrived forumster, I have more tales from the little Vivio. its 660cc 4cyl works quite hard- 4200rpm at 60mph +-. Recently I changed the head gasket and cam seals hoping to curb the leaking at the top of the engine, and the serious oil consumption, and basically to check the general engine condition. Without noting much difference between the condition of each piston, I rebuilt as best I could with new plugs, and no proper specs to help me except head bolt torque and valve clearances. I plan on rebuilding the whole engine this month, once my rings and seals kits arrive, as there is considerable smoke at higher revs, and the power seems down. Today I pulled the plugs and found some ugliness, especially cylinder 2... Left to Right, cylinders 1,2,3,4 respectively, 4 at the flywheel end. So the rebuild needs to go ahead urgently, I don't think I can use this car until it's fixed properly. I am stumped because the other car (Forester) has just decided to split its radiator too! two sick soobs...
  2. I am new to the forums but have a 2008 Forester with 111K miles. I had noticed over the last several months a pretty good drop in gas mileage along with some hesitation and a very slight stumble at idle. I had been deployed to Corpus Christi TX for several years and didn't have my tools with me so I paid a shop (who supposedly had a former Subaru mechanic) to put belts, hoses and plugs in the car at 85K. After reading on several forums about the challenges some had faced in replacing plugs on their's I decided to take the plunge. I bought plugs and wires and went at it this morning. I was surprised, after reading other stories, how easy it was. I was done in less than an hour. It was far easier than any V-8 or V-6 I'd ever done. As anybody knows, who's done this, when removing the front plug on the driver's side you have to put the socket on a short extension and start it in the hole and then add another extension. After doing that I pushed it in and was turning it by hand to engage the socket on the plug and it kept turning! After several turns I pulled it all back out thinking there must have been something in the socket keeping it from going on the plug. To my amazement the plug came out! It was not even hand tight! That and looking at the plugs which all looked like the one in the pic I'm convinced the shop in Corpus ripped me off and didn't replace the plugs. I don't think that plug in the picture I included is a plug with only 36,000 miles on it! Could be wrong but I don't think so. I also cleaned the maf sensor so now I'm anxious to see what that does for my mileage! Any comment, as always, welcome.
  3. Hellloooo USMB. First off, thanks for all the advice on here. I've been lurking for awhile, probably should have posted something earlier but anyway... like before I bought this flesh-colored wagon. 1987 GL wagon, carbed, Hi Lo tranny and 125,480 miles and lots of...let's call it character so I don't start swearing lol. First mistake-- didn't drive it much, towed it home. Replaced (new parts) water pump (old one dead) timing belts plugs (NGK R) Wires Dist Rotor Battery Has 1/4 or so new gas with a bit of sea foam Used Weber DGAV 32/36 Carb, trans-dapt mounting plate, 130/130 jets. No choke. Doesn't have air filter on it meow. I've also ripped out the interior and cleaned out the critters' collection). Sheesh that was a PITA. It seems that either engine mounts were sheared or the bolts fell off?? One of them doesn't line up. There's a bit of crumple around the hood zone, and no grill. I did some compression tests, and they are loooow. ($25 Harbor Freight tool) I tried to give each cyl 10 cranks, and did each three times. Removed all plugs. Didn't do wet test, from what I've read (source:internet) boxxer engine doesn't give best results for that? I can probably figure it out if y'all think I ought to tho. 3-70, 60, 75 psi 4- 70, 80, 80 psi 1- 80, 60, 70 psi 2- 70, 70, 80 psi This was warm. (I also did the same test cold (like at 40 degrees) and they were all 100-110 psi what gives?? I did procedure same same, maybe there was moisture in there, it had been sitting for awhile?) Also, if I keep cranking, it will keep going 100+, but doesn't jump a whole lot the first crank, 10-20psi. If I let it idle, it will eventually stall out with fouled plugs after 15-20 minutes. With clean plugs, when I run it at 3500 or so rpm for a few minutes (in neutral, it ain't regstrd yet), the plugs look like this--(left to right 1,2,3,4 cylinder) Odd, no? The #2 looks healthy, but the others are blackened. I guess "fluffy" describes it. If it won't start, it has been bc plugs are fouled, and #3 has been wet fouled. This is what I think, but I the stump has been chumped, and I would like your input. 1. The carb needs adjusting. There may be a small vac leak. The idle mixture screw doesn't seem to make much difference, although I think I can hear a sucking sound when I screw it all the way in (idle screw in = less gas for idle?) 2. The engine needs a rebuild, and the plugs will continue to foul until that is done. Headgaskets came to mind? but the exhaust doesn't smell sweet by any means. It blows out a bit of white exhaust I guess. I have had to fill the coolant, but I figured that was just the cooling system filling in? Something to keep an eye on anyhow. me--> What do you think? Is there any other info I can provide? All input is welcome! I appreciate all your knowledge and have learned a ton lurking. Thanks A Bend, OR (ps hope the images are large enough, they look small in preview...)
  4. I have noticed some missing in my 2006 WRX lately and, even though miles are low, according the the 'time' side of the schedule, it may need new plugs so, I ordered some. any hints, tips or warnings for pulling the wire boots, changing the plugs, access, etc. appreciated. anything else nearby I should inspect or change? thanx guys
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