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Vehicles

Found 4 results

  1. I’m a car nerd and a hobbyist mechanic learning by getting my hands dirty. I picked up a 2003 Forester, Pacifica Blue with ~170k, bone stock, a great body and interior, and one big issue – overheating. After pulling the engine I found that some of the coolant passages were plugged solid. Mystery solved. It’s a bit crude but the attached picture features a flathead screwdriver stuck into the calcification – that’s how dense it is. I have to assume the smaller internal passages are just as bad, though the water pump itself was clean and the passenger's side passages aren't *as* bad. I was told phosphoric acid cleaner would eat away at it, but would it really get it all? I know the most effective way would be to pull everything and have the block hot tanked. I’m worried I’ll jump into a money pit of pistons / rings / bearings if I go that route. The engine ran well, and I can still see factory crosshatching on the cylinder walls. IMO they don't look bad but other people say they do. It might get headers and exhaust some day but it will most likely remain totally stock. I have head / intake / exhaust / oil pan / valve cover gaskets, rear main seal, head bolts, thermostat, timing belt, water pump, and more waiting to go on. I’m pondering my options before the heads go to the machine shop. Because of new circumstances I need this to be my daily driver, so I'm trying to save money. On the other hand, I want to do things properly and reliably the first time. Advice has ranged from “chip away what you can” to “buy a different block” ... what would you do? High-res images here https://imgur.com/a/eGBDm Edit: attached another image - is that oil weeping past the rings?
  2. 1998 Legacy GT ive posted before about a duty c solenoid, im still struggling with other matters. Ive got big dreams for this car but im falling short . The current problem im experiencing is i took the car to a specialized subie shop i was informed there was an egr code, which is in reference to the egr valve and like components, ive exhausted all i can think of to fix it, i replaced the main component checked all vacuum hoses i could see and cleard codes. The weirdness about it comes when i mention that the car has a 96 2.5 JDM engine in it so i have a theory in which new and old ecm dont match and are causing chaos.... PLEASE HELP
  3. so recently ive been driving my turbo wagon daily, and now whenever i put gas into it or go up a steep hill and the gas gauge moves it dies when it dies i know its something electrical because i cant pop start it and the tach wont move when starter is running, but it'll start after a few minutes and i know when its about to start because the tach starts to jump when trying to start it ive never heard of anything like this before, so i was hoping someone may have had the same problem before and might know what to do. has been really frustrating lately
  4. The car is a 1991 Loyale, EA82 SPFI with AC, and the AC compressor is mounted inbetween the Alt and the PS Pump. 3 weeks ago, the bearings in the water pump gave up the ghost and it was flopping the clutch fan around and puking coolant. I replaced the Water Pump, Gasket, and Water Pipe O-ring with factory parts. Water pump was Subaru #21110aa026. That water pump came without studs, but I've seen that before on correct water pumps, so I picked up some bolts and snugged it down. Ran great for 3 weeks, then started making terrible noises. I opened it up today, and found 4 tight fan bolts, which have huge grooves worn through them now, and a water pump pulley that has beat its holes into ovals. FML. I search quite a bit, and I'm tired and sick. Can someone please tell me why this would happen?
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