I have a 1989 Loyale 4 wheel drive and I am trying to remove the drivers side axle. I have removed the tire and the brakes and the crown nut and just about everything else I could think of including the shaft spring pins. Can some one tell me what else I must do to remove and replace this thing.

undo the control arm bolt at the crossmember,,,,,then you can yank out and release from the trans stub shaft.

 

at that point you can take a rubber mallet to the end of the bolting surface and whack it out of the bearings.

cheers, brian

If you are trying to replace a front axle, do just what Monstaru said.

 

If you are trying to replace a Rear axle, put the brakes and the crown nut back on. The rear axles slide onto a stub at the wheel just like they do the diff, all you need to do is drive out the roll pin, and slide it off the stub. You might have to loosen the 2 nuts that hold the diff on the mustache bar to move it around some to do this, and you might need some penetrating oil (apparently Auto Tranny fluid works pretty good... Or get some PB Blaster), maybe a BFH and possibly a torch, if it doesnt want to slide...

 

The stub stays in the hub and you don't even need to take the wheel off!

 

-Bill

Thanks for your help.

Assuming your title is correct and you're doing a rear axle, then disregard all the control arm unbolting stuff - that's all front axle related.

 

Rear is just two pins. Knock out the pins and the axle slides off the stubs, no bolts at all for the actually axle. You'll likely need room to get it off though, I typically drop the diff, two bolts on the mustache bar and one huge bolt up top, leaving the driveshaft still connected. be advised, it is very heavy and awkward.

Contrary to the above, when I do rear axles, I remove the lower shock/coil over-bolt from the trailing arm. Don't have to mess with the diff this way. If you do it with the rear end on jack stands you can then put your jack under the trailing arm and jack it back into place and then reinstall the shock/coil-over bolt.

 

GD

sweet, i thought there had to be a simpler way if i ever need to do that.

 

i don't replace axles so i've never tried. since i put 100,000+ miles on broken boot rear axles and have never had one make any noise or break, i don't waste my time on them, broken boots or not. i've disconnected them many times though when installing rear LSD's so i'm familiar with doing it that way.

since i put 100,000+ miles on broken boot rear axles and have never had one make any noise or break, i don't waste my time on them, broken boots or not.

 

+1

 

I've had a broken outer rear boot for 9 years (maybe 60k mi.--hasn't been driven much). Shame on me--should've rebooted it a long time ago, but it's been so long, why bother? (I know this is almost inviting someone to tell me this is a terrible idea) I'm speculating that they don't have nearly the stress of the front joints, so I think I'll leave it until it misbehaves--hopefully this isn't woefully bad practice...