1995 legacy wagon 2.2L-4eat.

 

The rear subframe is completely rotten, the rest of the car is decent and we love it to death. I picked up a rear subframe from an 06 Imprezza wagon. Was a dealer demo that got totaled. I measured the mounting hole spacing and control arm length and it is the same......only on a subaru.

 

Any tips or tricks for subframe removal......i was thinking a sawzall would work nice. lol.

 

I have the FSM and one side was apart for a wheel bearing last fall, and it was all dropped down to change the gas tank in 05 (previous owner).

Just seeing if there are any time saving ideas out there.

 

Thanks alot, Ian

Edited September 26, 200916 yr by EastCoastEJ22T

Be patient and be ready to remove the whole rear end including the struts and rear spindles... doing it this way is almost easier. Be careful with the bolts going up into the frame. The weld nuts can break loose in the frame. If this happens you will have to make an access hole in the frame to get it apart.

SOAK in PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench (WD40 is not suitable for this). The more times you drench every nut and bolt before hand the better. I'd probably soak every nut and bolt I could a few times a week for a few weeks if the rust is bad.

 

Sawzall won't help since you need every bolt removed to reattach the new one.

 

I'd have some good torch equipment ready if there's any bolts that are accessible with a flame. Not for cutting, but for expanding rusted nuts.

Yeah I've been soaking down the whole assembly for a few weeks with ACF-50 and LPS-TKX (aircraft stuff i get from work for free)

 

The plate nuts in the frame are what worry me the most. It's really amazing the car has been "rust checked" regularly since new, and the rest of the car is solid......but the rear subframe is trashed, i could probably pull it apart by hand.

 

I'll dive in tommorow morning and update as it goes.

grossgary is right. Nothing beats rust better than a good oxy/acetylene torch. It can make the difference between broken bolts and ones that come out and can be reused. Be careful you are close to the gas tank. A mapp gas or propane torch won't get the bolts hot enough. also a good tap and die set is good to restore the nuts and bolts. Then reassemble with anti-seize compound. Taking your time and using the right tools (including the torch) will make all the difference. good luck

Undo the two studs that go into the differential cover, the 4 lower lateral link bolts (two are cam bolts) and the exhaust heat shield bolts. Take out the 4 bolts from the body, lower the diff and crossmember down, and rotate it off of the diff towards the rear.

 

Instalation is the reverse of removal. An impact gun is really handy, you can back out a bolt 1/4" spray it with penetrating oil, and run it back in and repeat, slowly getting more and more range of motion out of the bolt. Be really patient getting the 4 body bolts out, if they break it sucks so bad.