lrgvanman Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 Here it is 2025. Link http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html no longer works. I am working on replacing the clutch cable in my 1984 GL wagon. Having a battle with the pedal e-clip. The screwdriver just jumps out and I was going to try to nudge it with a gasket scraper, but I stopped for now. Eyesight, lenses and lighting, now the heat, it'll take a while... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushytails Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 I hate doing clutch cables. I've been tempted to stick in an ea82 pedal rack just for the easier clutch cable jobs, which I seem to do every year or two... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 5 hours ago, bushytails said: I hate doing clutch cables. I've been tempted to stick in an ea82 pedal rack just for the easier clutch cable jobs, which I seem to do every year or two... Are you sure you don’t have a crack in the pedal box around the pivot pin area on the left side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushytails Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 4 hours ago, moosens said: Are you sure you don’t have a crack in the pedal box around the pivot pin area on the left side? I think you meant to quote someone else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 No I meant you. That’s kind of a lot of cable changing. Common problem with the pedal box flexing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushytails Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 My cables start breaking strands at random points, then snap... just shitty aftermarket cables, combined with my doing a lot of city miles every day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrgvanman Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 (edited) Cable broke at the tuning fork sort of thing at the end that hooks to the clutch pedal. Also, the clevis pin wore out and acquired two grooves, adding to the slop. Subaru no longer has this clevis pin part so I got one at Ace Hardware about half an inch longer than the other one and I'm pretty sure it will work. I tried to send a picture but this site will not take a picture of that size. I will try again later. UPDATE: There it is below. I went to ACE and got a 5/16d x 1/4l clevis pin and the internal washers they had were incompatible. Either mine works after flattening with a hammer or I go the route of 10 flat washers and a hitch pin. We'll see. I haven't lost my touch with improvising. Edited June 17 by lrgvanman To add photo of topic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 (edited) Go back to ACE and get an metric allen bolt + nylon lock nut sized to fit. Edited June 18 by czny 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushytails Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 Just run the pin you have. The wear will be taken up by the adjustment at the release fork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrgvanman Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 Clutch is now much easier to disengage than the hydraulic one in my Chevy S10! After fixing this array, my right front axle went out, had to drive homr in 4wd. Yet another project. Thank you all for you kind suggestions and wishing you the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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