hatchsub Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Hey all. Well i thought that the bottom of my fenders were in pretty decent shape for new england. Turns out i was wrong. I pulled the passenger fender today only to find that the bottom 4 inches were pretty bad. I already made a patch panel (pictures to follow in my rust fixing thread) but i wonder about drainage. My question is these fenders rot out because of moisture that cant get out. Would it make sense for me to drill a hole (about the size of a spot weld hole) for a drain in my new patch? Or even two holes? Its down towards the bottom of the car so im not looking for it to look perfect. I just dont feel like having to go in there every few years and fix it again and a again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Hey all. Well i thought that the bottom of my fenders were in pretty decent shape for new england. Turns out i was wrong. I pulled the passenger fender today only to find that the bottom 4 inches were pretty bad. I already made a patch panel (pictures to follow in my rust fixing thread) but i wonder about drainage. My question is these fenders rot out because of moisture that cant get out. Would it make sense for me to drill a hole (about the size of a spot weld hole) for a drain in my new patch? Or even two holes? Its down towards the bottom of the car so im not looking for it to look perfect. I just dont feel like having to go in there every few years and fix it again and a again. Its not just moisture that gets trapped there, on many rigs the inner fender well (the plastic liner) is damaged or missing, so dirt and road debri and other contaminants get trapped in the bottom of the fender. Those things are what hold the moisture, causing rust. That and New England road salt :-\ The best thing to do would be to make new inner fender shields that will keep the road debri out of the pocket in the fender, but a small drain hole doesnt sound like a bad Idea either, and its easier. just keep the area clean so the mud and dirt doesnt hold moisture and rust out again. Oh and liberally apply undercoating/rust proofing to the inside of the fender as well. -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted December 2, 2009 Author Share Posted December 2, 2009 Thanks Bill. My inner fender liners are actually in really good shape so i gotta take a closer look at how the water and dirt and junk is gettin in there. I may or may not make that drain hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAugur33 Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Every wagon I have owned has had dirt build up in lower front fenders, even with the plastic shields. First thing I do when I get a new wagon is clean behind the fender and pray that there is steel between the mud and paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ettev Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 Isn't that lower fender attachment a bolted connection to the unibody? I think I undercoated the hell out of the back of the fenders and the body cowl area and then used some flat washers between the fender and the unibody to keep a gap there for stuff to escape or be hosed out through. It's usually stuff like leaves, swamp residue, etc that clogs up the that area. Just lays in there rusting stuff apart. Worst case just pop that bolt out of the bottom a couple times a year and give it a good power washing from up top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 I would box in the whole thing. Making it smooth to the wheel-well side with no possibility of debris or water intrusion. What *I* would do is find someone who can cut the lower section of the fender off for you from the west coast - send that in a flat rate box. Then braze the sucker to your fender with a lap joint and all is well again. Very little prep and some paint. Then spend your effort making the patch panel to box in the inside so it can't hold water and debris. Or you could come out here and wrench with me - then just replace the fenders GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted December 4, 2009 Author Share Posted December 4, 2009 I would box in the whole thing. Making it smooth to the wheel-well side with no possibility of debris or water intrusion. What *I* would do is find someone who can cut the lower section of the fender off for you from the west coast - send that in a flat rate box. Then braze the sucker to your fender with a lap joint and all is well again. Very little prep and some paint. Then spend your effort making the patch panel to box in the inside so it can't hold water and debris. Or you could come out here and wrench with me - then just replace the fenders GD HAHAHA dont tempt me. Its a possibility. As i said i was half serious but thats a big friggin move. That would be the only thing holding me back. As far as the fender goes I already made a new patch using the original as a template and welded it on. I think once its all painted no one will be able to tell the difference unless i show them. And then maybe not even. Ill post a picture of it in my rust fixing thread. Speaking of rust..i just spent all day cutting and welding in new rear floors in a Nissan 240sx. Note to self...those cars are built with crappier steel than old subarus. Didnt think it was possible. But..i am laying nice clean beads most of the time now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 Did the improved extension cord and gas help? GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted December 4, 2009 Author Share Posted December 4, 2009 Did the improved extension cord and gas help? GD Um YEA. lol. It made a huge difference. I can run nice clean beads without burning through (when im being careful still). Granted i also had the heat turned a up a bit cause its a floor and i wanted it to be strong. If i had turned it down to one im sure i could have just welded it right along and not burned through at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pksjeep Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 If you can get behind the sheet metal and back it up with a piece of copper, then weld the seam this should help with the melt thru. Don't weld in one spot too long, jump around. This will reduce your distortion also. Try to keep the panel fairly cool while welding. Sheet metal welding is tuff, good luck Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pksjeep Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 Sorry for the second post Make sure the metal is clean, no paint/rust grease or other foreign material, just bare metal. This foreign material will cause porosity and poor fusion between the base metal and the filler metal and cause you lots of grief. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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