December 3, 200916 yr Ok, well, I am happy to say that the replacement of the bushing was VERY simple and only required marking the distributor & block so that I got it back in the same place again. ***Edit!!*** sorry, I ment to mention that this is the distributor for my '85 subaru brat *** The only question I have now is related to the star shaped "gear" on the rotor shaft just below the rotor. I noticed that these "lobes" come very close to two tabs that are part of a plate that is attached to a magnet with two screws. I'm guessing there is a specific gap that needs to be between this "gear" and these tabs? I can't see any specs in my chilton book, guess that is because most just replace the whole distributor. zzz Thanks! :cool: Edited December 3, 200916 yr by FlyB0y info
December 3, 200916 yr Are you sure you can even set that gap? I thought it was fixed by the design of the advance mechanism..... been a while since I had one that far apart but...... GD
December 3, 200916 yr Author Well, yes, it's not really "fixed" because there is play where the plate screws down, and I was thinking I might just try to even it up, but I was hoping there was a specific gap it needed to have? Never been this far into a distributor before, so any thoughts you have would be greatly appreciated.
December 3, 200916 yr Author Well, I spoke too soon, I don't know if the shaft is just too warn, or if putting it in last night not having rotated the engine made it seem tighter, but I still have considerable play in the shaft, and it's doing the same thing again. Guess I should stick with the original plan and get a good replacement. Thanks for all the info though!
December 3, 200916 yr As I understood it, the bushing had to be bored out and it wasn't a particularly easy job. I take all mine to Philbin Manufacturing as it's not worth the hassle for the $75 they charge me to rebush and rebuild the vac can. GD
December 4, 200916 yr Author Yeah, I just got off the phone with Philbin earlier today, and I think my problem is that I only replaced the TOP bushing, the bottom one is probably the one that is so much trouble, that, and they replace everything needing replacement top to bottom for $159, seems worth it to me for the peace of mind. I just hope I can still take back the bushing.
December 4, 200916 yr 1990 SUBARU JUSTY GL 1.2L 1189cc L3 MFI (7) : Ignition : Distributor BushingPriceCoreTotalSTANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # DG69 w/ 0.627 Inch Bore Top Hat Bushing; Hitachi Distributor* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days $4.25$0.00$4.25 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # DG67 w/ 0.627 Inch Straight Bore Bushing; Hitachi Distributor* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days $4.93$0.00$4.93 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # DG68 w/ 0.6299 Inch Bore Top Hat Bushing; Hitachi Distributor* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days $5.79 Far as I know, if you look up bushings for a 1986 carbed Subaru, you'll see these same bushings. The two top hat are different size I.D. Edit: That's .0029 difference. Philbin says .002 clearance, shaft to bushing max. That gives you room to fit-to-shaft. I'm going to be doing a couple of these. Edit: I bought and installed some generic bushings that looked just like these...for shifter bushings. Edited December 4, 200916 yr by Quidam
December 4, 200916 yr 1990 SUBARU JUSTY GL 1.2L 1189cc L3 MFI (7) : Ignition : Distributor BushingPriceCoreTotalSTANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # DG69 w/ 0.627 Inch Bore Top Hat Bushing; Hitachi Distributor* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days $4.25$0.00$4.25 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # DG67 w/ 0.627 Inch Straight Bore Bushing; Hitachi Distributor* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days $4.93$0.00$4.93 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # DG68 w/ 0.6299 Inch Bore Top Hat Bushing; Hitachi Distributor* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days $5.79 Far as I know, if you look up bushings for a 1986 carbed Subaru, you'll see these same bushings. The two top hat are different size I.D. Edit: That's .0029 difference. Philbin says .002 clearance, shaft to bushing max. That gives you room to fit-to-shaft. I'm going to be doing a couple of these. Edit: I bought and installed some generic bushings that looked just like these...for shifter bushings. ..the ex. given for an '86 carbed has the "bushing" only on the bottom while the top is a "ball bearing" ..if memory serves me here, I believe the bearing is the same one or size used as a "pilot bearing" when re-doing the clutch..Napa has other bushing sizes available if needed...at least several yrs ago they did...
December 4, 200916 yr Hey Peter, Yea, and then there are the bearing type. GD has pointed out the opticals need the bearing for tighter control in that area. I don't see why a bushing wouldn't work there, IF you had tight control of the clearance. But mabie not? Old Chevys had a bronze bushing for the piolet bearing on the clutch setup. Way back when, I bought my first sealed roller bearing/piolet bearing to go with an 11" clutch setup. The instructions were clear about needing to check and make sure the input shaft was was centered in the bearing, or bad things would happen. Using cam shaped dowel pins, you adjust until you acheive that. Edit: Sintered bronze is oil impregnated, so I'm presuming that's what you would want for a distributor bushing. Doug Edited December 4, 200916 yr by Quidam
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