Petersubaru

any idea when the final cost plus shipping within the US will be available...

Using my "back to zero" timing light ..it reads the timing at 24…the engine has many miles on it which will somewhat affect vacuum …I use mid grade gas...

sounds very similar to my experience after my spfi conversion..the car didn't like the timing setting at 20…I first of all checked for vacuum leaks and then used a vacuum gauge as my guide to set the timing…green connectors unplugged..adjusted the idle screw on the electronic idle control switch..been good for many thous. of miles...

Will be replacing one very wobbly U-joint and thought I would try to remove some of the mystery still surrounding "Staked U-joints" by updating this thread from 2003 @ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/6848-u-joint-park/?do=findComment&comment=57415 …the joints can be purchased for ex. from the "U-joint Store @ http://www.theujointstore.com …A 16-17 Pt installation Video and Pics can be viewed here @ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTj0N9fsqGHi-p7m5gr9QHQ and also here @ http://www.f150forum.com/f72/replacing-staked-u-joints-175529/ ...

I have sold to US citizens that drive the car over the border themselves…very simple if the car is 25yrs old ...bill of sale and signed..plus the ownership of the vehicle…pay your tax at the border and continue to drive away...

I forgot to add that I used washers on each side of the bottom mount to prevent any side to side movement…I have some photos if there is a place on the web easy enough to use..

For my '86 4WD, I recently installed the kyb "gas adjust" version instead of the ExcelG which was to expensive and not readily available in N/A…also I was going to use the accord springs new from napa until I found out that I had a nearly new set of coils from another subi wagon … The gas-adjust spring perch sits 7/8" higher and after installing the newer subi springs and the necessary washers for extension rod stability, I was sitting 2 1/4" higher then previous…even with 200 extra lbs in the back made no change to the height,... so from hind sight, I am glad that I did not install any other "stronger" springs unless I went with a shock that has another inch extra of extension and the same perch height which is also available for the 4runner under a different # then what I purchased…since first installing the coil-overs, I have removed the thick upper rubber cushion (1/2" difference) to lower the car and give it a more even look to the height..with 185/70/13 tires, I have 8" of clearance from the exhaust (with original struts) and 8" of clearance below the rear-end..it drives well, feels definitely more solid with very little side to side movement…in my case, the real gain from these shocks are only 7/8" because when fully assembled and compared to the originals, the extra added height is only under an inch because of the perch position and extended shock arm/rod to accommodate the stock spring…the rest of my gain comes from replacing those org. weak and worn out springs and shocks..however with that said, new shock replacements are very weak compared to what i have now..there was very little difference in feel between my 25yr org vs the newer replacement by kyb…monroes are even softer, ..I'm happy

I have installed a new oil pump at my last timing belt exchange, simply because it was given to me..after attaching a separate oil pressure gauge, @ 3000 rpm gave 35 psi …perhaps the pressure may have gone up if I used a thicker oil, but personally I don't see a need to run thicker since the lifters make no noise and the vehicle runs very quiet and gets good mileage…I have been using 5w/20 for a very long time now..

You only need to take off one end to do both boots,,,I prefer to remove the inboard only and then slide both boots on

This will help..

My IAC is also no good when the weather gets cold, and in very, very cold weather it is absolutely no fun driving at all until once warmed up, then it will run very smooth..the temp sensor has been exchanged and the advance moved a couple of degrees ahead... using my vacuum gauge shows no leaks..needle is study

Perhaps this might help @ http://www.ch601.org/engines/files/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.pdf ..Page 91

I have had my own problems with Rockauto on several occasions and sometimes there is no other place to go because at times the pricing is just to good..I would suggest to get in contact with someone who actually handles disputes (not the sales reps)…Make them work...open a dispute claim/file... get the persons name and contact info so that pics can be sent..tell that individual you have no problem with their 30 day policy, but, challenge their position once again that the original part was wrong to begin with Supported with plenty of pics that they can see and that there own info is misleading.. ..also include supporting info from this thread…the fact that the intake hose will not fit the part correctly is reason enough that this part is from another vehicle..I have done this before and got my money back on brake parts and bearings and now I am in the process to send pictures of the wrong clutch kit send to me..that is a long story in itself…good luck and keep persisting (pestering)...

I removed the EGR and replaced with a sealed cover or plate..in general all vac lines should be plugged to avoid any unnecessary air into the breathing system etc....35,000 later still running like a top...

Since there are 4 holes on the head ..I went to a muffler shop and had them cut and twist the flanges to mate with the other 2 holes..the cuts were welded back up with a new center piece covering the entire part that was cut..double up with the gaskets and some high temp silicone between them....has lasted for many years now...use studs and nuts...

on sale on Ebay..very expensive..http://www.ebay.com/itm/P185-80R13-Maxxis-MA-1-90S-WW-White-Wall-185-80-13-1858013-Tire-/151100707133 or http://www.amazon.com/P185-80R13-Maxxis-MA-1-White/dp/B00CJG0JAY

Hopefully, when installing the timing belts you used the 3 lines on the flywheel and not the "O" degree mark to indicate TDC..

the first or original motor in my '86 developed the tick and the problem solved by just exchanging the cam tower "O" rings..the noise was loud enough to turn heads on the city street...having replaced the orig. motor with another one,(with a GD FI conversion) I still re-used the original lifters because the lifters in engine #2 were completely varnished solid within the head...between both motors the org. lifters have 300k/mi on them and remain quiet ..every so often I drive to Mexico and southern Texas when the temps are above 100F..the lifters always remain quiet, even when climbing the mountain in Big Bend NP (3000ft in 5 miles)...both fans roaring and the temp gauge remains near steady..for years now I have only used MC 5w/20 and with oil pressure at 35psi@3000rpm I am not to concerned...car has been consistently maintained since new..it's certainly not a flashly car, well worn and still getting the odd person who is amazed that it has not rotted away..(that is for another time)

Maybe manufactured differently then the Fram, but visually identical to the fram except for color..and still with paper end caps..after 6 months of usage the filtering element was brittle and one end cap was beginning to fray..

Has anyone ever measured how far the crack can go down before one should consider not using it, even if it passes the pressure test..this was a question asked of me from the machine shop..and I know from experience that if the crack goes down 1/2", I have never had a problem for many, many thous. of miles.. I do have a set of spare heads with one crack on each head, but the cracks go deeper, closer to 5/8" ...

..this was just covered.. here you go.. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=138282

Car-Parts.com

..google this problem and you will find thousands who have asked the same question..usually tired or slow responding voltage regulators..don't expect a rebuilt alt. to help here because most rebuilds never exchange the reg. unless they have to with a poorer quality one from asia..

All heads will develop a crack sooner or later..new or welded up..after 25 yrs of driving an Ea82, I have never had a problem from cracks that develop naturally.."naturally" meaning the cracks are more closer to hairline in size and were not created by the engine over heating thus warping the head..the only time that I have ever reused such a head (from over heating) only pushed the crack deeper into the water jackets...thus leaking slowly..

I had this problem years ago..the oil pump front showed some leakage although very slight..I ended up changing the small "O" ring as suggested earlier and the oil pump..all was well after that..if your lifters are highly varnished this also could be the problem as I have experienced with some elses vehicle..in my case all was very clean...