Petersubaru

this morning, pulled the thin shaft out and tubing..once it stopped, a little turn to the left and right and there it was in my hand..5 seconds on all..installed the new seal...with what took place today, it really is easy...more finesse and patience is needed here for this job and of course a somewhat strong bicept if you plan on doing this yourself...

..follow-up will come ..happy holidays

..PM sent..no problem pulling it out since I have no problem re-seating TC..a little more info would lead to more confidence...

went out and bought the seal just to be sure..the TC comes out several inches maybe 6" and I can clearly and with a good view see the tc seal and then it stops.. there has never been a problem with the tranny and has never been worked on..all org....I was reading on one of the other web sites about some else with this problem and he has been pulling hard at it... but no answer to the dilema

..it would be nice to exchange the seal..I don't know about the easy part..the TC plus the long shaft wants to come out and then stops..I can't go any further and info is very difficult to find...

I remember about 10 yrs ago Subaru Canada was selling complete with heads the remanf. units for about $300 US in those days..just unloading the unnecssarry stock no body wanted..I could use a block but i am afraid the shipping to michigan might be worth more the block...

it came out maybe an 1.5"..I pushed it back in with no problem..more importantly, will it still keep a seal...

this is the only subi automatic I have actually had to pull a motor for ..so on my '01 OB one of the long bolts got hung up on the TC and came a little forward dropping some fluid..can I just push it back in or does it need a new seal in back of it..I am only famillair with chevy 350's and we just slide them back in...

A little oil and coolant leak has started on the driver side..so the '01 OB heads with 120k/mi will have to be taken off..out of curiousity, I hooked up my Leakdown tester and found two cyl. where at 8 & 10% leakage coming thru the exhaust..The rest of the valves where tight with no discernable leakage.. those 2 cyl had 2-3% leakage... the two machine shops I called (one that does subi heads almost exclusively) recommended that all the valves and seats be ground.. I had asked them if they test their work for sealing and both said they use the water test method.. (filling up the exhaust and intake chambers with water and if it does not leak, it is good to go)..why don't places use vaccum or pressure to check valve/seat sealing??..I was also told that subi valves do leak.. why get the valves done if you may end up with them leaking anyway??..am I missing something by asking them about the tightness of the valves after their work??...

do the cylinders of the ea82 have a surface covering on them ..perhaps even sprayed on ?..the engine is out and with a light I can see small cracks everywhere ..almost like looking at weathered paint of a door that has been sitting in the sun for years...also small pieces of rectangular or square shaped material has flaked off and you can definitely feel the indents with your finger nail..

...I don't know what kind of coating they used, but a long time ago my first subaru HG job was actually removing a tar like material from everywhere..it was even on the threaded part of the bolts..what a mess and I am very glad it's not like that anymore...

I build a moat with RTV around the stud and let the PB blaster pool in there..time and patience are needed ..maybe a week of sitting and during that time I tap around the offending area with a hammer ...also apply heat to the area near the stud(map gas)..anything to get the metal to expand a little..usually works for the toughest bolts IF the penetrant can get in....and in some cases, the "kano" product might work better, since the molecules are smaller then PB and will go deeper..if it makes a difference, who knows...

beck arnly or oem intake gaskets..

..I have had other priorities so I have done nothing to the block yet..final verdict will be up to the machine shop...I have never seen a cortec gasket of that color..might be old stock of 10-15 yrs old.. the type that would probably need re-torqueing...

over the yrs there has been a lot written about this subject..varying opinions along with how much money you want to spend..there is no one answer

fortunately my ea82 has no push rods..it might apply to an ea81, but I wouldn't know..

I may have found the problem , ...visually you would not notice anything unusual when changing out the HG because of the way the motor is postioned in the car, but at the top of the cylinder which only can be seen with a mirror has some corossion or pitting just "below" in the cyl. where the HG ring sits onto the block..a very , very small leak over a long period of time would case this and yet not show up as fouling the plug black in color which I checked occasionally...coincidently at the same time I had a very small leak from the rad so adding some coolant from time to time would have been normal for me...

..cortec white wrapped in fine clear cellophane was recommended to me be an engine re-builder and no re-torqueing needed..however, there is still the old stock design by cortec still being sold, so I would think re-torqueing would be needed..."rockauto" sends me both for the same motor which was easily straightened out by them, ...obviously felpro is easier to get and is also a good product for their line of HG only

I will look more closely at the block when it comes out and possibly have it dye tested for cracks..I never would put anything onto the gaskets like copper seal etc..no need to after one has seen the newer Cortec white colored HG's ..from a laymans perception ..."visually" and "feel" a better HG then felpro...

Good to know you went .020 and when the limit is .012

1986 spfi conversion 4x4 somewhat lifted...some might say replace with an EJ..I know, I know, but anyway this is the problem..this block has an amount of untold mileage with 2 or 3 head replacements on it ... headgasket sealing ring has clearly indented its shape into the block (especially #4cyl) and I would think that the block surface would have to be milled since we tried putting newly milled heads (CNC'ed) on the block to no avail...but is it really worth it ??..and would someone still get 50k out of the HG job, ...everything else with this car is excellent and could travel anywhere at anytime if it wasn't for the head leak..I realize I may have to junk-it, but there is an emotional tie to this car...driven Key West to the Artic circle to near Belize, east/west coast and Mexico several times, as well as being a daily driver for work..she don't look pretty but that is the way I like it...

Concerning the automatic sliding shoulder belt..does anybody know if the upper mounting holes (although hidden behind the cladding) would be still included in the subis for US production..here in Canada we never had the sliding belt..I would like to buy another loyale and install the seat belts taken from my '86.. or maybe better still, what yrs where the sliding shoulder belts used...

..I have used a weber on 2 ocassions ..no need for a pressure reg. if you are useing the "stock Carbed" fuel pump..better still get a new pump such as this..made in japan, direct fit all metal..

..its not that easy for the dealers the extract money for the idlers etc when SOA does not clearly support this procedure..it becomes a judgement call by the dealers and a game played out with the consumer...I have mentioned this before of going to 5-6 dealers to ask about what timing belt replacement items are a must do..no mention of idlers..next time if you are in a dealer or two....ask if they have some idlers on the shelf..I bet not...

Talk to the owner of this place..you won't be jerked around.. http://www.ssisubaruspecialists.com/ an independent subaru only place..they do it all...