Petersubaru

will do ..thanks

Glad you stepped in..to upgrade that stock wireing to be on the safe side ..does one just add another wire to what is already there or just replace with a single heavier gauge wire..

..as long as you don't install items to "draw" more amps "useing" stock wireing switches etc,..your good to go... this applies to any vehicle, new or old..

.. my experience with rockauto as been mostly excellent..50+ times with 2 misses..there service department has always been top notch..and they have even called my place 3 times to make sure that all is good...who knows for sure, but, looks to me that a ball joint was exchanged by someone who purchased with the intent to bring back a cheepo joint in place of the much more expensive joint..had this happen to me with a loyale HG...my daughters lincoln ball joint is $150 a side ...cheapo is $40....box is returned and sent to a different location and nobody knows the difference..

I hope you didn't pay to much for these ball joints ..."problem solver" joints are especially made to fit into an alloy type housing to avoid corrossion between the 2 metals... $15-$20 for TRW joints at your local parts place...

..over the last couple of days I believe my problem is more related to a sloppy regulator and a problem with the ECU by not providing enough voltage to the "idle control valve"... if I had a carbed vehicle, bumping up the idle would be a good simple solution..but this is a FI conversion and the idle is already set at 900rpm (150 above stock setting)...overall I am very happy to have known about this alt conversion because the car has AC and upgraded cooling fans and is great for idleing over rocky terrain..but all is not perfect..if I had to do this again I would probably buy a new alt. rather then rebuilt/reman...my observations of this morning are thus..the voltage regulator works but is sluggish to change fast enough to maintain adjustment..when cold the voltage is rock steady at 14V and will increase as load is provided..once the alt gets hot, voltage drops to 13.6V by the time the engine is warmed up..all in all very respectable, but when loaded up it will drop closer to 13V ... I will not see 14v+ again until the next day when it is cold..( it was only yesterday that I became aware that remanf. alt do not have new regulators installed..if the old one works within their sloppy specs, the rebuilders use it or replace it with a newer inferior part) ...the "idle control valve" gets under 12V, and is unable to maintain steady voltage to control a steady idle once the electrical system is placed under a heavy demand of amps..in other words the voltage to the idle control fluctuates ,even under the slightest load...same goes for my fuel pump..wire from the ECU to the fuel pump provides only 12.33V with engine running ..not enough when the system is placed under load..ran a wire with a new relay and used the ecu just as a trigger and now it works perfect...when I get around to it, I will exchange the ECU and see what happens..

..a higher amp alt gives you the ability for example to add on more accessories or to have your stock set-up being provided with 12+volts from the alternator rather then have the system under heavy load being helped out by the battery...however,you will burn wires, switches if you "increase" the amp draw on any stock device that may be on the vehicle without making changes first....for example putting in 100 watt head lights when stock is 45 watt..new wireing and relays will have to added..one of many reasons to have a 90+ amp alt..

...nothing extra added on..finally my orginal loyale alternator would not produce enough amps when needed and would stall the motor ..heater fan, headlights and then the brake light would kill the motor...installed my reman. maxima alt only to find out, it to, will bog down when the heater fans are on etc.. it works better then the old one since it does not stall out, but the rpms will drop 150 -200 depending on what is running..also along with the new alt is a new battery and ground wires from the body to the tranny and to the battery ground...also checking resistence between both battery posts and alternator to neg battery has only a difference of 0.3Volts...other places of checking resistence have only 0.02V...I am totally bewildered on this one...

has anybody installed a smaller pulley on there maxima alt. and would there be any benefits gained at idle by doing so, maybe with more amps being produced... also i have noticed on my friends 1 wire gm alt that the pulley is 65mm in diameter while the subaru is 72mm...

you would hear your lifters making a terrible banging sound if oil starvation was present..get a separate oil pressure gauge and attach it to your oil pump and determine from there... I use 5/20 in all my 4 vehicles and get 35psi @3000rpm in the hottest weather in the loyale..just came back from Big Bend Nat. Park (texas) with 105-109F..oil still looked clean at 6000mi with 1.5 qt added...

Battery was the problem..fairly new battery and although the weather has been warm the voltage was at 100%+ until last night when temps fell near freezing..the battery was near dead and will not hold the charge..

..once any load is placed on the system the fuel pump was only getting 12.2 v....2.5v less then the alternator..a large difference..I did find a weak connection,...repaired it ...so now the voltage is at about 13.3v..certainly better but the problem still remains the same ... so when I have the head lights, blicker light plus stop light on all at once... the pump will slow down and for a moment I can hear a high pitched noise...runs real smooth as long as no extra load is placed on the system...

found the problem...alternator putting out 14.6V and the fuel pump getting only 12.67V. without any other load on...bad connection along the wire somewhere..

a lack of sufficient grease or play or both will cause the cv axle to knock under acceleration on the straight away..you could add some grease useing the needle attached to a grease gun...

..the rpm set at 850-900..voltage at 14.5+..

newer battery and nissan alternator since the FI conversion on my EA82..I have recently noticed that when the signal blicker is on, the constant humming of the fuel pump becomes wavy (sound of pump increases and decreases) plus the rpm drops slightly and the car gets a little more shakey...

I have one for sale ..PM me if you are interested...

..the wheels are 13"..I have 3 at home looking for another one ..very difficult to find that 4th wheel..

...I had vibration the first time I did this job...the axle nut was't tightened enough..my torque wrench lied to me...

..I will check this out.. the intake, block and heads are a combination of 4 engines with no way of knowing how many times each mating surface has been milled...

..makes sense..soft material for one side to dig in a little deeper..I was just about to order some new gaskets before reading this...

..I did go back to the machine shop and the intake runner is perfectly flat with no twist.. the problem is with the intake side of the head and the way it was placed in the cnc machine..can't do anything now since everything is bolted up..no hand sanding here since we are only talking about a few thousands,..but just large enough not to seal completely..

doing another FI conversion here... HG and intake surface of the heads plus both ends of the Intake runner were all milled...for whatever reason, now the intake does not sit perfectly flat on the head with a "slight rock" to it... makes sealing up the intake to the head impossible even with subaru gaskets...(very, very small amount of coolant leaking into the inside )..I thought about doubling up on the gaskets or useing the permatex product "the right stuff" , but don't I know from experience how well this will hold up being near atomized gas flowing thru the runner...any ideas..

a follow-up ...the coolant tracer dye was eventually bought and the leak was found to be "only inside" at the base of the TB..very small leak on the drivers side and fouling up those 2 plugs..at first you would think something else is the problem like a HG needed etc and although a new rubber TB base seal was initially installed only added to the confusion..apon inspection and for whatever reason the whole intake unit is twisted and .010 had to be machined off where it meets the cly. head, ... also decided to close off the coolant passage to the TB rather then resurface (to expensive)... all is good...

... the plugs would get real dark if you are trying to start without fireing up,. so fuel probably getting to them... could also be something like the ignition switch gone bad...let me know what happens..