Petersubaru

..if the above implication is correct, I can't say..but it certainly has been "allwheels...." postion for a long time now that the so-called "fix" was in name only..thus the reason to carry their own house brand gaskets..certainly a better way from a business perspective on being able to guarantee gasket replacements

thanks GD for pointing that out concerning the "bracket"..that changes for the better can be made..as mentioned in the video, the bracket was updated in 2000 and I think now also "back speced" http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_21/engine/camshaft_and_timing_belt/illustration_2/

.. http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-repair-seattle-timing-belt-idlers-explained/ ..enjoy..

..A little more new HG info @.. http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-change/

for those who are interested..http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-changed-there-head-gasket-for-the-2010-25l/

on my '86 4wdr...GM or Penzoil "syncromesh oil" ..similar to VW's 80w gear oil.. running this oil for a few yrs now ..shifts better in 2010 then when it first came from the factory

I didn't want to go with the OEM/Bosch for my 01 OB since it lasted only 42Kmi and the subaru dealer wanted 3-4 times more then the Napa/Bosch sensor ..the Napa version which looked identical has been working perfect for well over 60Kmi now the OB passes our emission testing with ease..Denso makes the rear O2

..both my '86 vw and '86 subi will do as your truck does

I hear what you are saying and it all makes sense..but, is there any possibility, that with a larger cooling system, you could have more consistent coolant temps and not as much temp recycling within the "normal" temp range of 175-205..thus bringing about less expansion and contraction of the head..in an age where cost cutting is across the board, you would think that other auto manuf. would have smaller cooling systems and yet they don't...the rad sizes just got me thinking, that's all..subi 2.5 turbo 7.6qts..subi 3L 8.4qts as oppossed to our families 3L lincoln 11.2qts...freinds jetta 2.5 10qts..even my old '86 diesel has a larger all aluminum rad..perhaps the larger rads are for cars with higher top end speeds

.. the newer gauges don't show moderate temp changes ..for example if your coolant was 20deg hotter from normal, you still would not notice it

...Is it possible that the subi cooling system is under sized to maintain headgasket integrity..the reason I am asking is because I had a visit from a friend who showed me his 2007 Jetta and somehow the topic of discussion moved over to HG failure concerning subarus..it was pointed out to me that the 2.5L jetta motor had a much larger cooling system...10qts vs 6.7qts for the subi and the jetta rad was slightly larger when comparing the LxW...but what surprised me the most was that vw rad is almost twice as thick...

At 45Kmi the O2 had to be changed in my car..a little early I know, but it was throwing a code..shortly after that replacement, an emission test was done which definitely showed a huge improvement..consider it as part of a tune-up

..tire-easy.ca or tire-easy.com

x

..I have a hard time understanding how a smaller filter is going to have more dirt in it, since that smaller filter was originally designed or re-designed for its application..newer cars simply do not pollute the oil as cars of yester-yr...my'01 OB is not a carbed model car so bigger is not better so long as I stay within the manuf. specs ...even "Blackstone" has repeatedly said the filter I am useing ( a very small nippon "gray", H2.5"xOD2.75") useing dino oil is doing its job better then the averages he uses..even with extended drain intervals (but not beyond the manuf. recomm.)..generally speaking with the correct 5/30 or thinner even when it is cold and thick, the oil is still designed to go thru the filter media and Not use the by-pass unless someone has strayed far off the rec. specs

..Interesting read..you may too ask them..http://allwheeldriveauto.com/ or http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/

I know in my case that by increasing the octane from 87 too 89 did away with any unusual symptoms...thus showing me that the front O2 sensor needed replacement...they do slowly wear out sooner or later..in my case 64Kmi..at times this item should be included in a tune-up...

call the repair shop that did the head job..maybe it is there policy to send out the heads for milling ..plus the name of the shop that did it

...if it is correct..your friend has not noticed any fluid loss..and 2 mechanics have made statements without showing any evidence ...I would keep away..hopefully you can find someone else who can give you an honest opinion or the understanding to monitor a potential problem ..if there is one ??

Curious here..just how many miles are on this vehicle

when I needed a quick fix the Non OE "out of box" over heated..useing one of those digital temp sensor guns showed the head very hot, with both fans running, while the coolant hose going to the t-stat was cold

....should the "tensioner" also be included in this exchange or wait until the next belt change 60k from now

sounds like the same problem the previous owner of my car had...45kmi..2 complete brake jobs with subaru and rotors turned..another job with someone else..it too turned sour..and then I bought the car from a used car dealer with Yet again new napa pads(4th time)..the last set of pads were so poooor in stopping..I am going to blame it on poor workmanship..just maybe in your case it was also...

hopefully I can wait long enough for other problems to develope that can be done together when replacing a torn cv boot..in the mean time I will get another boot and cut it, end to end, then clean up the torn boot, add more grease, wrap the new boot with the cut side 180deg from the torn side and use 4-6 plastic tie straps for fastening and then seal the cut side useing black rtv ..good to go after drying..if I here it "click,click" after 1 or 2 yrs then I will deal with it before it breaks..I don't want it to break just when I am trying to get out of the way of a transport truck

..the ex. given for an '86 carbed has the "bushing" only on the bottom while the top is a "ball bearing" ..if memory serves me here, I believe the bearing is the same one or size used as a "pilot bearing" when re-doing the clutch..Napa has other bushing sizes available if needed...at least several yrs ago they did...