Petersubaru

Sorry, that I did not clarify, both cars for comparison are the 2.5L and automatic...also leads me to wonder if subaru could have dropped the rpm some years ago for better fuel comsumption and simply chose not too ??

I recently drove the 2010 OB and @ 60mph the RPM is 1700..while on my '01 OB the same speed reg. 2500rpm..how is it that the rpm can be dropped by 800 and not have the motor "lug"..also I have heard that the fuel consumption has improved ..and if so...is it because of the transmission or the lowering of the rpm..

..maybe your mechanic meant to remove the valve cover and put in new plug "wells" along with new spark plugs ( normally these leak at your cars age) and new valve cover gaskets..but still, 2.5 hrs is high...1.25hr max for a pro..plugs only under 1/2 an hr with no problem

Did you try discussing this with 2 or 3 subi dealers in your area since you will not be doing this job yourself...time will tell when you get there on how much it will cost...anywhere from a new timing belt $50 to the "sky is the limit"

..maybe I will put this up for sale

winter or not I don't think it matters all that much...several yrs ago I pulled lesser weight then that on two occassions across the country to florida and another time to northern BC...it was recommended to me to change out the tranny fluid completely (15qts used in the process) and Do not use the OD gear..(tranny oil is very sensitive to heat and even a tranny cooler is not a guarantee)..the condition of your rad to cool the oil would be more important to check and plus a proper functioning thermostat..a sluggish thermostat is not what you want here..it will just make your rad fan work overtime..

I am trying to avoid finding out myself...would a Distributor from a 1986 ea82 turbo work in a car with a carburetor..the 2 extra wires going to the knock sensor obviously can't be connected..if just hooking up the 2 other wires to the coil,.. would it then work...the dist. is near new with no play in the shaft and I would hate to just throw it away if it was not suitable for the carb

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_200408/ai_n9453107/?tag=content;col1 and another good site is Valvoline oil..you can download the PDF for more info

the dealer here uses 85ft lbs and recheck after 200mi or so..especially for alloy wheels

all of the above is certainly recommended..but in my case to get rid of the "tick", I had to also change out the "O" ring seal on the passenger side head which involves removing the head, etc..(it is only on that side)..the motor oil has always been changed on a regular basis and I am stilling useing the original oil pump..a great article was written many yrs ago about this procedure..maybe a "search will help??

I still keep my old '86 for highway driving and long trips and to me it is near bulletproof..however, it lacks power and I avoid the larger cities whenever possible..city driving cuts the fuel mileage in "half"..I do have A/C, but not working because some smaller bits and pieces can not be found or bought in my area, even thru the dealer

mis-fires can be caused from other items, not neccessarily from plugs or wires

yes

my car is also a 3AT, orig. from the factory..in 3 weeks I will have to make up my mind...off to the scrape or not...rust issues..but all works fine

First of all, thanks for taking an interest here..but I think I have this confusion figured out..I am slowly buying the neccessary parts to do the timeing belt exchange...I just wanted to make sure that I had the upgraded pulleys for my '01 outback 2.5..some venders make no mention of the interchangability of the pulleys for upgrading , while others will only sell the upgraded pulleys and have considered the old part #'s as redundant...so as far as I understand, all 3 pulleys (2 smooth, 1 cogged plus 1 new bolt) from a 2005 2.5 Turbo will fit my car

sorry ..and yes, timing belts..on the 2004+ OB's have have a non-turbo and a turbo version of the cogged pulley..of course the turbo is more expensive, but I don't know why...there is no mention if the turbo toothed wheel has double bearings

for the outback 2000+..would anybody know if the pulley idler with "teeth" are the same size etc when comparing visually between the N/A and turbo cogged idler

I don't have air tools , but the air ratchet makes it so much easier and I believe safer when turning the nuts on the spring compressor..this way you can keep an arms length away... when you are able to remove the spring completely off the perch just lay it down gently..I got my compressors at harborfreight, real cheap, and I have used them also on my vanagon syncro fronts which have stronger heavier springs with no problem ..with your experience you should have no issues..just work safely

2 good and strong spring compressors ..tighten down the springs evenly as needed ( an air rachet would help )...mark with a pen the orientation of each part...most importantly never have your "head" in the way of those springs ..just in case one of those compressors let loose

I like those...but what is "CR"..thanks

my experience setting up my old volvo or vw ...2th larger then spec would make a difference...in my case I have to check the gaps when the motor is "hot" while my friends chevy has to be checked when the motor is "cold"

..gas can start to flood out of the carb ...some time ago in the very hot desert it happened to me, .. the mechanic cut the hose going to the carbon canister and put a screw into it...2 weeks ago it happened again..the problem was related to the canister simply being to old to allow anymore fumes..it is all plugged up

those rubber pieces along the fender lip don't work very well and it only takes a small stone chip for that rust to develope..myself, I took the rubber pieces off just because it is easier to see if anything unwanted is taking place there ..this design is subarus way of cutting costs..other countries even for that year had the full one piece molding covering the entire rear fender and also the front fender

..just this afternoon I got the part # but still not easy to get cheaply...I also have the part # for gm ...they quoted $40.80...I guess it explains why no one uses the stuff..on one of the online gm stores it is about $17

Does anybody know where the recommended caliper pin lube called "Niglube" can be Purchased..I have used all the other alternatives, (sli-lube, crc, permatex, even a very thin grease for cv joints, etc)..my experience with the "sliders" are that they seize up or become very difficult to slide back and forth...when initially installing the pins all seems good with plenty of free movement, but re-checking after 2 days the sliders become very difficult to remove (I have done this inspection 5 times already)...they simply "hydro-lock" , even with barely useing any grease...the pin bores are machined with tighter tolerances then previous much older cars...a friend of mine at the local brake shop said that they are having problems with returning customers, those people with brake systems that have caliper pins with the rubber tips attached to the pin...be it ford ,subi, gm etc.. it does not matter...a good silicone brake lube is not the answer for long term usage..I simply don't like the "browning" to occur of the inside of my discs